Redvette2

My 1968's former owner(s) fix for the stretched cables....no wonder it doesn't work! Got the replacement parts....question is can I easily do this in the garage or do I need a lift?
Thanks for any feedback.

Redvette2

A little stretched....yikes.

74_stingray

resdoggie

Ditto.

Redvette2

Did you use four jackstands at once or did you get by with just two in the back or moving them during the repair?

Thanks,
Redvette2

74_stingray

I had the front of the car on ramps for additional clearance and the rear on two jackstands. The ramps were easier than jackstands in the front. I suppose you could lift the rear only but the extra clearance makes it easier in my opinion.
Eddy

Redvette2

Thanks for the information...I will tackle this project in the garage this weekend.

Redvette2

74_stingray

No Problem Sir. It's no not too difficult of a job, but it sure sucks not to have a parking brake.

Redvette2

Down right scary...also the 2 by 4 is starting to wear out.

Redvette2

Redvette2

Another question please...do you have to do anything from inside the car at the handle assembly or is this just all below?

Edit: Never mind...the answer is yes...I found a procedure link: http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...brake-rebuild/

Thanks,
Redvette2

74_stingray

74_stingray

ronarndt

My bubba removed all of the internal parts and put the rotor back on so everything looked OK so he could sell the car. When the driver of the delivery truck backed it off the trailer, he put on the e-brake and started to walk away. The car started to roll. Fortunately he caught up, jumped in and stepped on the brake. I got to replace the shoes and all of the internal parts when I got the car. Good ole bubba.

Redvette2

No worries...you can never have enough documentation.
Thanks,
Redvette.

Redvette2

I had the opposite problem when the transport person delivered my car. A recent bubba brake job had been done with the wrong caliper on the front passenger side. Brake was always on so car did not want to move. Nothing like brake pad smell in the morning.

Redvette2

Redvette2

OK...installed new cables front and back. Not easy due to the cars age and neglect but doable. Found out I could not set the adjustment with the car on jack stands as it changed when the car was lowered (Edit update...also changed once I drove the car a little distance..wheels must have aligned back after lifting). Bad news is that the rear cable is still too loose even at full adjustment forward with the nut. I guess I am due for a rebuild on the rear hand brake assembly now. Something doesn't feel right however...any ideas?

Thanks,
Redvette2

74_stingray

Redvette2,
Have you had the rotors off to check the shoes for wear and adjustment? Bubba had done some really strange stuff to my car. I found that the lever (where the rear cable connects to the shoe) was not engaged into it's notch on the shoe, therefore no amount of cable adjustment would engage shoes to the rotor hat. I also determined that the star wheel adjuster on the right side of the car was 180 degrees out so when the wheel was turned in the proper direction to tighten ( from the floor to the roof or "up") it was actually being loosened. The star wheel should point to your right on either wheel when you face the car, in other words, toward the front on the right side and the back of the car on the left.

You may have already checked, I hope this helps. I know it can be maddening

Redvette2

[QUOTE=Techoca;1598179943]Redvette2,
Have you had the rotors off to check the shoes for wear and adjustment? Bubba had done some really strange stuff to my car. I found that the lever (where the rear cable connects to the shoe) was not engaged into it's notch on the shoe, therefore no amount of cable adjustment would engage shoes to the rotor hat. I also determined that the star wheel adjuster on the right side of the car was 180 degrees out so when the wheel was turned in the proper direction to tighten ( from the floor to the roof or "up") it was actually being loosened. The star wheel should point to your right on either wheel when you face the car, in other words, toward the front on the right side and the back of the car on the left.

You may have already checked, I hope this helps. I know it can be maddening [QUOTE]

Maddening and physically abusive...bleeding from three places after the cable installs. Have not had the rotors off yet...having some problems with the caliper bolts. Soaking them but even with a 3 foot lever still not budging. One rotor side has the rivets out and one side does not. I might say "uncle" and buy the hardware and shoes and then get some quotes for install labor from the local restoration shops (fortunately have two close by).

Thanks for the information!
Redvette2

Bikespace

Beware the scope creep on this suggestion, but it is serious:

Cut the trailing arms off the car and send them to Bair's (or elsewhere) to be rebuilt.

Unless you know they are new, it sounds like all of your bushings are original. If you can't get the calipers off, odds are you cant get the shock bolts off either, and your strut rods will have an inch or two of play in them.

This is not a small amount of work I am suggesting, but the worst jobs are ones you have to do twice.

Redvette2

I was fortunate to be able to replace all the shocks a few weeks ago...bolts were tight but overcome. Shocks in the front were a joke...no action at all when moved in and out. The current disc pads on the car in the back have minimum wear so I will cross my fingers the calipers have been removed in the current century.

Thanks for your input.
Redvette2

Bikespace

Glad to hear it! When you described the newly found issues, I had assumed the worst.