Blueprint Engines?
Pro
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 708
Likes: 150
From: Minnesota
You could also look at Tri Star Engines in Baldwin, WI. They provide thousands of stock rebuilds for outfits like O'Reilly or shops and other chains, and also offer high performance pkgs off their site.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,532
Likes: 1,185
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
Sorry, I didn't know how much you wanted to spend since you didn't say an actual amount, but I made an assumption based on that you have a 3.70 gear and 2500 TC and probably wanted a bit of performance when you hit the loud peddle. Like mentioned by a couple of guys, going cheap may bite you in the backside and then you get to do it all over again. It then starts to get painful the second time depending on how deep your pockets are. There is one more concern about that motor, but it may not really be a concern to most people is that it is a .040 over block already, which to me means that the motor was probably .030 over to start and needed to go .040 over to make it right, but may not be the case. Now the motor is a 357/358 that is .040 over. If something goes bad and it needs to be bored again, going .060 can be rather dicey and it may become a heater which would suck and not make for an enjoyable cruiser. Not that anything would happen, but things do happen and just throwing it out there for food for thought. I would be more comfortable with a .030 over 355 motor instead.
Last edited by Buccaneer; Sep 18, 2018 at 06:28 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 10,658
Likes: 2,140
From: Golden Colorado
This is all true but.......
Sorry, I didn't know how much you wanted to spend since you didn't say an actual amount, but I made an assumption based on that you have a 3.70 gear and 2500 TC and probably wanted a bit of performance when you hit the loud peddle. Like mentioned by a couple of guys, going cheap may bite you in the backside and then you get to do it all over again. It then starts to get painful the second time depending on how deep your pockets are. There is one more concern about that motor, but it may not really be a concern to most people is that it is a .040 over block already, which to me means that the motor was probably .030 over to start and needed to go .040 over to make it right, but may not be the case. Now the motor is a 357/358 that is .040 over. If something goes bad and it needs to be bored again, going .060 can be rather dicey and it may become a heater which would suck and not make for an enjoyable cruiser. Not that anything would happen, but things do happen and just throwing it out there for food for thought. I would be more comfortable with a .030 over 355 motor instead.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,445
Likes: 971
From: Tennessee/Rhode Island
I think he was referring to out of warranty. I brought the .040 bore issue earlier as well in my earlier post. (#13). Heck, I don't like the fact that i had to bore my numbers matching L-82 block .030 back in 2014 to get it right when I rebuilt/upgraded my L-82. I wish I could have gone .020 instead....
Last edited by jb78L-82; Sep 18, 2018 at 07:33 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 797
Likes: 156
From: England AR
that is what my motor is, but with about 3k porting in the heads, a 355 is a very under-estimated motor to the average red-neck, they just want their 383's
but the 408w was my first motor, and I couldn't be happier for under 5k having a very solid running engine, NOW... that said, who knows if they've changed and gotten cheaper in the last 5 years. It does have a steel crank but cheaper forged pistons, but I have ragged the heck outa this thing shifting around 6500 and it still keeps going strong, for me... it's been money well spent
but the 408w was my first motor, and I couldn't be happier for under 5k having a very solid running engine, NOW... that said, who knows if they've changed and gotten cheaper in the last 5 years. It does have a steel crank but cheaper forged pistons, but I have ragged the heck outa this thing shifting around 6500 and it still keeps going strong, for me... it's been money well spent
Last edited by naramlee; Sep 18, 2018 at 07:37 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,445
Likes: 971
From: Tennessee/Rhode Island
355 is a very under-estimated motor to the average red-neck, they just want their 383's
This reminds me of the younger generation crowd that argue that the GM V6 2.8/3.1/3.4/3.8 liter series and how the "mighty" 3.8 makes sooo much more power and torque than the smaller V6's just by virtue of the displacement...not so fast son...maybe, maybe not and the difference often is VERY small and barely noticeable on the street.
Last edited by jb78L-82; Sep 18, 2018 at 07:47 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 797
Likes: 156
From: England AR
I have been saying the same for ever. Yes, built exactly with the same top quality components the 383 with it extra 28 cubes will make a bit more power...BUT its not ground breaking. In fact, folks have been building smaller engines forever that can and will smoke the bigger cube motor. Its all about the components and the match of said components to the application.
This reminds me of the younger generation crowd that argue that the GM V6 2.8/3.1/3.4/3.8 liter series and how the "mighty" 3.8 makes sooo much more power and torque than the smaller V6's just by virtue of the displacement...not so fast son...maybe, maybe not and the difference often is VERY small and barely noticeable on the street.
This reminds me of the younger generation crowd that argue that the GM V6 2.8/3.1/3.4/3.8 liter series and how the "mighty" 3.8 makes sooo much more power and torque than the smaller V6's just by virtue of the displacement...not so fast son...maybe, maybe not and the difference often is VERY small and barely noticeable on the street.
