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Thanks, pauldana...
PICTURES work a lot better with a KNOT-HEAD like me. That's pretty close to the original exhaust that came on the L82. Good thing I was SMART ENOUGH TO CHANGE IT...LOL! The only difference was mine came down to "one" pipe than back to two. I thought that would restrict the exhaust. Yours still has the same ID as two individual pipes. I think I would have left it alone if mine was like yours instead of reducing two pipes to one than back to two.
I see the big difference in the "tuned" headers.... but damn, they were a lot more money. Now after all of your tutaledge, I would have bit the bullet and spent the extra bucks. I did do one thing right!!!!! I had my exhaust wrapped. I was told that would not only keep some of the heat out of the passenger compartment, it would also help "scavenge" the exhaust. I plan to wrap them again once I get the car back...... See! I'm doing GOOD ain't I?
KNOT-HEAD
WO,WO,WO....HOLE DE DOE!!!!
You did the same thing I did two years ago by turning my Borla mufflers backwards to get the four exhaust tips. Naturally it was originally a screw up. The dirt track racer I worked with recommended the Borla mufflers. I was supposed to only buy one and have two inlet and one outlet, then split the outlet pipes back to two, but guess what... in my infinite wisdom, I bought two by mistake. I still like the four exhaust tips. I guess it's OK that you used "MY" idea!
WAIT A DAMN MINUET.....
pauldana.... That "ALMOST" sounds like "YOU THINK" I may have done something GOOD! Call "911"... I think I'm having a "STROKE"!
Dont waste your money on tuned headers, just ones that are sized well, fit & affordable. Same wiht mandrel vs non mandrel exhaust unless youre making a ton of power and need that last 5
Thanks,
I got about $30k tied up in an $18k car. What I have right now is just going to have to do. When my eldest son inherits the thing, he is the type of guy that will not settle for second best. I'm sure he will do the car justice.....
KNOT-HEAD
NEW SUBJECT,
The problem is... I don't know what you call the part. One of the jack legs that worked on the car, replaced the rear leaf spring with a new one.... It didn't help leveling out the car as I hoped it would. In the process, he broke one of the ears off the differential stabilizing cover located above the differential. There is still one (5/8" x 8"...approximate measurements) bolt in place. The leaf spring is also bolted in place. As I have said many times before, I don't plan on performing "jack rabbit" starts, but I am concerned if would do something like hit a stationary object with the passengers side rear wheel at a moderate speed, if that could possibly dislodge the rear axle from its mounting bracket and possible move the leaf spring enough to cause damage to the rear end, leaf spring, chassis or any other rear components and possible cause us to wreck the car. I was thinking of putting a metal strap around the complete assembly to insure nothing could be jogged out of place. I don' know what the name of the part is or if I can get a suitable replacement.... Please advise.
KNOT-HEAD Sorry but the spare tire cover is obstructing the view of the damaged part.
Here are some better pictures of the broken rear end support bracket. The cast iron eyelet above the rear leaf spring is broken, so I can,'t put a bolt in it.
The best item to simplify the exhaust is a using a tranny cross member made for a pass under exhaust. You can buy them from BTO. Then the exhaust can come straight back from the headers. Very easy to R&R.
The next best mod is in the rear. Get rid of the space saver tire & carrier.
I've never broken a rear end differential cover, But my last Rear Diff. build I did install a HD cover and tapped the bottom with a drain plug.
I value my back side so I installed a custom cross-M and drive shaft safety loop
Just unbolt the pipes and remove them to work on the diff.
I went to check on the progress of the car Friday 10/19/18. They were timing the engine. It sounds great. As soon as I find out how to attach a video, I will attache one I took of them timing the engine. They ordered the wrong transmission to drive shaft yoke for the third time. They did not measure the universal joint that was installed on the drive shaft and then get a yoke to match. These mistakes has been holding up completion of the car for three weeks. I sat there with them Friday to make sure they measured the universal and looked up the conversion chart so they can match the universal joint to the yoke.
Making head way. They actually drove the car from one shop to the next shop. That means they finally got the universal joint to match the two yokes. While they were driving, they noticed a "shimmy" from the rear of the car. They will be checking out the rear axle universal joints to see if that is what is causing the "shimmy". I'm trying to post a video but the site will not accept the MP4 format on the video. I have to see what format the site will accept and try to change the video to match.
Making head way. They actually drove the car from one shop to the next shop. That means they finally got the universal joint to match the two yokes. While they were driving, they noticed a "shimmy" from the rear of the car. They will be checking out the rear axle universal joints to see if that is what is causing the "shimmy". I'm trying to post a video but the site will not accept the MP4 format on the video. I have to see what format the site will accept and try to change the video to match.
KNOT-HEAD
I see that you have a BTO tranny cross member! What does this mean? they finally got the universal joint to match the two yokes.
I was trying to think of what might cause shimmy? I use an aluminum disk on the front diff snubber to eliminate any movement. If you have rubber or reused the old rubber snubber. You can't tighten it down to where it crushes the rubber. It then leaves a gap and the front of the diff can move up and down. If you are using rubber the best option is to install an additional big thick washer to take any gap out of the front snubber.
In my picture can you see the aluminum disks at each end of the diff crossmember? those hold the cross-m solidly. Another source of vibration is the drive shaft angle. You might need to space the rear of the tranny up to get a @ an 2 1/2 degree down angle on the drive shaft going to the rear end pinion.
10-16-2018, 12:52 PM
What does this mean? they finally got the universal joint to match the two yokes.
