Heads and cam.....here we go again
#21
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I would get rid of the Sanderson "headers" and Performer intake first. They are choking it to death and its only gonna be worse with better heads and a bigger cam.
Pick out your heads first, then select a cam based on the heads/compression. All of those three rollers are about the same size cam you have now so....I wouldn't expect a HUGE gain...maybe 10-15hp... I'd probably go with the AFR 180 heads, RPM air gap intake, and a Comp 230/236* hyd roller.... something in that ball park. With real headers. Should make 400hp+ pretty easy if you can get the compression up with smaller cc chambers.
Pick out your heads first, then select a cam based on the heads/compression. All of those three rollers are about the same size cam you have now so....I wouldn't expect a HUGE gain...maybe 10-15hp... I'd probably go with the AFR 180 heads, RPM air gap intake, and a Comp 230/236* hyd roller.... something in that ball park. With real headers. Should make 400hp+ pretty easy if you can get the compression up with smaller cc chambers.
will not fit under stock Corvette hood.
#22
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St. Jude Donor '22
good thread,
thing about any engine especially small block is
where you want to make power.
lucky that the l-82 has forged parts and can spin to 6500.
so any owner needs to be honest with themselves and
know whether they like low rpm grunt of torque and run out of gears
or high rpm grunt hp and get that motor singing.
thing about any engine especially small block is
where you want to make power.
lucky that the l-82 has forged parts and can spin to 6500.
so any owner needs to be honest with themselves and
know whether they like low rpm grunt of torque and run out of gears
or high rpm grunt hp and get that motor singing.
#23
Le Mans Master
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Will Not Fit? Baloney.
If you know what CYA means, that's Edelbrocks way of protecting their reputation. They don't want some big shot attorney trying to sue because a after-mention intake did not fit a after-mentioned vehicle. Read the fine print: will not fit blah-blah-blah.
There are ways around that fitment issue. You have to be creative. You have to be imaginative. Or just look at what others are doing on this forum.
The key words here are: "drop-base-air cleaner".
If you know what CYA means, that's Edelbrocks way of protecting their reputation. They don't want some big shot attorney trying to sue because a after-mention intake did not fit a after-mentioned vehicle. Read the fine print: will not fit blah-blah-blah.
There are ways around that fitment issue. You have to be creative. You have to be imaginative. Or just look at what others are doing on this forum.
The key words here are: "drop-base-air cleaner".
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; 12-14-2018 at 02:38 PM.
#24
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Will Not Fit? Baloney.
If you know what CYA means, that's Edelbrocks way of protecting their reputation. They don't want some big shot attorney trying to sue because a after-mention intake did not fit a after-mentioned vehicle. Read the fine print: will not fit blah-blah-blah.
There are ways around that fitment issue. You have to be creative. You have to be imaginative. Or just look at what others are doing on this forum.
The key words here are: "drop-base-air cleaner".
If you know what CYA means, that's Edelbrocks way of protecting their reputation. They don't want some big shot attorney trying to sue because a after-mention intake did not fit a after-mentioned vehicle. Read the fine print: will not fit blah-blah-blah.
There are ways around that fitment issue. You have to be creative. You have to be imaginative. Or just look at what others are doing on this forum.
The key words here are: "drop-base-air cleaner".
#25
Le Mans Master
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Thanks to "drop-base" design, you can also run a insulated 1/4" carb spacer or a medium-rise intake, and some Holley owners run the bigger 50cc secondary pump shot. All do-able with aftermarket kits. I believe the common drop base air cleaner is 1 + 1/2" drop.
You just have to make sure you have breathing clearance between fuel bowl vents and bottom of cleaner lid. I believe that is 3/4" minimum.
You just have to make sure you have breathing clearance between fuel bowl vents and bottom of cleaner lid. I believe that is 3/4" minimum.
#26
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Thanks to "drop-base" design, you can also run a insulated 1/4" carb spacer or a medium-rise intake, and some Holley owners run the bigger 50cc secondary pump shot. All do-able with aftermarket kits. I believe the common drop base air cleaner is 1 + 1/2" drop.
