getting the trailing arm bolts out
#21
Drifting
[QUOTE=resdoggie;1598305876]Do not dick around with penetrants, punches, hammers, cussing, etc.
I plan to keep the cussing part of this procedure.
I plan to keep the cussing part of this procedure.
#22
Race Director
Buy longer than you think to get into that pocket better.
About $20 worth of blades, only the very ends get worn out but they're more or less toast after the job. Carbide are nice and cut a faster but it'll be more or less toast after the job as well so it's a time ~ money thing
M
#23
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Location: North of Toronto - Ontario
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More of that time / money stuff. If I remember right I kept the one on the left and added to my metal scrap barrel with the rest Most had been bent more than once when they'd bind in the cut, the one on the right was probably the worse based on how it's laying on the floor there
M
M
#24
Race Director
99 percent of the time Sawzall blades are worn out near the tang where the shoe is located. It is rare in most cases (not C3 cases) that the tip is worn out. I’d keep all those blades as the teeth are still good where the shoe is and most cutting is done.
#25
Drifting
Thread Starter
Didn't have much time to work on this today, but managed to get one set of shims out. On a whim I decided to smack them and and they moved. Took about 15 minutes of working them back and forth, but they finally pulled out.
Not bad after 38 years
Meanwhile some mission creep occurred at Lowes. Went to get a Bosch sawzall ($119) and 4 ah battery ($60 - a rip, but used to be $99) as none comes with it. Already have the charger and a couple 1.4 ah bats. Got there and found that if I bought a $229 combo pack hammer drill and drill/driver which comes with two 4 ah batteries and a charger, I could then get the sawzall I wanted for free. Seemed like a good deal - basically for $50 more than I planned to spend I got the drill motors and an extra 4 ah bat. I'm kind of hoping the rest of the shims put up a fight so I can tackle them with the saw.
Not bad after 38 years
Meanwhile some mission creep occurred at Lowes. Went to get a Bosch sawzall ($119) and 4 ah battery ($60 - a rip, but used to be $99) as none comes with it. Already have the charger and a couple 1.4 ah bats. Got there and found that if I bought a $229 combo pack hammer drill and drill/driver which comes with two 4 ah batteries and a charger, I could then get the sawzall I wanted for free. Seemed like a good deal - basically for $50 more than I planned to spend I got the drill motors and an extra 4 ah bat. I'm kind of hoping the rest of the shims put up a fight so I can tackle them with the saw.
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vince vette 2 (11-14-2018)
#28
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
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Royal Canadian Navy
You only need to make two cuts, one per side. Cut the bolt on the inboard side of the bushing. With the nut removed from the bolt on the outboard end, the two bolt pieces and bushing should fall out. Also, as the teeth wear down on the tip of the blade, cut the tip off i.e. shorten the blade, and go at it again.
#30
Safety Car
#31
Drifting
For a job like this where you will be doing extended cutting, I would recommend a corded Sawzall. A battery powered one will work but you will go through batteries/charges. Definitely a byatch of a job.
#34
Drifting
Thread Starter
#36
Drifting
Thread Starter
You only need to make two cuts, one per side. Cut the bolt on the inboard side of the bushing. With the nut removed from the bolt on the outboard end, the two bolt pieces and bushing should fall out. Also, as the teeth wear down on the tip of the blade, cut the tip off i.e. shorten the blade, and go at it again.
#37
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The bolts tend to be stuck in the bushing not so much in the shims. Usually that's why you need to cut both sides as the center of the bolt is firmly stuck inside the bushing.
M
M
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Peterbuilt (11-14-2018)
#39
Drifting
Thread Starter
Never mind.
Just decided to cut the outboard part of the screw. 1 down, one to go.
Here's a closeup of the bushing. Inside it still seems pretty solid. Is that just deceptive.
90,000 miles, 38 years
Just decided to cut the outboard part of the screw. 1 down, one to go.
Here's a closeup of the bushing. Inside it still seems pretty solid. Is that just deceptive.
90,000 miles, 38 years
#40
Drifting
Thread Starter