BAHAHAHA the 3.8 was a joke... the 4.3 was what you wanted... WAY better torque... that's cuz kids just see the HP... like Vic Sr said, "you take HP and i'll take torque, and i'll wait for you at the finish line"
reminds me of the 2.5 being replaced with the 2.2... what a joke BUT at least you would wind the 2.2 up... first time over 5k for the iron duke, well there went the oiling rings
sure the rule of displacement holds true, if it's a 500cu vs 289cu... but some of these combo's aren't a magic bullet... the big races you see 302 fords winning, not the 351... but there tons of variables there, BUT there is a reason... and it's not just cubes
same with SBC's... you see more 355's than 383 winning big... there is a reason, I don't know enough engine theory to know why... but if the big dogs are doing it... maybe you should pay attention lol
I love the amsoil engine builders channel for these reasons... there are ALOT of myths that they bust in real time and I've learned ALOT from them
Last edited by naramlee; Sep 18, 2018 at 08:26 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,532
Likes: 1,185
From: Arizona - If you don’t know CFI, STOP proliferating the myths around it...
I think he was referring to out of warranty. I brought the .040 bore issue earlier as well in my earlier post. (#13). Heck, I don't like the fact that i had to bore my numbers matching L-82 block .030 back in 2014 to get it right when I rebuilt/upgraded my L-82. I wish I could have gone .020 instead....
Last edited by Buccaneer; Sep 19, 2018 at 01:32 AM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
$2500 for a 356” with vortec heads, roller cam and 1 pc rear main seal is a great value. Especially dyno tested and with a warranty. I would absolutely have no issue purchasing and running that engine. There is absolutely nothing wrong with .040” over bore....(or even .060” over for that matter on most SBCs, we even used to bore 400s .060” after sonic checking them).
Dont get caught up on the semantics around here. 373hp for $2500 is good power for the price point and will make a fun driver.
I dont know how this thread went from a $2500 budget replacement engine, to a $5500 hot rod engine but.... $5500 just for the lump isn’t feasible for everyone, and certainly not “budget”...
GJohnson, FWIW, I just finished a build on a 70’ 350 numbers matching deal that we warmed up a little... I spent well over $4k rebuilding it with some slight upgrades, and I doubt it makes much over 350hp....and it doesn’t have a roller cam. It runs fine, pretty fun to drive with 3.55s and a 2500 converter... yours is a steal compared to mine.
Dont get caught up on the semantics around here. 373hp for $2500 is good power for the price point and will make a fun driver.
I dont know how this thread went from a $2500 budget replacement engine, to a $5500 hot rod engine but.... $5500 just for the lump isn’t feasible for everyone, and certainly not “budget”...
GJohnson, FWIW, I just finished a build on a 70’ 350 numbers matching deal that we warmed up a little... I spent well over $4k rebuilding it with some slight upgrades, and I doubt it makes much over 350hp....and it doesn’t have a roller cam. It runs fine, pretty fun to drive with 3.55s and a 2500 converter... yours is a steal compared to mine.
Last edited by ajrothm; Sep 19, 2018 at 06:38 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 10,658
Likes: 2,140
From: Golden Colorado
Yes......
$2500 for a 356” with vortec heads, roller cam and 1 pc rear main seal is a great value. Especially dyno tested and with a warranty. I would absolutely have no issue purchasing and running that engine. There is absolutely nothing wrong with .040” over bore....(or even .060” over for that matter on most SBCs, we even used to bore 400s .060” after sonic checking them).
Dont get caught up on the semantics around here. 373hp for $2500 is good power for the price point and will make a fun driver.
I dont know how this thread went from a $2500 budget replacement engine, to a $5500 hot rod engine but.... $5500 just for the lump isn’t feasible for everyone, and certainly not “budget”...
GJohnson, FWIW, I just finished a build on a 70’ 350 numbers matching deal that we warmed up a little... I spent well over $4k rebuilding it with some slight upgrades, and I doubt it makes much over 350hp....and it doesn’t have a roller cam. It runs fine, pretty fun to drive with 3.55s and a 2500 converter... yours is a steal compared to mine.
Dont get caught up on the semantics around here. 373hp for $2500 is good power for the price point and will make a fun driver.
I dont know how this thread went from a $2500 budget replacement engine, to a $5500 hot rod engine but.... $5500 just for the lump isn’t feasible for everyone, and certainly not “budget”...
GJohnson, FWIW, I just finished a build on a 70’ 350 numbers matching deal that we warmed up a little... I spent well over $4k rebuilding it with some slight upgrades, and I doubt it makes much over 350hp....and it doesn’t have a roller cam. It runs fine, pretty fun to drive with 3.55s and a 2500 converter... yours is a steal compared to mine.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 797
Likes: 156
From: England AR
i didnt mean for it to, i was offering my experience with Blueprint and the cost ratio of hp with their product.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
For a "cruiser" he doesnt need forged parts. It may be "ideal" on mosts wish list but its not necessary.
A cast piston/crank motor can do 100k just fine unless he gets way off with tuning, the same will happen on a forged motor it just takes longer.
A cast piston/crank motor can do 100k just fine unless he gets way off with tuning, the same will happen on a forged motor it just takes longer.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
Cast stuff holds up fine as long as its from a decent company and you don't rattle the engine to death... I would have no issues making 500hp on a NA small block with cast pistons/cranks, as long as I didn't have to spin it real high....say <6000 rpms.
