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Borgeson & Caster

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Old 06-25-2018, 01:15 PM
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lonebull
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Default Borgeson & Caster

I did the Borgeson power steering swap several years ago. Since then I have read several opinions on changing the caster a little during alignment. Was there ever any resolution/consensus on this issue? It's time for an alignment & I wanted to take this into consideration. I have a '78 350/auto. Thank you. lonebull
Old 06-25-2018, 02:26 PM
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427Hotrod
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Dial in all you can. Stock upper arms will only allow so much anyway. I installed aftermarket ones to allow 6+ and it drives great. Even better road feel than it has now. Slightly heavier but still good.

Jim.
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Old 06-25-2018, 02:45 PM
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Bloodzone
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Borgeson recommends adding caster when using their gearbox. There is a way to change the hole positions in the upper arms to get more caster from the stock setup. Hopefully some will jump in that knows more about this.
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Old 06-26-2018, 05:41 AM
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terrys6t8roadster
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All C3s are different when it comes to the caster setting with the Borg steer gear. Just have your alignment shop put as much caster in as possible, if it still likes to wander then you might need aftermarket a-arms like 427hotrod mentioned. T
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Old 06-26-2018, 11:07 PM
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Charliebates
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Originally Posted by lonebull
I did the Borgeson power steering swap several years ago. Since then I have read several opinions on changing the caster a little during alignment. Was there ever any resolution/consensus on this issue? It's time for an alignment & I wanted to take this into consideration. I have a '78 350/auto. Thank you. lonebull
I also installed the Borgeson power steering in my Berlina (1982) and I get a hard steer spot as I turn the steering wheel a few degrees to the left and only to the left.
Borgeson says to use a 1:1 pulley ratio but the engine pulley is already a half inch larger diameter.
I would appreciate any suggestions to correct this.
Thanks Johnny
Old 06-27-2018, 12:46 AM
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terrys6t8roadster
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Originally Posted by Charliebates
I also installed the Borgeson power steering in my Berlina (1982) and I get a hard steer spot as I turn the steering wheel a few degrees to the left and only to the left.
Borgeson says to use a 1:1 pulley ratio but the engine pulley is already a half inch larger diameter.
I would appreciate any suggestions to correct this.
Thanks Johnny
Johnny when we purchase our Borg conversions I was led to believe that we are getting a used reconditioned gear box from a particular Jeep model and maybe be yours just might have a defect. Nice ride. T
Old 06-27-2018, 08:31 AM
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njsting76
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You might want to check if your gear box is centered when the wheels are straight. Before connecting up the arm, I noticed that when the steering arm was straight, meaning centered between full turn right and full turn left, that the gears where tighter in the middle when slightly turning it to the right and slightly turning it to the left from center. Just something i noticed. It would makes sense, that the gears would be tighter when driving straight, less play and vibration.
Old 06-28-2018, 12:04 PM
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MelWff
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You dont have to change the complete A arm, They make offset control arm shafts.
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...title=FS-07-OS
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Old 06-28-2018, 12:35 PM
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ignatz
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Somebody want to explain how Borgeson and caster are related? They sound like separate subjects to me!

Last edited by ignatz; 06-28-2018 at 12:59 PM.
Old 06-29-2018, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
You dont have to change the complete A arm, They make offset control arm shafts.
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...title=FS-07-OS
Those might help with caster is if allows you to get more shims to kick out one end..but they really help with camber. Slotting the bolt holes on stock arms allows you to dial in a lot more caster by sliding the arm rearward.

JIM
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Old 06-30-2018, 07:00 PM
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macka75
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
Those might help with caster is if allows you to get more shims to kick out one end..but they really help with camber. Slotting the bolt holes on stock arms allows you to dial in a lot more caster by sliding the arm rearward.

JIM
anybody used these Van Steel shafts
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Old 06-30-2018, 10:02 PM
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'75
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Those shafts are available from your local parts store, Moog problem solvers. I am using them with the holes slotted 1/4" and slid to the rear like 427 said.

Moog K6104
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Old 07-01-2018, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
Those might help with caster is if allows you to get more shims to kick out one end..but they really help with camber. Slotting the bolt holes on stock arms allows you to dial in a lot more caster by sliding the arm rearward.

