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JUST MAKE SURE that when you stake the inner sleeve. That you take a file or grinder and get ANY of that the sleeve that may be protruding out past the tapered washer FLAT. . You wan the surface of that tapered washer FLAT so your shims lay against it FLAT with nothing pushing out on the shim keeping it from beign flat against that tapered washer.
JUST MAKE SURE that when you stake the inner sleeve. That you take a file or grinder and get ANY of that the sleeve that may be protruding out past the tapered washer FLAT. . You wan the surface of that tapered washer FLAT so your shims lay against it FLAT with nothing pushing out on the shim keeping it from beign flat against that tapered washer.
DUB.
I did exactly that DUB.Advice from you in another thread related to this.You have helped me w many things
McGYVER 101.This is what I used to install and flair
Great idea on the pointed air chisel !!... but I need to know, did you use air power or just smack it with a hammer ?
I'm thinking carefully a burp at a time will do the nicer job you have. I did the same setup using my two pullers like you have them arranged and for the flare I used the center pin from the puller. The problem happened in my new 12 ton china press the 3/4 inch steel press rod bent sideways like butter. The 3/8 drive socket I used also left a permanent deep imprint in this china steel rod as well
I wrote on my tool to compress to 2.225" between the two tool plates. Not sure where I came up with that measurement, but there are several corvettes running around the area with them and no problems. Edit, I just found an old post that recommends compress it to 2.200 to 2.230"
JR333 The air hammer bit is used backwards, you hit the point with a hammer to flare with the taper that normally goes into the air hammer.
When pushing a bushing in an a frame (same thing your doing here) I use a spacer to keep it from collapsing. Once this starts you are basicly pressing into a bind. Try tapping it with a hammer to get it straight again. Often times a socket can be used as a spacer to keep it from bending down.
I wrote on my tool to compress to 2.225" between the two tool plates. Not sure where I came up with that measurement, but there are several corvettes running around the area with them and no problems. Edit, I just found an old post that recommends compress it to 2.200 to 2.230"
JR333 The air hammer bit is used backwards, you hit the point with a hammer to flare with the taper that normally goes into the air hammer.
Like all real Americans I am a member of both the Corvette and AR-15 forums, so I will dial it back to 2.223.
09-15-2018, 03:52 PM
Loan me a trailing arm bushing install tool?
