lol.

 

looks really good,

that's about where I stopped mine also

Neal

 

Wrap does work for lowering temps. but does cause pipe damage, if you run it enough the damage wont be rust as stated above,
The damage is from the steel pipes getting super hot under the wrap and the inside layers of the steel will turn red and peel off like an orange.
After a while, maybe a year or two the headers will get real thin,from the inside out, and will crumble. A turbo wraped up will not do this because most of them are made from Cast Iron and will last a long time.

 

Hello All,

I'll briefly touch on this as many have their own opinions and thoughts on the subject of wrapping headers. We've been in business for over 20 years manufacturing and selling exhaust wraps. There are many different "recipes" of engines, header manufactures, coatings, installations, and other factors that can play into this subject. In general most wrapped headers with a high temp header paint or silicone spray will last many years and provide many years of service. Metal fatigue can occur if header/pipes are double/triple wrapped or have a thicker ceramic coating on them and then wrapped over. Which is typically why we only recommend 1 layer of wrap with a 1/4" overlap. Also, wraps are a woven material so they still allow headers/pipes to "breathe" and do completely encase pipes. Again, most of the time even a wrapped pipe with a ceramic coating you will still see a long service life. Let's not forget either that headers themselves do not last forever and also have a service life and different manufacturers use different types of metals and wall thicknesses. As for pipes degrading from the inside out, things like condensation sitting in pipes, a thicker ceramic coating, living by salt water, or just a vehicle sitting can also attribute to this happening. Take this information how you want. I just wanted to point out some factors that get over looked and in many cases the exhaust wrap is blamed for some of these things happening. Please feel free to contact me if anyone has any questions.

Happy Halloween,

Tim

 

Tim, I have a question.....

DEI offers a variety of self adhesive heat barriers/reflective materials. If someone were line the exterior of their floorboards (under body) which of your products would work best? Are they best suited for 'track only' applications or do they hold up well (stay stuck) when used for daily drivers?

http://designengineering.com/product...ive-materials/

(I've wrapped under body wires with Cool Tape)

 

Hi Jim,

Check out our Floor and Tunnel II material. It is a 3/16" thick dimpled aluminum facing with glass mat backing, and uses an aggressive pressure sensitive adhesive. It will fold, bend, and hold shape. It also cuts pretty easily with tin snips or a heavy duty pair of scissor. This material is designed to be used on the under side of vehicles. We have had it on everything from motorcycles to trophy trucks with great results. http://designengineering.com/floor-t...e-heat-shield/ . Please let me know if you have any other questions.

Thank you,

Tim

 

On the street, ever header I have ever seen wrapped, got thrown away after it was unwrapped, due to corrosion.
On the street you get water, = big sponge wrapped around metal pipes. = corrosion !

 

Hi 69Vett,

Please see my post from earlier in the thread about different pipes an conditions.

Yes, water on the street does happen. However typically headers are usually running hot enough to burn or steam off any moisture, no different than an un-wrapped pipe. Hence, part of the reason for wrapping pipes, heat.

If you any questions or if I can help with anything please feel free to contact me.

Thank you, Tim

 

This is so intuitively obvious to even the casual thinker.

Have you ever touched the exhaust accidentally just before the muffler after driving the car. If this is not hot enough to dry wrap this far back, I don't know what to say.

I also try not to drive in the rain - not because its a Vette, but because wipers want to chatter and washer pump not working.

 

I put a layer of the Floor and Tunnel II above the exhaust pipes and along the tunnel where the factory insulation wasn't a year or two ago and it works very well, installed easy and 2 seasons later it's still firmly in place.




I also had the section of pipe from the firewall back to the floor kickup wrapped in the lava whatever (don't recall the brand, may have been DEI) and it made a difference in the heat as well. Aluminized pipe and when I removed it to take the transmission out two years ago there was no indication of corrosion on the pipe and different than anywhere else. That said I don't drive in the rain if at all possible and the pipe in those areas don't have any collectors or pockets to trap moisture...
M

 

Tim, I sent an email to you about some wrap I need for the exhaust pipe that travels under a fiberglass monoleaf rear spring.

I have to shield the fiberglass spring from the heat of the exhaust pipe. Would the Floor and Tunnel ll barrier be better for this application? Thank you

 

this ^^^

 

Hey Jim. I'm getting ready to wrap my pipes also to lower under hood temps. Did you see a signifcant reduction in heat?