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The only way to go. On sbc there are 2 different ones depending on the timing cover you use, early and late have different thickness of front seal area.
Supposedly, you can reuse them, if they are undamaged (from over-torquing the bolts, etc). The Fel-Pro one-piece gasket has little plastic pieces imbedded at each bolt hole. This provides you with a pre-set compression distance for the gasket, resulting in more consistent sealing. And, even Fel-Pro suggests using a bit of RTV in the joint areas....not for their gasket, but for the mating parts at those points.
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my new replacement timing chain cover had severe issues with the crank seal and it all had to come off. It destroyed the gasket getting it all apart. Theydo work, it didnt leak at all, just the seal from the crappy cover.
The only way to go. On sbc there are 2 different ones depending on the timing cover you use, early and late have different thickness of front seal area.
Difference is oil pans not timing cover......
Because the timing cover was replace I bought a new gasket. Old one looked OK. Cost was reasonable.
I use both types...cork and the Fel-pro one-piece...and I really do not have a preference. When installing the four piece style oil pan gaskets...as long as I am using good RTV....the gaskets do not fall down and I have had great success with them.
And the Fel-pro does kind of screw up and makes one where it has two holes for the oil dipstick (one on each side) when actually you would think they would get them made right so you do not have blue rubber gasket hanging out past the edge of the block and pan.
That one-piece gasket IS made right. One design for both oil pan configurations. If they produced both of them, the price for either would be higher.If you don't like the little 'extra' tab sticking out, cut it off.....
Fel-pro makes a one piece gasket for both designs of oil pans where the diastase at the front of the oil pan differ,
The oil pan with the 2 1/4" measurement is a OS34509T and it has only ONE hole for the oil dipstick.
But the one for the 2 3/8" oil pan front measurement is a OS 34510T and it has two holes for the oil dipstick like the photo above shows in POST # 16.
And not meaning to be picky...but if you draw a straight line on the outer edge of the oil pan gasket and cut off that extra material that extends out...look at all of the missing material and potential area of leakage unless you pump something in that area.
They spent the time and money to get one right...but they fall short on the other is all I am saying here and does matter when it is brought up to my customers with a really nice engines where I let them decide if they want a piece of the gasket hanging out like hernia or blue RTV packed in that area that does not match. Most opt for the 4 piece gasket design due to I can get it to seal up and not leak....like so many engines before me that I have seen...and like those that I have done that do not leak a drop.
Unless there is no way to vent engine crankcase pressure (no PCV system), I can't imagine that solid Fel-Pro gasket leaking just due to removing that 'excess' tab. But, that's only my opinion.
Agreed...but go ahead and do it and see if it leaks..and if it does...then do it again....if it does not....then it must be okay. Granted most oil pans I have serviced for decades leak at the front and rear seal area...and few along the sides.
But is it not funny you how valve cover gaskets leak and they have a PCV working but still oil gets out...and it is not also funny how the left valve cover can leak and that is the valve cover with the PCV and if you figure that if oil can get out...air can get pulled in and it is closer to the PCV so it should be sucking in air due to being so close and the path of least resistance.
12-03-2018, 05:00 PM