For a cruiser/weekend warrior making 400hp, the cast stuff will work fine... Assuming its all machined and assembled correctly.
FWIW, I sprayed a 150 shot on cast piston/smogger 454 for an entire summer way back in the early 90s...ran 11.50s and never hurt it, probably put 20 bottles or more through it.
Race Director
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 10,956
Likes: 409
From: California
Hundreds of thousands of LS engines have been beat on for hundreds of thousands of miles, on cast pistons and cast cranks, PM rods...
Cast stuff holds up fine as long as its from a decent company and you don't rattle the engine to death... I would have no issues making 500hp on a NA small block with cast pistons/cranks, as long as I didn't have to spin it real high....say <6000 rpms.
For a cruiser/weekend warrior making 400hp, the cast stuff will work fine... Assuming its all machined and assembled correctly.
FWIW, I sprayed a 150 shot on cast piston/smogger 454 for an entire summer way back in the early 90s...ran 11.50s and never hurt it, probably put 20 bottles or more through it.
Cast stuff holds up fine as long as its from a decent company and you don't rattle the engine to death... I would have no issues making 500hp on a NA small block with cast pistons/cranks, as long as I didn't have to spin it real high....say <6000 rpms.
For a cruiser/weekend warrior making 400hp, the cast stuff will work fine... Assuming its all machined and assembled correctly.
FWIW, I sprayed a 150 shot on cast piston/smogger 454 for an entire summer way back in the early 90s...ran 11.50s and never hurt it, probably put 20 bottles or more through it.
Generally I agree... But I did snap a SKAT cast crank on a 383 500hp... snapped in in half
But we all know I run my stuff hard.
Last edited by pauldana; Sep 20, 2018 at 04:14 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 797
Likes: 156
From: England AR
Hundreds of thousands of LS engines have been beat on for hundreds of thousands of miles, on cast pistons and cast cranks, PM rods...
Cast stuff holds up fine as long as its from a decent company and you don't rattle the engine to death... I would have no issues making 500hp on a NA small block with cast pistons/cranks, as long as I didn't have to spin it real high....say <6000 rpms.
For a cruiser/weekend warrior making 400hp, the cast stuff will work fine... Assuming its all machined and assembled correctly.
FWIW, I sprayed a 150 shot on cast piston/smogger 454 for an entire summer way back in the early 90s...ran 11.50s and never hurt it, probably put 20 bottles or more through it.
Cast stuff holds up fine as long as its from a decent company and you don't rattle the engine to death... I would have no issues making 500hp on a NA small block with cast pistons/cranks, as long as I didn't have to spin it real high....say <6000 rpms.
For a cruiser/weekend warrior making 400hp, the cast stuff will work fine... Assuming its all machined and assembled correctly.
FWIW, I sprayed a 150 shot on cast piston/smogger 454 for an entire summer way back in the early 90s...ran 11.50s and never hurt it, probably put 20 bottles or more through it.
you see that article about 1200hp on the stock LS bottom end 4.8? all it had was modified plasma moly rings with alittle additional gap for boost, but went all the way to 1200hp before a ring contacted and popped the top of the piston off, that was the only reason it failed
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp...g-bang-theory/
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 797
Likes: 156
From: England AR
Hundreds of thousands of LS engines have been beat on for hundreds of thousands of miles, on cast pistons and cast cranks, PM rods...
Cast stuff holds up fine as long as its from a decent company and you don't rattle the engine to death... I would have no issues making 500hp on a NA small block with cast pistons/cranks, as long as I didn't have to spin it real high....say <6000 rpms.
For a cruiser/weekend warrior making 400hp, the cast stuff will work fine... Assuming its all machined and assembled correctly.
FWIW, I sprayed a 150 shot on cast piston/smogger 454 for an entire summer way back in the early 90s...ran 11.50s and never hurt it, probably put 20 bottles or more through it.
Cast stuff holds up fine as long as its from a decent company and you don't rattle the engine to death... I would have no issues making 500hp on a NA small block with cast pistons/cranks, as long as I didn't have to spin it real high....say <6000 rpms.
For a cruiser/weekend warrior making 400hp, the cast stuff will work fine... Assuming its all machined and assembled correctly.
FWIW, I sprayed a 150 shot on cast piston/smogger 454 for an entire summer way back in the early 90s...ran 11.50s and never hurt it, probably put 20 bottles or more through it.
you see that article about 1200hp on the stock LS bottom end 4.8? all it had was modified plasma moly rings with alittle additional gap for boost, but went all the way to 1200hp before a ring contacted and popped the top of the piston off, that was the only reason it failed
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp...g-bang-theory/
what tires did you have on it at the time and what gear??
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 9,063
Likes: 2,736
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
These threads always end up the same......somebody asks about a mild upgrade, and next thing you know, we are at a 800 cubic inch rocket motor. The OP needs to think about what his needs are, how he is going to drive the car, and keep the choice appropriate......DO NOT LET others influence you with their ego. Everything has a price, nothing is free.
