Emergency Brake Bubba Picture and Question
#1
Drifting
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Location: Loud, Raw and Dangerous 1968 327 4S in Southern California
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Emergency Brake Bubba Picture and Question
My 1968's former owner(s) fix for the stretched cables....no wonder it doesn't work! Got the replacement parts....question is can I easily do this in the garage or do I need a lift?
Thanks for any feedback.
Redvette2
A little stretched....yikes.
Thanks for any feedback.
Redvette2
A little stretched....yikes.
#5
Burning Brakes
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C3 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
St. Jude Donor '19
I had the front of the car on ramps for additional clearance and the rear on two jackstands. The ramps were easier than jackstands in the front. I suppose you could lift the rear only but the extra clearance makes it easier in my opinion.
Eddy
Eddy
Last edited by 74_stingray; 10-11-2018 at 11:37 AM.
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Redvette2 (10-11-2018)
#9
Drifting
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Another question please...do you have to do anything from inside the car at the handle assembly or is this just all below?
Edit: Never mind...the answer is yes...I found a procedure link: http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...brake-rebuild/
Thanks,
Redvette2
Edit: Never mind...the answer is yes...I found a procedure link: http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...brake-rebuild/
Thanks,
Redvette2
Last edited by Redvette2; 10-13-2018 at 03:43 PM. Reason: Found procedure...
#10
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '19
The rear cable is all underneath the car, the front cable begins at the parking brake handle and terminates by joining the rear cable where Bubba added the “parts” on your car, at the equalizer.
Last edited by 74_stingray; 10-13-2018 at 06:11 PM.
#12
Drifting
My bubba removed all of the internal parts and put the rotor back on so everything looked OK so he could sell the car. When the driver of the delivery truck backed it off the trailer, he put on the e-brake and started to walk away. The car started to roll. Fortunately he caught up, jumped in and stepped on the brake. I got to replace the shoes and all of the internal parts when I got the car. Good ole bubba.
#14
Drifting
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My bubba removed all of the internal parts and put the rotor back on so everything looked OK so he could sell the car. When the driver of the delivery truck backed it off the trailer, he put on the e-brake and started to walk away. The car started to roll. Fortunately he caught up, jumped in and stepped on the brake. I got to replace the shoes and all of the internal parts when I got the car. Good ole bubba.
Redvette2
#15
Drifting
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OK...installed new cables front and back. Not easy due to the cars age and neglect but doable. Found out I could not set the adjustment with the car on jack stands as it changed when the car was lowered (Edit update...also changed once I drove the car a little distance..wheels must have aligned back after lifting). Bad news is that the rear cable is still too loose even at full adjustment forward with the nut. I guess I am due for a rebuild on the rear hand brake assembly now. Something doesn't feel right however...any ideas?
Thanks,
Redvette2
Thanks,
Redvette2
Last edited by Redvette2; 10-18-2018 at 09:26 PM. Reason: Update information.
#16
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '19
Redvette2,
Have you had the rotors off to check the shoes for wear and adjustment? Bubba had done some really strange stuff to my car. I found that the lever (where the rear cable connects to the shoe) was not engaged into it's notch on the shoe, therefore no amount of cable adjustment would engage shoes to the rotor hat. I also determined that the star wheel adjuster on the right side of the car was 180 degrees out so when the wheel was turned in the proper direction to tighten ( from the floor to the roof or "up") it was actually being loosened. The star wheel should point to your right on either wheel when you face the car, in other words, toward the front on the right side and the back of the car on the left.
You may have already checked, I hope this helps. I know it can be maddening
Have you had the rotors off to check the shoes for wear and adjustment? Bubba had done some really strange stuff to my car. I found that the lever (where the rear cable connects to the shoe) was not engaged into it's notch on the shoe, therefore no amount of cable adjustment would engage shoes to the rotor hat. I also determined that the star wheel adjuster on the right side of the car was 180 degrees out so when the wheel was turned in the proper direction to tighten ( from the floor to the roof or "up") it was actually being loosened. The star wheel should point to your right on either wheel when you face the car, in other words, toward the front on the right side and the back of the car on the left.
You may have already checked, I hope this helps. I know it can be maddening
Last edited by 74_stingray; 10-18-2018 at 08:36 AM.
