Help to determine possible horse power!
10-30-2018, 03:04 PM
#301
Burning Brakes
With od trans you need to modify your detent or order a kit from shift works to get the overdrive to work.
That is assuming you are using the stock set up. Is everything else working correctly as far as shift points etc?
That is assuming you are using the stock set up. Is everything else working correctly as far as shift points etc?
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KNOT-HEAD (10-31-2018)
10-30-2018, 03:15 PM
#302
Race Director
A. Your engine is NOT tuned properly...
B. Your auto trans is 1:1 in 3rd. Your manual transmission is 1:1 in 4th.... My C3 with 3.52??? turns 3500 approximately at 70mph... thus I have a 5 speed:-)
B. Your auto trans is 1:1 in 3rd. Your manual transmission is 1:1 in 4th.... My C3 with 3.52??? turns 3500 approximately at 70mph... thus I have a 5 speed:-)
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KNOT-HEAD (10-31-2018)
10-30-2018, 04:40 PM
#303
Racer
You can't feel how many times the tranny shifts? You should ar least be able to see the rpm's drop when it knocks into another gear if your tach is working.
Are your mechanics used to tuning carbs and distributors or are they laptop boys?
Are your mechanics used to tuning carbs and distributors or are they laptop boys?
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KNOT-HEAD (10-31-2018)
10-31-2018, 08:16 AM
#304
Racer
Thread Starter
I have the overdrive kit installed. It seems to work bu dropping the rpm's down about 200 when it is engaged. Everything else is stock. I don't think it is shifting right so I am having the shop check it out again.
KNOT-HEAD
10-31-2018, 08:23 AM
#305
Racer
Thread Starter
My 77 and my buddies 76 were both turning approximately 3500 @ 70 when we both had the Turbo 400. Now that we both have the 700r4 I thought we should both drop the same amount of rpm's at the same mph..... but that is not the case. I am getting the shop to check out everything ... including how it is tuned.
KNOT-HEAD
10-31-2018, 08:57 AM
#306
Racer
Thread Starter
That was the first thing I brought up to the shop. I did not see the rpm's drop or feel the shift at 4th. It seemed like it did not shift out of third, so I brought it back to them. The adjusted the cable on the transmission and I could feel the shift through the gears better and it did not drop the rpm's as much as it should have. If you have followed this thread, you know I have been plagued with making the wrong choice in mechanics. I thought this one would pull me out the hole but I am beginning to have my doubts.
The primary mechanic working on my car has a beefed up older car, but he is very cocky and gets offended when anyone contradicts him. The owner of the shop is great. I print out the suggestions all of you give me and give them to the owner. That has been a great help in getting the mechanic to change his way of thinking. Thanks to ALL of you. If need be, I will take the thing to another shop and have them check this shops work...just like I have done with four other mechanic shops. Sooner or later I will find an "old school" guy. I'm learning from all of you....JUST NOT QUICK ENOUGH! I also have my "diesel helicopter mechanic" buddy that has the 76. The problem with him is, he works out of town for long stretches. Once he gets back in town, I can have him take a look at the engine tuning. I have all the new tools and even concreted my carport so I will have better means to work on the car myself. I was hoping to have a good bench mark to work from but so far it's not working out.
KNOT-HEAD
10-31-2018, 11:24 AM
#307
Race Director
Try giving Bowtie Transmissions a call.
They are a well known and respected vendor who many have used on the forum.
Let them know what you are experiencing and they might be able to help you out.
I know that if the tv? cable and other things on the 700R4 are not set up correctly, you can cause instant major damage to the trans.
I wouldn't drive it any more than necessary until you find the issue and get everything set up properly.
I know nothing about auto transmissions other than you put them in drive, apply the gas, and you go.
Good luck.
They are a well known and respected vendor who many have used on the forum.
Let them know what you are experiencing and they might be able to help you out.
I know that if the tv? cable and other things on the 700R4 are not set up correctly, you can cause instant major damage to the trans.
I wouldn't drive it any more than necessary until you find the issue and get everything set up properly.
I know nothing about auto transmissions other than you put them in drive, apply the gas, and you go.
Good luck.
Last edited by OldCarBum; 10-31-2018 at 11:25 AM.
