Throw Out Bearing
08-07-2018, 09:39 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Throw Out Bearing
The throw out bearing is staring to make noise so I figure it's time for a new one, Clutch and pressure plate too. My question is what's a good replacement with a little upgrade in performance.? I have a 69 L46. Thanks Frank
08-08-2018, 05:48 AM
#2
Dementer sole survivor
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I have a Mcleod that I like (but need to upgrade) from Summit. Go to the McLeod website and they explain the differences and the HP ratings that summit sometimes doesnt post. The clutch is easy to depress and has good gripping power. I ended up with a 300 hp clutch in my 365HP car. I had it slip a few times under hard acceleration but it works pretty good for being the wrong rating. I will upgrade this winter and stick with McLeod, I llike it that much
08-08-2018, 09:48 AM
#4
Race Director
I use SPEC clutches and flywheels myself. I get the flywheel and clutch together and they have been balanced to higher specs than 'Detroit specs'. They also have numerous types of clutch discs from original design to Kevlar.
***EDIT***
I am sure you are also going to replace the pilot bushing which needs to be a NON MAGNETIC bronze type.
AND I also verify that the bore concentricity of the bellhousing is within specs also.
I also check the thrust being end play. I have run into many that the thrust bearing was about wiped out or wiped out which means the engine needs to be rebuilt because the crankshaft is moving way to much front to rear. I had one engine that was so worn out that the counter weights-of the crankshaft where beginning to swipe against the main caps.
And what causes this is people keeping the clutch pedal pressed in while sitting at stop lights and the transmission is still in gear. I know people do this and they may not have a problem. But if you stop and think about it. Every time you press on the clutch pedal...you apply pressure to the throw-out bearing to the pressure plate which is forcing the crankshaft forward and pushing it against your thrust bearing.
Hopefully you do not have any issues...because the tolerances for the thrust bearing are rather tight.
DUB
***EDIT***
I am sure you are also going to replace the pilot bushing which needs to be a NON MAGNETIC bronze type.
AND I also verify that the bore concentricity of the bellhousing is within specs also.
I also check the thrust being end play. I have run into many that the thrust bearing was about wiped out or wiped out which means the engine needs to be rebuilt because the crankshaft is moving way to much front to rear. I had one engine that was so worn out that the counter weights-of the crankshaft where beginning to swipe against the main caps.
And what causes this is people keeping the clutch pedal pressed in while sitting at stop lights and the transmission is still in gear. I know people do this and they may not have a problem. But if you stop and think about it. Every time you press on the clutch pedal...you apply pressure to the throw-out bearing to the pressure plate which is forcing the crankshaft forward and pushing it against your thrust bearing.
Hopefully you do not have any issues...because the tolerances for the thrust bearing are rather tight.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 08-08-2018 at 10:01 AM.
08-08-2018, 01:11 PM
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
I use SPEC clutches and flywheels myself. I get the flywheel and clutch together and they have been balanced to higher specs than 'Detroit specs'. They also have numerous types of clutch discs from original design to Kevlar.
***EDIT***
I am sure you are also going to replace the pilot bushing which needs to be a NON MAGNETIC bronze type.
AND I also verify that the bore concentricity of the bellhousing is within specs also.
I also check the thrust being end play. I have run into many that the thrust bearing was about wiped out or wiped out which means the engine needs to be rebuilt because the crankshaft is moving way to much front to rear. I had one engine that was so worn out that the counter weights-of the crankshaft where beginning to swipe against the main caps.
And what causes this is people keeping the clutch pedal pressed in while sitting at stop lights and the transmission is still in gear. I know people do this and they may not have a problem. But if you stop and think about it. Every time you press on the clutch pedal...you apply pressure to the throw-out bearing to the pressure plate which is forcing the crankshaft forward and pushing it against your thrust bearing.
Hopefully you do not have any issues...because the tolerances for the thrust bearing are rather tight.
DUB
***EDIT***
I am sure you are also going to replace the pilot bushing which needs to be a NON MAGNETIC bronze type.
AND I also verify that the bore concentricity of the bellhousing is within specs also.
I also check the thrust being end play. I have run into many that the thrust bearing was about wiped out or wiped out which means the engine needs to be rebuilt because the crankshaft is moving way to much front to rear. I had one engine that was so worn out that the counter weights-of the crankshaft where beginning to swipe against the main caps.
And what causes this is people keeping the clutch pedal pressed in while sitting at stop lights and the transmission is still in gear. I know people do this and they may not have a problem. But if you stop and think about it. Every time you press on the clutch pedal...you apply pressure to the throw-out bearing to the pressure plate which is forcing the crankshaft forward and pushing it against your thrust bearing.
Hopefully you do not have any issues...because the tolerances for the thrust bearing are rather tight.
DUB
08-14-2018, 03:24 AM
#6
Drifting
Make sure that you aren't riding the clutch and that you have a little free play before the clutch engages. Throw out bearings normally last well beyond the life of the clutch if adjusted correctly and the clutch isn't ridden.
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