#17
Drifting
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[QUOTE=Techoca;1598179943]Redvette2,
Have you had the rotors off to check the shoes for wear and adjustment? Bubba had done some really strange stuff to my car. I found that the lever (where the rear cable connects to the shoe) was not engaged into it's notch on the shoe, therefore no amount of cable adjustment would engage shoes to the rotor hat. I also determined that the star wheel adjuster on the right side of the car was 180 degrees out so when the wheel was turned in the proper direction to tighten ( from the floor to the roof or "up") it was actually being loosened. The star wheel should point to your right on either wheel when you face the car, in other words, toward the front on the right side and the back of the car on the left.
You may have already checked, I hope this helps. I know it can be maddening [QUOTE]
Maddening and physically abusive...bleeding from three places after the cable installs. Have not had the rotors off yet...having some problems with the caliper bolts. Soaking them but even with a 3 foot lever still not budging. One rotor side has the rivets out and one side does not. I might say "uncle" and buy the hardware and shoes and then get some quotes for install labor from the local restoration shops (fortunately have two close by).
Thanks for the information!
Redvette2
Have you had the rotors off to check the shoes for wear and adjustment? Bubba had done some really strange stuff to my car. I found that the lever (where the rear cable connects to the shoe) was not engaged into it's notch on the shoe, therefore no amount of cable adjustment would engage shoes to the rotor hat. I also determined that the star wheel adjuster on the right side of the car was 180 degrees out so when the wheel was turned in the proper direction to tighten ( from the floor to the roof or "up") it was actually being loosened. The star wheel should point to your right on either wheel when you face the car, in other words, toward the front on the right side and the back of the car on the left.
You may have already checked, I hope this helps. I know it can be maddening [QUOTE]
Maddening and physically abusive...bleeding from three places after the cable installs. Have not had the rotors off yet...having some problems with the caliper bolts. Soaking them but even with a 3 foot lever still not budging. One rotor side has the rivets out and one side does not. I might say "uncle" and buy the hardware and shoes and then get some quotes for install labor from the local restoration shops (fortunately have two close by).
Thanks for the information!
Redvette2
Last edited by Redvette2; 10-18-2018 at 05:29 PM.
#18
Le Mans Master
Beware the scope creep on this suggestion, but it is serious:
Cut the trailing arms off the car and send them to Bair's (or elsewhere) to be rebuilt.
Unless you know they are new, it sounds like all of your bushings are original. If you can't get the calipers off, odds are you cant get the shock bolts off either, and your strut rods will have an inch or two of play in them.
This is not a small amount of work I am suggesting, but the worst jobs are ones you have to do twice.
Cut the trailing arms off the car and send them to Bair's (or elsewhere) to be rebuilt.
Unless you know they are new, it sounds like all of your bushings are original. If you can't get the calipers off, odds are you cant get the shock bolts off either, and your strut rods will have an inch or two of play in them.
This is not a small amount of work I am suggesting, but the worst jobs are ones you have to do twice.
#19
Drifting
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Beware the scope creep on this suggestion, but it is serious:
Cut the trailing arms off the car and send them to Bair's (or elsewhere) to be rebuilt.
Unless you know they are new, it sounds like all of your bushings are original. If you can't get the calipers off, odds are you cant get the shock bolts off either, and your strut rods will have an inch or two of play in them.
This is not a small amount of work I am suggesting, but the worst jobs are ones you have to do twice.
Cut the trailing arms off the car and send them to Bair's (or elsewhere) to be rebuilt.
Unless you know they are new, it sounds like all of your bushings are original. If you can't get the calipers off, odds are you cant get the shock bolts off either, and your strut rods will have an inch or two of play in them.
This is not a small amount of work I am suggesting, but the worst jobs are ones you have to do twice.
Thanks for your input.
Redvette2
#20
Le Mans Master
I was fortunate to be able to replace all the shocks a few weeks ago...bolts were tight but overcome. Shocks in the front were a joke...no action at all when moved in and out. The current disc pads on the car in the back have minimum wear so I will cross my fingers the calipers have been removed in the current century.
Thanks for your input.
Redvette2
Thanks for your input.
Redvette2