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KNOT-HEAD (10-31-2018)
10-31-2018, 11:25 AM
#308
Racer
So, as 76stroker pointed out, you do have the console detent that allows the shift lever to move far enough ahead to engage high hear, right?
Possibly you can ask at speed shops or local hot rodders who they take their car to for mechanic work.
Remember that you are no longer working with a stock motor and custom builds take some effort and time to get sorted out so they run right. Even after sorting out they may take occasional tweaking.
Possibly you can ask at speed shops or local hot rodders who they take their car to for mechanic work.
Remember that you are no longer working with a stock motor and custom builds take some effort and time to get sorted out so they run right. Even after sorting out they may take occasional tweaking.
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KNOT-HEAD (10-31-2018)
10-31-2018, 01:36 PM
#309
Racer
Thread Starter
Try giving Bowtie Transmissions a call.
They are a well known and respected vendor who many have used on the forum.
Let them know what you are experiencing and they might be able to help you out.
I know that if the tv? cable and other things on the 700R4 are not set up correctly, you can cause instant major damage to the trans.
I wouldn't drive it any more than necessary until you find the issue and get everything set up properly.
I know nothing about auto transmissions other than you put them in drive, apply the gas, and you go.
Good luck.
They are a well known and respected vendor who many have used on the forum.
Let them know what you are experiencing and they might be able to help you out.
I know that if the tv? cable and other things on the 700R4 are not set up correctly, you can cause instant major damage to the trans.
I wouldn't drive it any more than necessary until you find the issue and get everything set up properly.
I know nothing about auto transmissions other than you put them in drive, apply the gas, and you go.
Good luck.
I gave them a call. They have emailed me the test instructions and information for their patented T.V. cable. I have forwarded the email to the mechanic shop. Hopefully this will help solve the rpm/mph problem.
KNOT-HEAD
10-31-2018, 01:40 PM
#310
Racer
Thread Starter
So, as 76stroker pointed out, you do have the console detent that allows the shift lever to move far enough ahead to engage high hear, right?
Possibly you can ask at speed shops or local hot rodders who they take their car to for mechanic work.
Remember that you are no longer working with a stock motor and custom builds take some effort and time to get sorted out so they run right. Even after sorting out they may take occasional tweaking.
Possibly you can ask at speed shops or local hot rodders who they take their car to for mechanic work.
Remember that you are no longer working with a stock motor and custom builds take some effort and time to get sorted out so they run right. Even after sorting out they may take occasional tweaking.
I got in touch with Bowtie Overdrive as OldCarBum recommended. Hopefully the information they emailed to me will solve the rpm/mph problems.
KNOT-HEAD
11-01-2018, 08:32 AM
#311
Racer
Thread Starter
Pauldana,
I asked the mechanic shop again yesterday to pull a couple plugs, take pictures of the firing tips and send me the pictures. They have been short handed the last two days and have not worked on the car. I will keep after them.
I still have another unanswered question.... The 396/485 crate engine literature recommended installing a "vacuum advanced" distributor. I had a DUI street/strip installed. When the mechanic shop questioned JEGS about how to stop the engine from 'dieseling", they told them to change to a longer shank spark plug and disconnect the vacuum advance.
Please explain why they don't want the vacuum advance connected.
KNOT-HEAD
P.S.
The cocky, know it all mechanic that has been assigned to working on my car is resisting closing the gap on the carburetor butterfly valves, as you requested. I may have to wait until I get it home and do it myself (WITH YOUR GUIDANCE ...OF COARSE). He turned down the air jets on the carburetor and that stopped the "dieseling" but I think that is a big part of it being "not tuned properly"... like you mentioned earlier.
Does anyone know of a good tuneup man in the Baton Rouge area I can take this car to and GET IT WRIGHT? I need to learn how to do this myself, or I will never be content with this car. For now... I need good old school mechanic.
KNOT-HEAD
I asked the mechanic shop again yesterday to pull a couple plugs, take pictures of the firing tips and send me the pictures. They have been short handed the last two days and have not worked on the car. I will keep after them.
I still have another unanswered question.... The 396/485 crate engine literature recommended installing a "vacuum advanced" distributor. I had a DUI street/strip installed. When the mechanic shop questioned JEGS about how to stop the engine from 'dieseling", they told them to change to a longer shank spark plug and disconnect the vacuum advance.
Please explain why they don't want the vacuum advance connected.
KNOT-HEAD
P.S.