You just have to make sure you have breathing clearance between fuel bowl vents and bottom of cleaner lid. I believe that is 3/4" minimum.
You just have to make sure you have breathing clearance between fuel bowl vents and bottom of cleaner lid. I believe that is 3/4" minimum.
#27
Le Mans Master
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i agree ... in addition there's also"offset base air cleaner" which are also available in several different heights along with an Offset ... several manufacturers
https://www.jegs.com/i/Spectre/865/4...iABEgJakPD_BwE
also plain jane performer 2101 certainly capable 400 fwhp.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Spectre/865/4...iABEgJakPD_BwE
also plain jane performer 2101 certainly capable 400 fwhp.
#28
Le Mans Master
RPM airgap intake is not the only way to accomplish the goal of high RPM and cool intake charge. You can fashion an oil splash shield onto a 2101 and that is nearly as good as the air gap.
The biggest difference between the RPM vs the 2101 is the cut down center divider. So you could take a 2101 and cut down the center divider or run a thick open carb gasket that would allow air to pass over the center divider to accomplish similar goals.
I run an oil splash shield and an open carb gasket of .80" thickness to accomplish both.
I run my RPM up to 6300 regularly with this set up. A standard performer 2101 with no mods and a high lift, long duration cam may be a bit of a mismatch and you will not be able to get the higher RPM performance from it.
The runner sizes on the 2101 may become choke points as well. Mine has been opened up to provide more volume to feed the heads.
I did all this to accommodate the stock air cleaner assembly and provide hood clearance. This allows the use of cold air intake vs under hood intake air. Additional air intake tubes did have to be added however to feed all the air the engine wanted and not restrict the intake due to the single snorkel on the stock arrangement.
The biggest difference between the RPM vs the 2101 is the cut down center divider. So you could take a 2101 and cut down the center divider or run a thick open carb gasket that would allow air to pass over the center divider to accomplish similar goals.
I run an oil splash shield and an open carb gasket of .80" thickness to accomplish both.
I run my RPM up to 6300 regularly with this set up. A standard performer 2101 with no mods and a high lift, long duration cam may be a bit of a mismatch and you will not be able to get the higher RPM performance from it.
The runner sizes on the 2101 may become choke points as well. Mine has been opened up to provide more volume to feed the heads.
I did all this to accommodate the stock air cleaner assembly and provide hood clearance. This allows the use of cold air intake vs under hood intake air. Additional air intake tubes did have to be added however to feed all the air the engine wanted and not restrict the intake due to the single snorkel on the stock arrangement.
Last edited by REELAV8R; 12-14-2018 at 05:11 PM.
#29
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St. Jude Donor '05, '09, '15
Latest update.......
Howards recommended this cam....https://www.howardscams.com/hydrauli...ms-cl110525-10
Seems like way overkill? 2300-6100 rpm?
Anyway, I'm going to bite the bullet and do TKO 5 speed and aluminum heads and roller cam. Screw it, right? I've already got a buttload of money in this thing now.
I'm leaning towards the Lunati Voodoo in the first post. My next question is heads. I know AFR is the gold standard but I've been reading and hearing some very good things about Profiler. Anybody have any experience with them?
https://www.profilerperformance.com/...ree-heads.html
Howards recommended this cam....https://www.howardscams.com/hydrauli...ms-cl110525-10
Seems like way overkill? 2300-6100 rpm?
Anyway, I'm going to bite the bullet and do TKO 5 speed and aluminum heads and roller cam. Screw it, right? I've already got a buttload of money in this thing now.
I'm leaning towards the Lunati Voodoo in the first post. My next question is heads. I know AFR is the gold standard but I've been reading and hearing some very good things about Profiler. Anybody have any experience with them?
https://www.profilerperformance.com/...ree-heads.html
1969 Gen I 4 bolt main block .030 over, zero decked
.039 head gasket
GM forged crank, stock
Weisco forged flat top pistons 7cc valve relief, floating
Scat forged rods 5.7
Profiler heads 185 runners, 64cc chambers
Howards hyd roller cam 110885-08. 225/225 .525/.525 108LSA, Advertised Duration: 278 int./278 exh
Comp 1.5 roller rockers
Edelbrock 5419 3x2 intake with Rochester 2GC carbs. Center primary carb, outside carbs secondary with progressive linkage. All carbs rated 250 cfm
Hooker headers to sidepipes. 1 3/4 primaries, mufflers are 3 1/2" OD chambered with 3" center bore
MSD Dist and 6AL box
14# initial timing, 22 mech advance, 10# vacuum
GM L88 17lb flywheel
Tom
Last edited by Sky65; 12-14-2018 at 09:34 PM.
