gkull

I was going to put it off till winter. My big solid roller eats up the valve guides every couple of years. Then it starts using oil from excessive stem to guide clearance. I was out racing around with a friend in his Vette and he said that you could see a lite blue haze coming out the pipes. Just to verify that my rings were good I did a leak down test and all cylinders were great at 3% leak down or less. My heads are AFR 210 and I did some machining to correct oil return problems. I also have drilled out to .100 or .110 Morroso oil restrictors in the back of the block to decrease top end oiling and increase rods and mains oiling.

gkull

Just digging in!

gkull

The butterfly 3/8th drive air gun is great for taking things apart fast. My lash caps don't have any marks on them with two years of running this thing up to 7500 rev limiter. everything looks great. It just got up to 90 degrees in my garage by 2:30 so I call it quits. took the 5/6th nuts off the header studs and popped the pipes loose.

7T1vette

What are those gizmos on the pushrods? Are the rods floating in them, or are they fixed pivot design? If the pushrods can't float (side to side) in those things, the guides would just wear out side-to-side (it would seem to me, anyway). Their intent is to lessen rod movement at higher rpm, I assume. But the greater the difference in paired rod lift (one on base circle, other at max lift), the less the distance between those rods. All that side loading at high rpms has to go somewhere....the guides bear the burden.

derekderek

I don't see any gizmos on the pushrods. I see tie bars on the roller lifters, and I see a stud girdle on top.

gkull

Gismos, I guess that you are referring to the pushrod guide plates. In actuality you don't want the pushrods to ever rub the guide plates. So you often have to grind on them to alleviate any side loading or interference. In the event of valve float they help keep the pushrod centered in the roller rockers.

These are the most expensive comp cams pushrods that summit racing sells. 8.00 inch 5/16th heat treated. They are actually heavy. In my drag racing SBC I actually went to 3/8th push rods because of 9000 rpm

notice little or no ware on the area of the guide plates and these push rods are about 12 years old and multiple rebuilds

v2racing

Are you going to rebuild the heads yourself, if not who's doing them for you?

Mike

maj75

gkull

I'm having a head guy do all my guides and check for warpage if the heads need a surfacing job. I'm just going to take bare heads to him.

gkull

Those are the crane cams gold stud girdles. The best stud girdles that I ever worked on. I have the 7/16th taller rocker studs and they keep the studs from deflecting when the rockers are compressing over 500# open spring weights.

This is when I first put the motor together.

gkull

I had to remove 4 springs to take the last head nuts off the studs. The 1.550 diameter is so big that you can't even get a thin wall 5/8th socket on the nuts. more cheer when you have solid roller motors. comp cams 26097springs.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-26097-16

gkull

Fully studded motors are a little more of a PITA to R&R the heads. It off to the shop time now.!

cv67

Those springs look familiar, how many miles do you have them? How bout the lifters?

The Money Pit

When you pulled the heads did you need to pull the studs first, then the head, or were you able to just pull the heads over the studs. I still haven't gotten around to installing my 210 Eliminators, but when I do, I was thinking of going to studs.
Right now the heads are still new in the box sitting on the bench. Just got the new Van Steel spring yesterday. This weekend I move the step son out of the house......then maybe I'll have a shot at getting some work done on the Vette.

gkull

Those original springs now many changes ago with the red stripe were comp cams 932's with an installed height of just under 2 inches to get about 210 pounds seat pressure to around #530 open. I was raising H back then and they lost spring pressure like 25 pounds and I never wanted valve float. so I went to better springs.

My lifters are the Crane Pro. The best light weight solid rollers made for .842 bore size. that could be debated but now the top end ones are like the crane pros are up to $900 a set Running low spring pressure for the street They last. They were made for 300# seat and 800# open so I'm not stressing them Years ago I bought some cheap junk and they failed costing me a bunch of money

gkull

To answerer this question. Old blocks warp. To use a stock block or any block for that matter. You have to have the crank, cam, bolt holes aligned bored. called blue printing an engine. head studs have to be perfectly straight to R&R the heads.

You see the studs? they just lift on and off I use sealant putting in the head studs where they hit water the other get assembly lube. I used to be a sprint car head and injection pit crew guy when I did heads between rounds

gkull

Mike I'd like to pick your brain on about spring choices. Originally I went with a lower end building that could do do 8000 rpm with dart 227 cc heads for racing. I set it up with a 7500 rev limiter. I was always kinda lazy below 3500 so I down sized to afr 210 heads now it runs better for the street and I set the Rev limiter to 7000. Who else sells nice springs

OldCarBum

Give John at LJ's Speed and Machine in Napa a call.
He and his crew have been building race and performance street engines for 50 years.
707-255-4611
Greg

v2racing

I've used K-Motion springs in several different versions of their spring over quite a few years and had nothing but great luck with them. Here's a link to their spring specs. http://kmotion.biz/springdat.htm

I like high spring pressure. I did a bunch of testing on high mid and low pressures on the street and on the dyno. It was all on Harleys, but they are even harder on springs and valve train because of the high head temps of a big air cooled engine. I ran as high as 260 lbs on the seat and and 700 hundred on the nose on my Buel with my separate inlet, dual carb billet heads. "EDIT" I had .650" lift cams in this also. I revved it to 8000 rpm countless times on the street and did hundreds of pulls on the dyno. The valve train held up perfect. The K-motion springs barely lost any pressure.

When I ran that Buell with low spring pressure, 180 lbs seat, it damaged the valves. Beat the seat up because of valve bounce.

Back to K-Motion , I used them in my Top Fuel bike, all the heads I did for other racers and in the Billet Top Fuel heads I designed. I have them in my 406.

Mike

gkull

Mike I was thinking about k motion k1600 springs setup for about 220 closed and 540 open. My valves are lighter design and I want my lifters to last