The cocky, know it all mechanic that has been assigned to working on my car is resisting closing the gap on the carburetor butterfly valves, as you requested. I may have to wait until I get it home and do it myself (WITH YOUR GUIDANCE ...OF COARSE). He turned down the air jets on the carburetor and that stopped the "dieseling" but I think that is a big part of it being "not tuned properly"... like you mentioned earlier.
Does anyone know of a good tuneup man in the Baton Rouge area I can take this car to and GET IT WRIGHT? I need to learn how to do this myself, or I will never be content with this car. For now... I need good old school mechanic.
KNOT-HEAD
11-01-2018, 05:25 PM
#312
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Apr 2001
Location: Was New Orleans but swam to Baton Rouge LA
Posts: 5,928
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Cruise-In IX Veteran
Pauldana,
I asked the mechanic shop again yesterday to pull a couple plugs, take pictures of the firing tips and send me the pictures. They have been short handed the last two days and have not worked on the car. I will keep after them.
I still have another unanswered question.... The 396/485 crate engine literature recommended installing a "vacuum advanced" distributor. I had a DUI street/strip installed. When the mechanic shop questioned JEGS about how to stop the engine from 'dieseling", they told them to change to a longer shank spark plug and disconnect the vacuum advance.
Please explain why they don't want the vacuum advance connected.
KNOT-HEAD
P.S.
The cocky, know it all mechanic that has been assigned to working on my car is resisting closing the gap on the carburetor butterfly valves, as you requested. I may have to wait until I get it home and do it myself (WITH YOUR GUIDANCE ...OF COARSE). He turned down the air jets on the carburetor and that stopped the "dieseling" but I think that is a big part of it being "not tuned properly"... like you mentioned earlier.
Does anyone know of a good tuneup man in the Baton Rouge area I can take this car to and GET IT WRIGHT? I need to learn how to do this myself, or I will never be content with this car. For now... I need good old school mechanic.
KNOT-HEAD
I asked the mechanic shop again yesterday to pull a couple plugs, take pictures of the firing tips and send me the pictures. They have been short handed the last two days and have not worked on the car. I will keep after them.
I still have another unanswered question.... The 396/485 crate engine literature recommended installing a "vacuum advanced" distributor. I had a DUI street/strip installed. When the mechanic shop questioned JEGS about how to stop the engine from 'dieseling", they told them to change to a longer shank spark plug and disconnect the vacuum advance.
Please explain why they don't want the vacuum advance connected.
KNOT-HEAD
P.S.
The cocky, know it all mechanic that has been assigned to working on my car is resisting closing the gap on the carburetor butterfly valves, as you requested. I may have to wait until I get it home and do it myself (WITH YOUR GUIDANCE ...OF COARSE). He turned down the air jets on the carburetor and that stopped the "dieseling" but I think that is a big part of it being "not tuned properly"... like you mentioned earlier.
Does anyone know of a good tuneup man in the Baton Rouge area I can take this car to and GET IT WRIGHT? I need to learn how to do this myself, or I will never be content with this car. For now... I need good old school mechanic.
KNOT-HEAD
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KNOT-HEAD (11-02-2018)
11-01-2018, 08:33 PM
#313
Race Director
Pauldana,
I asked the mechanic shop again yesterday to pull a couple plugs, take pictures of the firing tips and send me the pictures. They have been short handed the last two days and have not worked on the car. I will keep after them.
I still have another unanswered question.... The 396/485 crate engine literature recommended installing a "vacuum advanced" distributor. I had a DUI street/strip installed. When the mechanic shop questioned JEGS about how to stop the engine from 'dieseling", they told them to change to a longer shank spark plug and disconnect the vacuum advance.
Please explain why they don't want the vacuum advance connected.
KNOT-HEAD
P.S.
The cocky, know it all mechanic that has been assigned to working on my car is resisting closing the gap on the carburetor butterfly valves, as you requested. I may have to wait until I get it home and do it myself (WITH YOUR GUIDANCE ...OF COARSE). He turned down the air jets on the carburetor and that stopped the "dieseling" but I think that is a big part of it being "not tuned properly"... like you mentioned earlier.
Does anyone know of a good tuneup man in the Baton Rouge area I can take this car to and GET IT WRIGHT? I need to learn how to do this myself, or I will never be content with this car. For now... I need good old school mechanic.