#30
Team Owner
Thread Starter
RPM airgap intake is not the only way to accomplish the goal of high RPM and cool intake charge. You can fashion an oil splash shield onto a 2101 and that is nearly as good as the air gap.
The biggest difference between the RPM vs the 2101 is the cut down center divider. So you could take a 2101 and cut down the center divider or run a thick open carb gasket that would allow air to pass over the center divider to accomplish similar goals.
I run an oil splash shield and an open carb gasket of .80" thickness to accomplish both.
I run my RPM up to 6300 regularly with this set up. A standard performer 2101 with no mods and a high lift, long duration cam may be a bit of a mismatch and you will not be able to get the higher RPM performance from it.
The runner sizes on the 2101 may become choke points as well. Mine has been opened up to provide more volume to feed the heads.
I did all this to accommodate the stock air cleaner assembly and provide hood clearance. This allows the use of cold air intake vs under hood intake air. Additional air intake tubes did have to be added however to feed all the air the engine wanted and not restrict the intake due to the single snorkel on the stock arrangement.
The biggest difference between the RPM vs the 2101 is the cut down center divider. So you could take a 2101 and cut down the center divider or run a thick open carb gasket that would allow air to pass over the center divider to accomplish similar goals.
I run an oil splash shield and an open carb gasket of .80" thickness to accomplish both.
I run my RPM up to 6300 regularly with this set up. A standard performer 2101 with no mods and a high lift, long duration cam may be a bit of a mismatch and you will not be able to get the higher RPM performance from it.
The runner sizes on the 2101 may become choke points as well. Mine has been opened up to provide more volume to feed the heads.
I did all this to accommodate the stock air cleaner assembly and provide hood clearance. This allows the use of cold air intake vs under hood intake air. Additional air intake tubes did have to be added however to feed all the air the engine wanted and not restrict the intake due to the single snorkel on the stock arrangement.
I'm using the Profilers and a Howards hyd roller cam in my 65. It runs very well. Has a little chop at idle but very streetable. It will smoke the 275/50 17 rear tires to the 6300 rev limiter just by stomping on it at a 15 mph roll. I last summer i changed to 1.6 rockers to bring the lift to .560. It moved the power band up little. I think the 1.5s were better for the street.
1969 Gen I 4 bolt main block .030 over, zero decked
.039 head gasket
GM forged crank, stock
Weisco forged flat top pistons 7cc valve relief, floating
Scat forged rods 5.7
Profiler heads 185 runners, 64cc chambers
Howards hyd roller cam 110885-08. 225/225 .525/.525 108LSA, Advertised Duration: 278 int./278 exh
Comp 1.5 roller rockers
Edelbrock 5419 3x2 intake with Rochester 2GC carbs. Center primary carb, outside carbs secondary with progressive linkage. All carbs rated 250 cfm
Hooker headers to sidepipes. 1 3/4 primaries, mufflers are 3 1/2" OD chambered with 3" center bore
MSD Dist and 6AL box
14# initial timing, 22 mech advance, 10# vacuum
GM L88 17lb flywheel
Tom
1969 Gen I 4 bolt main block .030 over, zero decked
.039 head gasket
GM forged crank, stock
Weisco forged flat top pistons 7cc valve relief, floating
Scat forged rods 5.7
Profiler heads 185 runners, 64cc chambers
Howards hyd roller cam 110885-08. 225/225 .525/.525 108LSA, Advertised Duration: 278 int./278 exh
Comp 1.5 roller rockers
Edelbrock 5419 3x2 intake with Rochester 2GC carbs. Center primary carb, outside carbs secondary with progressive linkage. All carbs rated 250 cfm
Hooker headers to sidepipes. 1 3/4 primaries, mufflers are 3 1/2" OD chambered with 3" center bore
MSD Dist and 6AL box
14# initial timing, 22 mech advance, 10# vacuum
GM L88 17lb flywheel
Tom
#31
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Another possible head source is Promaxx. Apparently they are the latest reincarnation of Patriot. Speed shop here has good things to say about them and they are very reasonably priced.
