pauldana

You're funny:-).... yes, that is her, picture was shot last summer in Maldives for Beach Bunny clothing... She was a print add model for years, now she teaches High School, and models part time..

Dieseling .... yes, it is your carburetor adjustment most likely. I am not a great carb guy, but I can adjust them fairly well.. ..... your electric choke may be set to warm, or that is to say, it does not close all the way when warm... it takes 2 things to run spark and air/fuel, you can achieve the "spark" also vis high compression with bad low grade gas... always always run full premium gas in that car.
so if the butterfly are not shutting all the way, as they should, due to the chock holding them open, you will in-fact pull a fresh charge of A/F into the combustion chamber ....

KNOT-HEAD

Thanks,
They say you truly never appreciate the value of things until they are gone. This is very true. I for one always took my health for granted. Now at 68 (on 1/24/19) I truly miss what I physically once was. I also took my wife's health for granted. Now at 63 (1/26/19) she can't do all the things she always loved to do and it is taking a tole on the both of us. She is still very beautiful and not only in my eyes. One of our grand children walked up to her out of the blue last week and looked her in the eyes and told her how beautiful she was.

The thing that always has saved me in our relationship is (and this may seem cold) was her mother had tragically died in an apparent boat accident when she was ten years old. It had been suspected after her mothers divorce to her father, she had been purposely murdered by her current boy friend, while boat riding in one of the nearby lakes but they never could prove it wasn't an accident. This tragedy redirected my wife from being a child to the caregiver to her two brothers and father. She didn't have time to be beautiful. She didn't even attend her high school senior prom. She just had more important things to care for. Even now, she refuses to say she was ever good looking. She just says in an honest tone, I guess I was OK.

Again, continue to count your blessings and I know you do! When people ask me what I am going to to when I get home, my truthful answer is "I don't even know if I'm going to take another breath...let alone what i may do if and when I get home.

KNOT-HEAD

KNOT-HEAD

WHAT DO YOU MEAN...FUNNY? I'm serious as a sore throat. Those poo (they so poor, they can't afford an "r") little girls need cloths on their backs (fronts too). Damn, that's a bummer when you stop and think of it THAT WAY!!! If you message enough "revealing" pictures to me, I will be able to use them to sway the general public to do the Christian thing and give up some cloths.

I just got off the phone with Asylum. They are going to take a look at the car this after noon. They also brought something to my attention about 100% gasoline. They don't recommend using it because you find it at the non major oil company fast service grocery stores. They say the non ethanol fuel is a low grade premium blend and should be avoided. I have mainly been avoiding the minimum 10% ethanol premium 93 octane fuel for the no ethanol added premium 93 octane. They said the low grade 93 octane may be what is causing the problem. What do you think?

KNOT-HEAD

pauldana

pauldana

KNOT-HEAD

Thanks,
You nailed it again. It was a compilation of both issues. The non-ethanol fuel still has 93 octane but it is a low quality premium grade fuel. If you will notice the types of places that sell the fuel, is a non-major oil company station. The oil refiners have fuel that does not meet their specifications or they have a surplus they need to get rid of in order to make room for the new blend. They sell this fuel to jobbers that in turn store the fuel in large tanks until it can be shipped off. The South Louisiana Mississippi river bank is littered with these oil storage tank farms. They are building more every day. Fuel from any number of refiners both here and from over seas is stored in the same tank. You end up with a world blend of fuel. Some good, some bad. This is what is sold to the low end distributors so they can lower the price at their pumps. I have known this for years. My ex-father in-law was a lab technician for Exxon until he retired. Every batch of fuel must meet their regulated standers or it is sold of to jobbers.

The electric choke was not set correctly because it needs to be set when the engine is cold. The engine never had time to cool off while it was at Asylum, so it had not been adjusted. I will adjust it Saturday morning before I crank the engine.

I ran the tank near empty last knight and re-filled it with 93 octane Marathon fuel. It cranked and drove well to work plus did not diesel when I killed it. I did have to tap the accelerator too lower the rpm's before I turned off the ignition.


KNOT-HEAD

KNOT-HEAD

Thanks.
After I adjust the electric choke, I will let you know the outcome. I'm still driving it to work daily and have over 1k miles logged on now.