KNOT-HEAD
I asked the mechanic shop again yesterday to pull a couple plugs, take pictures of the firing tips and send me the pictures. They have been short handed the last two days and have not worked on the car. I will keep after them.
I still have another unanswered question.... The 396/485 crate engine literature recommended installing a "vacuum advanced" distributor. I had a DUI street/strip installed. When the mechanic shop questioned JEGS about how to stop the engine from 'dieseling", they told them to change to a longer shank spark plug and disconnect the vacuum advance.
Please explain why they don't want the vacuum advance connected.
KNOT-HEAD
P.S.
The cocky, know it all mechanic that has been assigned to working on my car is resisting closing the gap on the carburetor butterfly valves, as you requested. I may have to wait until I get it home and do it myself (WITH YOUR GUIDANCE ...OF COARSE). He turned down the air jets on the carburetor and that stopped the "dieseling" but I think that is a big part of it being "not tuned properly"... like you mentioned earlier.
Does anyone know of a good tuneup man in the Baton Rouge area I can take this car to and GET IT WRIGHT? I need to learn how to do this myself, or I will never be content with this car. For now... I need good old school mechanic.
KNOT-HEAD
you need 2 things to run... gas and spark.... if the gas is cut off, it can not run or dieseling...no spark, no run... unless you have unburnt gas still entering the cylinders and that gas is a low grade gas/low octane, thus will diesel under high compression... engine not old enough for carbon deposits... or if the plugs are to hot and continue to detonate the gas with out spark but high heat, which i doubt. i defer to carb, timing, and general overall tuning.
Last edited by pauldana; 11-01-2018 at 08:34 PM.
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KNOT-HEAD (11-02-2018)
11-02-2018, 08:36 AM
#314
Racer
Thread Starter
you need 2 things to run... gas and spark.... if the gas is cut off, it can not run or dieseling...no spark, no run... unless you have unburnt gas still entering the cylinders and that gas is a low grade gas/low octane, thus will diesel under high compression... engine not old enough for carbon deposits... or if the plugs are to hot and continue to detonate the gas with out spark but high heat, which i doubt. i defer to carb, timing, and general overall tuning.
I picked up the car again yesterday evening. They said they had taken pictures of the plugs firing tips but I have not received them on an email yet. I think you nailed it again. I tried to adjust the idle yesterday evening before I left there shop but the idle screw (at idle and no A/C on) was not touching the idle adjustment cam. I know the mechanic turned the air mixture jets down to stop the dieseling instead of following your suggestions and reducing the gap in the butterflies. It idles very rough and also runs rough when accelerating. Once you get up to speed (40) and back off the accelerator, it purrs like a kitten! I LIKE THE PURR! I will try to adjust the carb myself this weekend. Hopefully I can get it right. I beleave you said earlier, to adjust the butterfly gap down to the point where a "pencil" will tightly fit between the butterfly blade and the carb housing. Is that correct? I will attach the pictures as soon as I get them.
KNOT-HEAD
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KNOT-HEAD (11-02-2018)
11-02-2018, 11:17 AM
#320
Race Director
Way way way rich...
ALSO!! do I see oil on the threads?!?!?!?!?!?
if so your rocker arm studs are not sealed, or your intake is not sealed correctly, you will litterly suck oil into the intake charge and have plugs that look like that,
if your "mechanics" are the ones to have installed the intake or rocker arm studs I would bet at this time they fucked up
edit,, closer look... yep, looks like oil.... until fixed, it will NEVER run right
You run ruff due to the fact the oil shorts out the spark,,, at 75 mph it will smooth out as the oil is in more of a mist state and running fast through the chamber
ALSO!! do I see oil on the threads?!?!?!?!?!?
if so your rocker arm studs are not sealed, or your intake is not sealed correctly, you will litterly suck oil into the intake charge and have plugs that look like that,
if your "mechanics" are the ones to have installed the intake or rocker arm studs I would bet at this time they fucked up
edit,, closer look... yep, looks like oil.... until fixed, it will NEVER run right
You run ruff due to the fact the oil shorts out the spark,,, at 75 mph it will smooth out as the oil is in more of a mist state and running fast through the chamber
Last edited by pauldana; 11-02-2018 at 12:27 PM.
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KNOT-HEAD (11-05-2018)