https://promaxxperformance.com/product/maxx-183-sbc/
https://promaxxperformance.com/product/maxx-183-sbc/
#32
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2017
Location: Cool Northern Michigan
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Another possible head source is Promaxx. Apparently they are the latest reincarnation of Patriot. Speed shop here has good things to say about them and they are very reasonably priced.
https://promaxxperformance.com/product/maxx-183-sbc/
https://promaxxperformance.com/product/maxx-183-sbc/
These heads tend to go on sale at the two big box stores (S & J) in the winter. I got a pair shipped to me for under seven bills. I elected to keep the smaller springs that come with them because they are good to 0.550 lift I believe?
Keep in mind with most aluminum heads you will need the following additions.
Top notch headgaskets that will work flawlessly at mating aluminum to iron.
Top notch (ARP) head bolt kit.
Longer pushrods that will work with guide plates and a pushrod length checking tool.
Longer reach sparkplugs.
You will need to adapt your stock Water Temp sending unit to the smaller NPT on the head. Or have the head drilled & tapped larger.
If you want to see some pixs of these heads, click on my profile & build photo album.
#33
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Love mine. I got the 2169 after watching a YouTuber bandsaw one of those heads in half. He explained that the ProMaxx had more "meat" than cheaper heads have.
These heads tend to go on sale at the two big box stores (S & J) in the winter. I got a pair shipped to me for under seven bills. I elected to keep the smaller springs that come with them because they are good to 0.550 lift I believe?
Keep in mind with most aluminum heads you will need the following additions.
Top notch headgaskets that will work flawlessly at mating aluminum to iron.
Top notch (ARP) head bolt kit.
Longer pushrods that will work with guide plates and a pushrod length checking tool.
Longer reach sparkplugs.
You will need to adapt your stock Water Temp sending unit to the smaller NPT on the head. Or have the head drilled & tapped larger.
If you want to see some pixs of these heads, click on my profile & build photo album.
These heads tend to go on sale at the two big box stores (S & J) in the winter. I got a pair shipped to me for under seven bills. I elected to keep the smaller springs that come with them because they are good to 0.550 lift I believe?
Keep in mind with most aluminum heads you will need the following additions.
Top notch headgaskets that will work flawlessly at mating aluminum to iron.
Top notch (ARP) head bolt kit.
Longer pushrods that will work with guide plates and a pushrod length checking tool.
Longer reach sparkplugs.
You will need to adapt your stock Water Temp sending unit to the smaller NPT on the head. Or have the head drilled & tapped larger.
If you want to see some pixs of these heads, click on my profile & build photo album.
As far as the temp sender, I bought a sender from Lectric Limited that they claimed would be a correct match for the original gauge, paid $40 at a machine shop to have it turned down to fit my Dart iron head and it reads just as high (about 30* higher) as the plain jane sender.
#34
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Member Since: Mar 2011
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Royal Canadian Navy
Latest update.......
Howards recommended this cam....https://www.howardscams.com/hydrauli...ms-cl110525-10
Howards recommended this cam....https://www.howardscams.com/hydrauli...ms-cl110525-10
#35
Team Owner
Thread Starter
#36
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Member Since: Mar 2011
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Royal Canadian Navy
Not really. Stock L-82 bottom end bored 0.030" over. Changed heads, intake and cam. That seems to be what you're doing. The other stuff I've done was just upgrades. Don't brush off using a Team G single plane intake. It doesn't lose that much low end tq compared to the rpm air gap and will be a lot easier to fit an air filter under the hood.