KNOT-HEAD

KNOT-HEAD

New issue!
I used my emergency flashers last night. They work well, but now my turn signals quit working. No blinker indication lights on the dash or front and rear of the car?????

KNOT-HEAD

DAD111

Check the fuse

KNOT-HEAD

Thanks,
The emergency flashers and turn signals are on different fuses? The problem is going to be getting my big head close enough to the fuse block to test the fuses....

KNOT-HEAD

DAD111

Yes they are - And i feel for ya, almost need to take the seat out to get to the fuse block. Stupid Chevy engineers

OldCarBum

I haven't done so, but if you look at your AIM or the wiring schematic they may show an illustration of the fuse block so you can locate the correct fuse location before you crawl up under the dash.
Disconnect the battery and pull the fuse for examination or run a continuity test across the fuse to see if it is blown.
If the fuse is good I would check the flasher unit itself.
I don't know if your year has one for both the turn signals and emergency flashers or if you have two flasher units, one for the emergency flashers and one for the turn signals.
Any time you work on the electrical system, disconnect the battery before you remove fuses or pull components to keep from shorting things or blowing other fuses.
Checking voltage or amperage during diagnosis is something different altogether.

KNOT-HEAD

Thanks,
Yup, It was the flasher. I think there a total of three different flashers.

KNOT-HEAD

KNOT-HEAD

Well you might know... I have another issue with the engine,
I noticed a metal to metal rattle coming from under the car while idling. When I looked to see what it was I noticed one of the exhaust pipe mounting clamps had come loose, so I brought it back to the shop to have them replace it. Once the car was on the lift, I looked around for more possible issues that may have been overlooked. I noticed there was a large fresh oil build up on the drivers side engine block and the same side of the transmission. It looked like it was coming from a leaky valve cover gasket but the shop had just replaced the stock cork gaskets with rubber because they thought the cork gaskets were leaking. I asked them to check out the leak once the car was off the lift. They did so and blamed it on the thin valve covers not sealing at the gasket properly because they only had four bolts holding the cover on and they would check it out better once the other parts they were waiting on to come in.

I brought the car home and let it cool off over night before I adjust the electric choke as Asylum recommended. Saturday morning I raised the hood and began adjusting the electric choke. As pauldana said... the choke flapper was open too much when the engine was cold. There was about 1/2" gap between the edge of the flapper and the rim of the carburetor. I adjusted the gap as recommended to about 1/32" gap and reinstalled the filter. Once I had that complete I started looking around the engine more closely and noticed an oil residue on "top" of both valve covers and inside both valve cover vent caps. I then checked the oil level in the engine. The oil level was right on the fill line as it should be. I remembered when I picked up the car two weeks ago after the shop changing the break in oil, the oil level on the stick was about 3/4 of a quart over filled.

Here is the big question..... The oil residue is caused by "blow back" from the crankcase! Would the oil level being 3/4 quart over filled cause this issue? I didn't think that little of an over fill would cause that problem but as usual.... I'M MOST PROBABLY WRONG! I'm still driving the car but will keep very close on the potential oil consumption as well as any additional leakage. I was even more concerned when I checked the radiator water level to see it was a gallon low on fluid as well as the reservoir was also empty.

What do you think?. Do I have more major problems or just a over zealous mechanic that did not allow the oil to settle in the oil pan before checking the level once the oil was added to the engine?

KNOT-HEAD

jackson

Is there a PCV system? If so, is PCV system properly plumbed? If not, what prevents any mist-fog from washing over motor?

Any possibility the motor has a problem and excessive blowby is a symptom?

Was the overfill enough to mist your motor? Maybe, Maybe Not.

Are thin, aftermarket valvecovers prone to leak? Yes. Is that what caused your oil-down? Maybe, Maybe Not.

Many very nice cast aluminum valve cover sets available for under a hundred $.

pauldana

1. yea, those thin china chrome valve coves are usually junk... but if you use Permatex "the right stuff" it won't leak any more....

2. yes, 3/4 over is to much and will cause increased "blow by"

3. as stated above, make sure you are running a NEW PCV valve and he proper one for the engine. it should be on the drives side.

4. the oil all over your engine is more likely from the cheap valve covers.

