A rust question again...
10-03-2018, 08:10 AM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
A rust question again...
I have seen so many pictures of birdcage rust and repair (and what it takes to do these repairs) that I am getting paranoid and anxious.
The underside of my car look crisp and taps solid. Behind the kickpanels looks like this:
No rust is falling out of the doors. I can see that the riveted firewall is leaking slightly and needs attention.
Hmm... I guess my question is, how frequent is birdcage rust on decent looking cars ?
The underside of my car look crisp and taps solid. Behind the kickpanels looks like this:
No rust is falling out of the doors. I can see that the riveted firewall is leaking slightly and needs attention.
Hmm... I guess my question is, how frequent is birdcage rust on decent looking cars ?
10-03-2018, 08:12 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Yes, it had just rained a lot when I took this pic...
10-03-2018, 08:35 AM
#3
Pro
The parts look solid, but figure out how the rain is getting in, and fix it.
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DorianC3 (10-03-2018)
10-03-2018, 09:35 AM
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
10-03-2018, 11:14 AM
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2000
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10-03-2018, 04:13 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks gents !
Did some more snooping. More solid than it looks on the pics... I think I will give this concern a rest.
Is it a good idea to apply some sort of coating to this??
Did some more snooping. More solid than it looks on the pics... I think I will give this concern a rest.
Is it a good idea to apply some sort of coating to this??
10-03-2018, 08:06 PM
#8
Race Director
a guy wrote, when restoring a C3, attention must be paid to everything made of rubber fluid travels through...Especially weatherstripping and T-top seals...
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DorianC3 (10-04-2018)
10-04-2018, 05:52 AM
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Should I spray something on these surfaces as well?
10-04-2018, 10:01 AM
#10
Le Mans Master
The green is zinc chromate. You won't find a better pre-mixed primer. It is toxic, so spraying your birdcage inside your garage may not be advisable. I use it on anything I can remove from the car, though, such as the center armrest support.
I'd suggest wire wheeling what you can, then using Ospho to convert what is left (brush on, protect your carpets). Alcohol wipe when done. Then what paint over that? I can't say.
I'd suggest wire wheeling what you can, then using Ospho to convert what is left (brush on, protect your carpets). Alcohol wipe when done. Then what paint over that? I can't say.
10-07-2018, 05:10 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
The rear looks in reasonable condition as well.
10-07-2018, 05:13 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Reasonable here too
10-07-2018, 08:55 PM
#13
Burning Brakes
You look to be in pretty good shape.
The Ospho recommended is good stuff. You can brush or spray it. Just don't let it puddle on your garage floor. It is an acid and will etch the crap out of concrete.
For anything painted not exposed to direct sunlight, POR 15 is great stuff. Just don't get any of that on you. Nothing takes it off, you'll be wearing it for a while if you do.
The Ospho recommended is good stuff. You can brush or spray it. Just don't let it puddle on your garage floor. It is an acid and will etch the crap out of concrete.
For anything painted not exposed to direct sunlight, POR 15 is great stuff. Just don't get any of that on you. Nothing takes it off, you'll be wearing it for a while if you do.
10-11-2018, 09:00 AM
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
@gmmeyerIII Sorry but can you explain to me what I am looking at ? What the concern is... not the location.
10-11-2018, 09:18 AM
#16
Melting Slicks
It's rotted under/between the rubber bushings and is hidden under everything removed and cleaned up. Very common on any vehicle to remove a body bushings and find bad rust under it while surrounding areas look good.
10-11-2018, 09:27 AM
#17
Race Director
The water getting in your hinge post is more than likely coming form the gusset that is pop riveted to your birdcage where the ends of your top hood surround are bonded to.
Look at POST #23 and #39
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tripped-2.html
DUB
Look at POST #23 and #39
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...tripped-2.html
DUB
10-11-2018, 09:38 AM
#18
Le Mans Master
For whatever it is worth:
Eastwood Rust encapsulator is the Best treatment I have ever used to stop rust cold...and I mean dead stop:
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-ru...QaAlu7EALw_wcB
This stuff ^^^^ is like titanium against rust!
Eastwood Rust encapsulator is the Best treatment I have ever used to stop rust cold...and I mean dead stop:
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-ru...QaAlu7EALw_wcB
This stuff ^^^^ is like titanium against rust!
10-11-2018, 05:26 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2015
Location: Cape Girardeau Missouri
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That looks very similar to what I found on the passenger side of my '79. Fortunately and a bit surprisingly it cleaned off very well with wire wheels and brushes. I really like Rust Bullet. In my case the culprit was a poorly installed replacement windshield. I was lucky to find (during weatherstrip replacement) and repair the problem before it became truly serious.
10-12-2018, 08:42 AM
#20
Race Director
YES...the 'rust encapsulating' products DO WORK. And many companies offer them such as SEM, Mar-Hyde and so on.
The 'trick' to using these products is to follow the instructions on how to prep the metal and make sure all of the major scale rust is removed by what ever method you can use to remove it.
POR-15 is also a great product but it does require using an acid etch and in some areas is not the best method to use due to having to wash the area out and get it totally DRY before applying the POR-15. So possibly needing to blow the area out with compressed air and using a heat gun to get the rest of the moisture out may be required due to lap joints. It works but may require in some areas to allow for more prep time.
DUB
The 'trick' to using these products is to follow the instructions on how to prep the metal and make sure all of the major scale rust is removed by what ever method you can use to remove it.
POR-15 is also a great product but it does require using an acid etch and in some areas is not the best method to use due to having to wash the area out and get it totally DRY before applying the POR-15. So possibly needing to blow the area out with compressed air and using a heat gun to get the rest of the moisture out may be required due to lap joints. It works but may require in some areas to allow for more prep time.
DUB