78 - rear differential chatter or serious rebuild?
#1
78 - rear differential chatter or serious rebuild?
Hi all, thanks again for all the previous help with this 78.
I have noticed a popping that's grown into serious banging coming from the rear end - it happens only after about 30 minutes of driving, and only happens at slow speeds when turning. I've done some research on the forum ahead of time, and there has been some discussion of a common problem with later 70s "rear differential chatter." I haven't seen a video or audio describing the problem, so I'm hoping this video might help as an aid to identify it as the problem:
My question is - some people have advised using 2 x 4oz GM post additive fluid. Does this sound like it could be cured with additive, or is it loud enough that you recommend I take off the cover and start inspecting for wear etc. towards a rebuild?
I've checked u joints which appear fine visually, brakes have no affect on noise or not. As a note, the previous seller was a general bubba and said he had changed the differential fluid in his list of service done... meaning he may not have used additive at all. Thanks for any advice.
I have noticed a popping that's grown into serious banging coming from the rear end - it happens only after about 30 minutes of driving, and only happens at slow speeds when turning. I've done some research on the forum ahead of time, and there has been some discussion of a common problem with later 70s "rear differential chatter." I haven't seen a video or audio describing the problem, so I'm hoping this video might help as an aid to identify it as the problem:
My question is - some people have advised using 2 x 4oz GM post additive fluid. Does this sound like it could be cured with additive, or is it loud enough that you recommend I take off the cover and start inspecting for wear etc. towards a rebuild?
I've checked u joints which appear fine visually, brakes have no affect on noise or not. As a note, the previous seller was a general bubba and said he had changed the differential fluid in his list of service done... meaning he may not have used additive at all. Thanks for any advice.
Last edited by 1978BackToLife; 03-10-2017 at 07:07 PM.
#2
Race Director
You can not check the U-joints by just looking at them.
I have heard this SAME SOUND many times and it can be universal joints...rear wheel bearings....or brakes grabbing.
I am NOT 'saying' that you do not need to check your rear differential fluid...but I doubt that that is it. But I have been wrong and the additive and fluid is cheap.
DUB
I have heard this SAME SOUND many times and it can be universal joints...rear wheel bearings....or brakes grabbing.
I am NOT 'saying' that you do not need to check your rear differential fluid...but I doubt that that is it. But I have been wrong and the additive and fluid is cheap.
DUB
#3
Drifting
DUB knows way more about these things than I do so take what I say with a grain of salt....I don't really see why turning the front wheels would make the u-joints sound like this....I would think they would do it all the time.
What does it sound like going down the road....?
When my differential started making the noise while turning it sounded like a hand full of gravel was tossed in there with the gear and you could feel it in the seat of your pants. 2 bottles of additive fixed my issue.
Brian
What does it sound like going down the road....?
When my differential started making the noise while turning it sounded like a hand full of gravel was tossed in there with the gear and you could feel it in the seat of your pants. 2 bottles of additive fixed my issue.
Brian
#4
Le Mans Master
You can't remove the cover off and inspect for wear like other cars. You'd have to drop the rear crossmember with the diff attached to open it up, and that's a major job. I'd start with draining a replacing the gear oil and refill with new, to include posi additive. It's cheap enough to try and if it doesn't help, you're not out much money, but it might help.
#5
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Member Since: Mar 2011
Location: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Posts: 5,338
Received 1,199 Likes
on
925 Posts
Royal Canadian Navy
You can't remove the cover off and inspect for wear like other cars. You'd have to drop the rear crossmember with the diff attached to open it up, and that's a major job. I'd start with draining a replacing the gear oil and refill with new, to include posi additive. It's cheap enough to try and if it doesn't help, you're not out much money, but it might help.
Then go do a few figure 8's. Might try a few figure 8's beforehand and see if that fixes it.
#7
Melting Slicks
You can't remove the cover off and inspect for wear like other cars. You'd have to drop the rear crossmember with the diff attached to open it up, and that's a major job. I'd start with draining a replacing the gear oil and refill with new, to include posi additive. It's cheap enough to try and if it doesn't help, you're not out much money, but it might help.
#9
Le Mans Master
Sounds like something binding and releasing to me. I appears in your video that you wheel maybe has a lot of postitive camber, hard to tell for sure. This can be due to the stub axle ends wearing down and allowing the half shaft to receed into the rear diff.
I would check to see if you have a stub axle dust shield grinding away at the rear diff case.
Alternately I would check the play in the rear axle bearings. Jack it up and see how much play you have in the bearing. Bearing could also be dry.
Check the ujoints for grease, if the greasable type.
I would check to see if you have a stub axle dust shield grinding away at the rear diff case.
Alternately I would check the play in the rear axle bearings. Jack it up and see how much play you have in the bearing. Bearing could also be dry.
Check the ujoints for grease, if the greasable type.
Last edited by REELAV8R; 03-11-2017 at 01:08 PM.
#10
Race Director
I will wait for some feed back IF he checks the rear wheel bearing and U-joints.
I am still feeling that it is NOT the differential fluid.
DUB
I am still feeling that it is NOT the differential fluid.
DUB
#11
Le Mans Master
#14
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: perth western australia
Posts: 3,099
Received 599 Likes
on
533 Posts
my 77 diff sounded same as in the regular knock noise but instead of the knock it was a metal crunching sound .
I didn't think we would make it home , but I nursed it and got home . Changed the fluid(which was black) and two bottles of additive and amazingly it stopped doing it ,I was already for a renewal and all but .....
Just as a side note the fluid in it was about two years old ,not too many miles done in that time .
I didn't think we would make it home , but I nursed it and got home . Changed the fluid(which was black) and two bottles of additive and amazingly it stopped doing it ,I was already for a renewal and all but .....
Just as a side note the fluid in it was about two years old ,not too many miles done in that time .
#15
Le Mans Master
#17
Race Director
I am still going with an issue at the wheel area (bearing or universal joints).
I guess we all will soon find out. Hopefully.
DUB
I guess we all will soon find out. Hopefully.
DUB
#18
Intermediate
Hi. I am interested as well to the solution for this problem. My 78 makes a similar noise though not as bad and not very often. Maybe once every 2 months and only after it has warmed up. It only started a little while after my diff had the yokes fixed and the rear bearings were replaced.
I am hoping it is only an extra bottle of diff additive needed.
I am hoping it is only an extra bottle of diff additive needed.
#19
Race Director
With DUB
I am hoping it is only an extra bottle of diff additive needed.[/QUOTE]
Just a few thoughts:
A quick PIA check - I would drive until the noise starts then pull over somewhere safe and feel the universals - they may be very warm.... if one is red hot - that one is bad. It's harder with the hub bearings due to the heat from the brakes, but if one is much hotter than the other I would then check that hub.
If you have or can get an inferred thermometer check the temps it will be more accurate.
An outside chance is a binding shock / caliper that heats up and grabs / binds internally.
I am hoping it is only an extra bottle of diff additive needed.[/QUOTE]
Just a few thoughts:
A quick PIA check - I would drive until the noise starts then pull over somewhere safe and feel the universals - they may be very warm.... if one is red hot - that one is bad. It's harder with the hub bearings due to the heat from the brakes, but if one is much hotter than the other I would then check that hub.
If you have or can get an inferred thermometer check the temps it will be more accurate.
An outside chance is a binding shock / caliper that heats up and grabs / binds internally.