5. As it is a new engine, it is always wise to keep an eye on the oil, water and other fluids for a month or so...

6. these engines have a hard time getting a full water/antifreeze fill... and need to "burped" ....as a lot of air is trapped in different places... it is not uncommon for a bad/unknowledgeable mechanic to leave the air in the system and not properly purged the system of the air...

7. if you have a clean exhaust, not burning oil... then your good

OldCarBum

KNOT-HEAD

Thanks,
Pauldana, you amaze me. For an "old grouch, scrounge"... you are also a saint Anyone that has been physically forced to leave their loved ones (cars) behind in the blistering cold California winter, to travel too a strange, desolate, barren waste land (BoraBora) over the Christmas holidays, solely to assist his, tyrant of a wife to improve the quality of her workmanship by dusting the sand off poor unfortunate, apparently malnourished, some extremely young, possibly homeless, BIKINI MODELS too take the time to send a valued response to a pitiful, ignorant, needy, old, fat man in the deep swamp land of south Louisiana... can't be anything but a Saint. Someone needs to present your name to the Pope so your name can be listed with all the other saints. I can see it now.... St. Pauldana Catholic Church of Corvette Forum. Has a ring to it...doesn't it?

Now that all that waist of type is done with.... Thanks,

1. I can't change anything on the Blueprint stock crate short block without invalidating the warranty. I had asked the shop to contact JEGS and follow their recommendations to stop the oil leak.

2. My daddy always told me it was worse to overfill an engine with oil then run it a little low. But he was the guy that never changed the oil, just kept adding Quaker State HD 30w to the crankcase. He, my brother in law and I rebuilt the engine in our 55 Chevy, half ton, step side, pickup truck back in the late 60,s. We had a hell of a time pulling the head off the straight 6 cylinder engine. He and I even pulled it under the live oak tree in the back yard so we could hang a 1-1/2 ton com-a-long from one of it's limbs, in an attempt to break the head loose from the block. Luckily my brother in law came by to save the day. He used a small putty knife to remove some of the sludge buildup trapped in the valley of the head. Low and behold... there was so much of gunk built up on top of the head, we could not see there was one remaining head bolt left securing the head to the block. To my father and I's amazement, once my brother in law located and removed the head bold from the engine.... the damn thing just lifted off the block with ease... HO-D-THUNK-IT???? Now that tidbit of information should better educate you on the automotive maintenance background I was raised up in

3. I didn't see a PCV valve on either of the covers. Just two breather caps that I attached pictures of on this text. I will look into this more thoroughly and get back to you.

4. Once I return the car to the shop, they are supposed to clean the engine to better evaluate the exact cause of the oil on the drivers side rear of the engine block. The passengers side block is still oil free, so you are "I'm sure" correct as usual.

5. I had told the owner of the shop I keep a close eye on the oil level and document what I saw with pictures.

6. I had noticed the temporary temperature gauge seemed to be running a little high (220 deg) but I personally never checked the water level until last Saturday, after adjusting the electric choke. MY BAD!

7. I have been glancing at the exhaust and it's a little sooty but not an oil buildup. I will take a closer look and attach pictures on my next reply.

Thanks again for the valued advice. Since adjusting the electric choke the engine performs amazingly. No more dieseling or rough idle. U-DA-MAN!

I DEEPLY REGRET THE SHEAR TORCHER YOU "MUST" BE GOING THROUGH IN BoraBora. God bless your poor old soul!

KNOT-HEAD

P.S.
Far be it for me to start any ****....but... Give an old fat man a break.... WHERE'S THE DAMN PICTURES???????

KNOT-HEAD

Thanks,
There are no PCV valves on the valve covers (see pictures on the reply to pauldana). I will change the valve covers either after the Blueprint warranty is up or if I can get in writing changing the valve covers will not void the warranty. What type breathers should be on the engine? I'm going to call JEGS myself so I can get this crap resolved. I had been dependent on the shop to work out the details but that is not happening.

KNOT-HEAD

KNOT-HEAD

No PCV valve passenger side 12-18-18


No PCV valve drivers side 12-18-18


Oil dip stick showing "FULL" 12-18-18


Passenger side exhaust 12-18-18


Drivers side exhaust 12-18-18