#37
Le Mans Master
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Those are nice looking! And under $700? I'll keep an eye on them for a sale. 2169HR are $900 at Summit as well as Promaxx website and the Maxx series head is only another $50.
As far as the temp sender, I bought a sender from Lectric Limited that they claimed would be a correct match for the original gauge, paid $40 at a machine shop to have it turned down to fit my Dart iron head and it reads just as high (about 30* higher) as the plain jane sender.
As far as the temp sender, I bought a sender from Lectric Limited that they claimed would be a correct match for the original gauge, paid $40 at a machine shop to have it turned down to fit my Dart iron head and it reads just as high (about 30* higher) as the plain jane sender.
I really wanted to keep the reliable stock Water Temp sender so I took the new passenger side cyl head to a machine shop for a drill & tap. I think that was $30-35.
If you go with these heads or another set, always put a torque wrench on the rocker studs to double check it. Strange things happen sometimes in manufacturing.
#39
Le Mans Master
i will make a couple observations purely for what its worth, meaning nothing lol. somebody said their cam sounded like a solid lifter? whats wrong with that, I'm seriously thinking of going to a solid lifter cam, these hydraulic lifter cams put so much weight on the valve train and I've seen more than one send needle bearings through an engine. theres no free lunch folks. another thing is the rpm air gap definitely does fit under the hood of late model c3 Corvettes. i can't imagine why someone would put really good flowing aluminum heads on a car and put that l-82 intake on it,with stock 882 heads yeah an air gap maybe only worth 5 to 7 horsepower but with good flowing heads we changed things a bit didn't we? the fact is it is NOT under any circumstances the same as the z/28 LT-1 intake its the same as the cast iron crap on tow trucks except its made of aluminum, which is desireable because you can recycle it and make a real intake. there is a lot of good advice on this forum and some that is not. do your research, ask the cam companies what they think, and good luck.because luck has a role to play in this too. and if i offended anyone that wasn't my intent .if you want it to look stock paint it. i recently saw a mustang "gasp" with an LS motor in it dressed up and looked so much like a 351 it would amaze you. if you guys don't talk to me have a Merry Christmas and a blessed new year.
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HeadsU.P. (12-16-2018)
#40
Team Owner
Thread Starter
It was in the dead of winter when those heads went on sale for $685. After conducting extensive research, then finally pulling the trigger, they jumped to $715, which is what I ended up paying, I guess.
I really wanted to keep the reliable stock Water Temp sender so I took the new passenger side cyl head to a machine shop for a drill & tap. I think that was $30-35.
If you go with these heads or another set, always put a torque wrench on the rocker studs to double check it. Strange things happen sometimes in manufacturing.
I really wanted to keep the reliable stock Water Temp sender so I took the new passenger side cyl head to a machine shop for a drill & tap. I think that was $30-35.
If you go with these heads or another set, always put a torque wrench on the rocker studs to double check it. Strange things happen sometimes in manufacturing.
i will make a couple observations purely for what its worth, meaning nothing lol. somebody said their cam sounded like a solid lifter? whats wrong with that, I'm seriously thinking of going to a solid lifter cam, these hydraulic lifter cams put so much weight on the valve train and I've seen more than one send needle bearings through an engine. theres no free lunch folks. another thing is the rpm air gap definitely does fit under the hood of late model c3 Corvettes. i can't imagine why someone would put really good flowing aluminum heads on a car and put that l-82 intake on it,with stock 882 heads yeah an air gap maybe only worth 5 to 7 horsepower but with good flowing heads we changed things a bit didn't we? the fact is it is NOT under any circumstances the same as the z/28 LT-1 intake its the same as the cast iron crap on tow trucks except its made of aluminum, which is desireable because you can recycle it and make a real intake. there is a lot of good advice on this forum and some that is not. do your research, ask the cam companies what they think, and good luck.because luck has a role to play in this too. and if i offended anyone that wasn't my intent .if you want it to look stock paint it. i recently saw a mustang "gasp" with an LS motor in it dressed up and looked so much like a 351 it would amaze you. if you guys don't talk to me have a Merry Christmas and a blessed new year.
I think it's voodoo.....gonna go find a witch doctor and get him to throw some bones