KNOT-HEAD

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C02...w?usp=drivesdk

KNOT-HEAD

Open the URL below to view video of the new 396/485hp crate engine being timed at the mechanic shop.

KNOT-HEAD

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C02PjyaGYR7OFmIfUQ_h3vRVv-g4Ii2Q/view?usp=drivesdk

KNOT-HEAD

Thanks,
Yes, they finally got the correct universal joint and installed it. Amazing how a $20 part can hold a car at the shop for three weeks. All they had to do is measure it instead of just ordering stock Corvette universal joints.
I had a guy replace the rear leaf springs. He is the one that broke the ear off the differential guard. I'm not sure if he installed the leaf spring spacer on the top of the springs properly. It's still at the mechanic shop and they are going to check the "shimmy" out.
I attached a video of the mechanics timing the new 396/485hp engine.

KNOT-HEAD

KNOT-HEAD

I just checked with the mechanic shop at 2:30 pm central time. The engine is dieseling and they can't figure out why. They have checked timing but that did not show any results. They are supposed to get on the phone with JEGS to help resolve the problem... Any suggestions?

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DAD111

Just me - Sounded like the idle is set to high on the video - most likely the timing is too advanced

KNOT-HEAD

They were just beginning to adjust the timing. I wanted to get a video for the "then & now" comparison.

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cv67

x2 get the timing on the money, adjust carb if necessary including idle rpm it shouldnt diesel. This stuff is par for the course with new builds nothing to get concerned about.

KNOT-HEAD

Thanks,
I spoke to the mechanic this morning. They had already contacted JEGS for advice on how to stop the "dieseling". JEGS told the mechanic shop, they had installed the incorrect spark plugs for that engine. They are swapping them out this morning. Hopefully that will solve the problem.

KNOT-HEAD

pauldana

KNOT-HEAD

Thanks,
I just got off the phone with them. They told me they had everything worked out and I "MAY" be able to pick up the car before 5:00 pm today. There are still some bugs that have to be worked out. They can't get a temperature reading on the existing gauge and can't get a pressure reading on the oil pressure gauge. I told them to go "old school" and mount a temporary oil pressure and temperature gauge on the dash board with Velcro or a window suction cup. The cork valve gasket is leaking. They are going to get with JEGS and have them foot the bill for changing the cork to rubber gaskets. I will have a small leak but that can be cleaned up and corrected once the new gaskets come in. I have some nice heavy aluminum covers but I don't want to take a chance of voiding the warranty. I will swap them out down the road. I will keep a close eye on everything until they get it back and fine tune any hiccups I find. I will keep everyone updated on the test drive. Wish me luck and I can't thank everyone enough for all the support you have given me through all my screw ups.

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pauldana

The Temperature and oil pressure gauges are "old school" .. They are just mounted in your dash... it would be cheaper for a COMPETENT mechanic to fix the old system rather than buy and install a new system,,, These gauges are an EASY fix..

KNOT-HEAD

Thanks,
The mechanic said there was a problem with the gauge cluster electrical components. The volt meter and fuel guage work but nothing else. I'm checking into one on this site to see if the complete cluster is still for sale.

I got the car back in time for our company "Trunk-R-Treat" benefit for the kids in the learning center. I'm not happy with the rpm/mph ratio. My friend that has the 76 gets much lower rpm/mph ratio than I do. He's one of those "smarty pants" people like you... He does all the calculations and lets me know what I should look for. Please give me your views.
396/485hp stroaker,
700r4 transmission
308 rear diferential
235-60-15 tires
26.1" height
He calculates:
1665.3@60
1942.9@70

I'm getting:
2700@70
2400@60
I drop about 200 rpm when I lock the differential.

See attachments for 396 Blueprint Dyno test data.

New Question:
The literature on the original advertisement called for a distributor with vacuum advance. I bought a DUI street/strip with vacuum advance and had it installed. When I picked up the car from the shop, it would diesel when I turned off the ignition. I returned the car back to the shop the next morning. They had already called JEGS about the problem. JEGS told them they had installed spark plugs that were too short and to disconnect the vacuum advance. I also told them what you said about the butterflies on the carb. Changing the plugs and adjusting the butterflies corrected the issue..... Thanks! I don't understand the reasoning behind disconnecting the vacuum advance..... Is that a good or bad thing to do. The engine seems to "hammer" at idle, when the it is first cranked. Once you reach 2nd gear (@1000 rpm) it smooth out. The mechanic also closed down the air jets on the carb a little to help eliminate the "dieseling". It seems to be running rich and I was thinking that is why it is "hammering" at low rpm's! What do you think?
All in all.... It's one hell of a ride... Thanks to all of you that helped pull my head out my a** and quit trying to cut cost. I still have some interior work (door panels and seats) and I would really like to be satisfied with the rpm/mph ratio too. Hopefully you and others can help me figure out what I should be satisfied with instead of just making comparisons with my friends 76.

KNOT-HEAD



Trunk-R-Treat 2018 for the Learning Center kids

pauldana

Remove spark plugs, post pictures

KNOT-HEAD

What do you mean when you say "remove spark plugs, post pictures"?

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mobird

He means, remove some spark plugs, post some pictures of the spark plugs.

KNOT-HEAD

Thanks,
I dropped it back off at the mechanic shop yesterday. I will get them to pull a couple plugs and take pictures. I'm just not happy with the engine scenario...
1. It was dieseling. They changed plugs and carb settings to stop the dieseling but that made it have a rough idle and slight hesitation on take off.
2. They rpm/mph is not even close to the readings my friend with the 76 gets. It just seems to me it is not shifting into 4th gear....but I may be wrong.

KNOT-HEAD

KNOT-HEAD

Attached is a picture of the rpm/mph comparison my friend with the 76 gets once he installed the 700r4 transmission. He was running the same rpm/mph I was when we both had the Turbo 400 transmission...3500 rpm (+/-) @ 70 mph (+/-).

KNOT-HEAD

The reading my friend with the 76 is getting once he changed from the Turbo 400 to the 700r4 transmission. We were both getting about 3500 rpm @70 mph with the three speed. I am only getting about 2500 rpm at 70 mph with the 700r4 on my 77 (396/485 hp).

DAD111

Looks to me that you are in 4th gear thats why the RPM's went down. Thats a good thing on the motor when you are running 70ish. Do you and your buddy have the same rear end gear ratio?

KNOT-HEAD

Thanks,
That's the problem. The picture of the tack and speedometer is that of my buddies... Not Mine. The mechanic shop is working on my car now. One thing is ti get the speedometer working again. I gave been using my GPS to gauge speed. At 70 mph I am turning approximately 2500 rpm where my buddy is turning 1900 at 75. We both turned about 3500 at 70 mph before we both installed the 700r4 transmission. I don't know why my rpm's are so much higher than his. I don't think mine is shifting into 4th gear but the mechanic shop tells me it is.... It just doesn't make since to me but a lot of things don't/. I have them going through everything again to see if they can figure out what is going on.

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DAD111

If your rear end gear is higher than his you will be pushing more RPM's than him. Like if you have a 3:55 and he has a 3:08. Get the letters off the bottom of the rear end - there is about a 1" space between mounts on the bottom that you can see the letters.