JIM

I agree
Slotting the holes is what I did,there is a write up on the forum about how to do this.
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Old 08-13-2018, 03:59 AM
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I took the GM leak-prone ram-assist PS components out of my 78C3 a few years back, was driving it in manual steering mode, it wasn't easy, but once the car was rolling it was ok, parallel parking was a monster, though. So I finally stepped up to the Borgeson conversion. Just my opinion, the power assist is just a tad too much. Noticed that the GM Saginaw pump is categorized as 1200psi, Was wondering if I swapped out the pump to a 850psi pump, which is for the Ford Mustang II R&P, how that would work? less power assist? any detrimental affects on the Borgeson box hydraulics? Could the same effect be accomplished by changing out the PS pump regulator spring? or maybe, there's a 1000psi spring that's a happy compromise between the 2. It actually might be easier to swap out the spring than the pump.


anybody ever experiment with that?
Old 08-13-2018, 06:24 AM
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Is there a chart that shows shim vs caster? Ie, what effect a certain size shim has on the caster angle?
Just wondering what effect of removing a shim from the front and adding it to the rear would have.
Old 08-13-2018, 08:01 AM
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txfatboy1
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Originally Posted by Mitty
Is there a chart that shows shim vs caster? Ie, what effect a certain size shim has on the caster angle?
Just wondering what effect of removing a shim from the front and adding it to the rear would have.
IIRC, removing one 1/8 inch shim from the front control control arm bolt changes the caster aprox. one half to three quarters of a degree positive. Installing that same 1/8 inch shim to the rear bolt gets you another one half to three quarters of a degree.... keeping in mind that the only way to know how much would be to hook up proper alignment measuring equipment.
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Old 08-13-2018, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by rpoL98
Was wondering if I swapped out the pump to a 850psi pump, which is for the Ford Mustang II R&P, how that would work? less power assist? any detrimental affects on the Borgeson box hydraulics? Could the same effect be accomplished by changing out the PS pump regulator spring? or maybe, there's a 1000psi spring that's a happy compromise between the 2. It actually might be easier to swap out the spring than the pump.


anybody ever experiment with that?
There are a number of options that could work. First rear this.
https://www.turnone-steering.com/blo...houldnt-be-cut
Here is a kit that most people try first.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...9001/overview/

The C3 PS pump should already be in the ~ 900PSI range so I would try this first.

https://www.turnone-steering.com/col...low-restrictor
This is what it looks like side by side. The one on the right is the factory unit, the one on the left is the turn one flow restrictor.

I used this the help reduce the over assisted Flaming River R&P using the factory Power Steering Pump. This should also help your situation.

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Old 08-13-2018, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by cagotzmann
There are a number of options that could work. First rear this.
https://www.turnone-steering.com/blo...houldnt-be-cut
Here is a kit that most people try first.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...9001/overview/

The C3 PS pump should already be in the ~ 900PSI range so I would try this first.

https://www.turnone-steering.com/col...low-restrictor
This is what it looks like side by side. The one on the right is the factory unit, the one on the left is the turn one flow restrictor.

I used this the help reduce the over assisted Flaming River R&P using the factory Power Steering Pump. This should also help your situation.

CAGotzmann:
thanks for the info. the flow restrictors looks like the right way to work at this. order placed with Turn One.

Last edited by rpoL98; 08-14-2018 at 03:30 AM.
Old 08-13-2018, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by txfatboy1
IIRC, removing one 1/8 inch shim from the front control control arm bolt changes the caster aprox. one half to three quarters of a degree positive. Installing that same 1/8 inch shim to the rear bolt gets you another one half to three quarters of a degree.... keeping in mind that the only way to know how much would be to hook up proper alignment measuring equipment.
So moving that 1/8th shim front to back could see you 1.5deg extra positive caster. think ill have a look to see if I can move a measurable amount on both sides, only trouble is i've no idea if they're the same at the moment.

So what limits the max caster on the standard arms?
Old 08-14-2018, 12:32 AM
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txfatboy1
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Originally Posted by Mitty
So moving that 1/8th shim front to back could see you 1.5deg extra positive caster. think ill have a look to see if I can move a measurable amount on both sides, only trouble is i've no idea if they're the same at the moment.

So what limits the max caster on the standard arms?
Usually the camber setting. One way or another, you will run out of shims to remove from one of the shim bolts. Your camber adjustment has higher priority over caster if tire wear is a concern. So, you get as much caster that the suspension will allow and still maintain a tolerable camber setting.
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