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I see why it was tossed, back looks melted but is appears to work.
Im looking forward to seeing what it says at idle, cruise and wot on my 77 l48 smogger.
this gauge matches the other gauges perfectly.
Trying to mount it quick and dirty, maybe a simple bracket. It could replace the clock with it
but that seems like too much work mounting. I mostly want to use it to improve driveability.
I ordered a weld in bung that I will install as soon as it comes in.
Sensor heats up then display goes full lean so it appears to work.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I bought one of those cheap A pillar molded single hole brackets and heated it with a heat gun and tried my luck molding it to the Vette A pillar so it wouldnt look out of place or be permanent. Its not bad for a rookie with a heat gun and the dye makes it blend in more. Its right where I can ssee it so I dont take my eyes offf the road, especially at W.O.T. . And aat night my let hand on the wheel can easily block it so the lights dont get annoying
Just FYI - you can buy those so-called "spark plug non-foulers" at your local hardware store to use as weld-in O2 sensor bung-holes. I just got some yesterday at Autozone ( 2 for under 5 bucks). Cut the tip off and they fit nicely (into a tight 3/4" hole saw hole).... and they come with a "shoulder so that you don't have to hold it for welding. I acutally have a real aftermarket bung and I'm not using it.
I have my A/F ratio gauge in the clock hole.
Originally Posted by Greengear
I see why it was tossed, back looks melted but is appears to work.
Im looking forward to seeing what it says at idle, cruise and wot on my 77 l48 smogger.
this gauge matches the other gauges perfectly.
Trying to mount it quick and dirty, maybe a simple bracket. It could replace the clock with it
but that seems like too much work mounting. I mostly want to use it to improve driveability.
I ordered a weld in bung that I will install as soon as it comes in.
Sensor heats up then display goes full lean so it appears to work.
Just FYI - you can buy those so-called "spark plug non-foulers" at your local hardware store to use as weld-in O2 sensor bung-holes. I just got some yesterday at Autozone ( 2 for under 5 bucks). Cut the tip off and they fit nicely (into a tight 3/4" hole saw hole).... and they come with a "shoulder so that you don't have to hold it for welding. I acutally have a real aftermarket bung and I'm not using it.
I have my A/F ratio gauge in the clock hole.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
mine does the same thing WOT if I stomp on it, the resst of it is fine. I'm going to investigate it more next spring.
When you weld in the bung, if you bought a plug for it, install the plug with anti seize then weld it in, it will keep the bung round and splatter free.
Which carb are you running? Now the fun starts and you can really dial it in.
its a quadra jet. Original owner said it is not correct for the car. I did notice the port meant for switched vacuum to distributor shown in the manual seems like an un drilled boss on my carb.
Decoded the serial and it says 1977 automatic so maybe it is the correct carb for my car. Except the chart of serials I found doesnt seem to specify corvette from other chevys.
I want to send this q jet to Lars but I want to rule out other stuff before sending out carb.
I tried turning the idle mix screws but it doesnt seem
to effect wot mixture much.
Other symptoms are miss at idle and high idle speed despite curb idle screw completely loose.
I already set timing to Lar’s instuctions and double checked.
Vacuum advance disconnected
base 14.5 degrees
high rpm 37
vacuum connected
idle 27
high rpm 43
It seems like a vacuum leak at idle but I checked vacuum tubes, experimented with plugging off all lines, played with starter spray no obvious vacuum leaks. Vacuum ( as shown on my crappy mightvac hand pump gage) seems steady close to 20 inches. Car has a high crappy idle and seems a bit under powered and fuel hungry.
Im tempted to get a fuel injection kit but I want to iron out issues other than fuel the decide quadro rebuild or efi
mine does the same thing WOT if I stomp on it, the resst of it is fine. I'm going to investigate it more next spring.
When you weld in the bung, if you bought a plug for it, install the plug with anti seize then weld it in, it will keep the bung round and splatter free.
The threads did get splattered and maybe distorted. I ended up cutting two slots in the threads of the unused spark plug anti foul to make a poor mans tap and chased the threads.
I also didnt have, couldnt find steel welding rod so I used silphos 15% silver hvac industry brazing rod. It seemed to flow nicley and pulled into the part of the joint I couldnt reach with capilary action. My tiny oxy act hvac torch tip was maxed out trying to get the big exhaust pipe wall hot enough for the brazing material to stick and flow.
Went on a longer more spirited drive and mixture seemed reasonably close to 14.7 most of the time.
Then the gauge went full rich and stayed there for the rest of the drive, car did not suddenly change. I think the free gauge or sensor has passed away.
Ill give it another try maybe clean off the sensor.
It was a cool tool while it lasted but I am not sure if I will pay the better part of $200 to replace it.
11-03-2018, 04:04 PM
Got a free aem gauge from a junk pile
