Camshaft Recommendation 76 L48
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Camshaft Recommendation 76 L48
Hi all, I have my radiator and timing chain cover out due to leaks to both in my 76; I'm toying around with the idea of putting a light street camshaft in. I'm just wanting to ask for any recommendations on a light cam and what kind of horsepower gain I could expect with it. Also, I'd like to ask what other work I can expect to do if I proceed with a new cam besides removing/reinstalling the timing chain, sprockets with the engine in. Does the AC condenser need to come out? I've never installed a cam in a Chevy V8. I've only installed one in a Jeep 4.0L straight 6. Thanks.
#2
Le Mans Master
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summit K1102 kit hydraulic flat tappets
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k1102?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-summit-racing&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7qyhvcK33wIVGon ICh2PoQ47EAQYASABEgKgwfD_BwE
.204/ 214, .421/ .444
1st ... verify it's on true TDC. Remove the fuel pump and pull FP rod out an inch or so. Then lean the AC forward don't disconnect, replace timing chain set w/ new, replace the distributor's intermediate shaft retainer w/ new (you MUST pull dist in order to pull/replace camshaft.} Smear ALL cam lobes, cam's dist gear and distributor's gear with Moly Paste. A new set of "Z28" valve springs would be a good idea. Break in cam according to the many methods available online.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k1102?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-summit-racing&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7qyhvcK33wIVGon ICh2PoQ47EAQYASABEgKgwfD_BwE
.204/ 214, .421/ .444
1st ... verify it's on true TDC. Remove the fuel pump and pull FP rod out an inch or so. Then lean the AC forward don't disconnect, replace timing chain set w/ new, replace the distributor's intermediate shaft retainer w/ new (you MUST pull dist in order to pull/replace camshaft.} Smear ALL cam lobes, cam's dist gear and distributor's gear with Moly Paste. A new set of "Z28" valve springs would be a good idea. Break in cam according to the many methods available online.
Last edited by jackson; 12-23-2018 at 10:44 PM.
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NewbVetteGuy (12-26-2018)
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks Jackson, do you know if the ac condenser needs to come out in order to get the camshafts out and in? Is there enough room to do it without removing it?
#4
Le Mans Master
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NOPE! YUP! The A/C condenser remains intact. However, you will need to remove the upper bracket bolts and insert a piece wood to jamb the condenser forward about one inch.
By reattaching the cam sprocket (without the chain) with one bolt, the sprocket is used as leverage to help you pull the cam slowly past the cam bearings. At mid point or more, remove the sprocket. The end of the cam will "just" clear the A/C condenser.
But first, scribe a line around your hood hinges with a Sharpie for future reference. Get some help to remove the hood prop and hinge bolts. Store the hood against a wall with the cowl down.
By reattaching the cam sprocket (without the chain) with one bolt, the sprocket is used as leverage to help you pull the cam slowly past the cam bearings. At mid point or more, remove the sprocket. The end of the cam will "just" clear the A/C condenser.
But first, scribe a line around your hood hinges with a Sharpie for future reference. Get some help to remove the hood prop and hinge bolts. Store the hood against a wall with the cowl down.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; 12-24-2018 at 08:33 AM.
#5
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
Old school cam but an Isky 264 mega cam works good, 256 if your idle needs to be real smooth.
Make sure and upgade springs/seals while youre at it. They are dirt cheap for small flat tappets
Make sure and upgade springs/seals while youre at it. They are dirt cheap for small flat tappets
#6
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If it's going to remain pretty mild..the old Comp 268H (not the Xtreme) is a dead reliable cam that doesn't hurt parts, sounds good and runs well. Certainly there are some that will make more power maybe...but this is simple and works well.
JIM
JIM
#7
Le Mans Master
The issue with the stock motor is low compression. Advertised @8.5:1 reality is that it’s about 7.6:1.
so the cams recommended so far would be good for 8.5:1 but very doggy for 7.6:1.
given this I would lean more towards a comp cam 262H or similar as it would give you better bottom end and acceleration with a lower peak torque rpm. Stay away from the xe series, many wiped lobe issues on that series.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...x?csid=72&sb=2
so the cams recommended so far would be good for 8.5:1 but very doggy for 7.6:1.
given this I would lean more towards a comp cam 262H or similar as it would give you better bottom end and acceleration with a lower peak torque rpm. Stay away from the xe series, many wiped lobe issues on that series.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...x?csid=72&sb=2
#8
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The issue with the stock motor is low compression. Advertised @8.5:1 reality is that it’s about 7.6:1.
so the cams recommended so far would be good for 8.5:1 but very doggy for 7.6:1.
given this I would lean more towards a comp cam 262H or similar as it would give you better bottom end and acceleration with a lower peak torque rpm. Stay away from the xe series, many wiped lobe issues on that series.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...x?csid=72&sb=2
so the cams recommended so far would be good for 8.5:1 but very doggy for 7.6:1.
given this I would lean more towards a comp cam 262H or similar as it would give you better bottom end and acceleration with a lower peak torque rpm. Stay away from the xe series, many wiped lobe issues on that series.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...x?csid=72&sb=2
#9
I would pull the engine and do it on a stand. Cam change in a C-3 is a PITA.
#10
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Lots & lots more work. I could pull the cam in half the time you are preparing to pull the engine. Its not a bad job with the hood off. Hardest part is timing cover / oil pan clearance. But its do-able.
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Primoz (10-22-2021)
#11
Le Mans Master
To compliment the cam change long tube headers would be nice. somewhere around 1 5/8" primaries with a 2" - 2 1/2" dual exhaust system.
Last edited by REELAV8R; 12-24-2018 at 03:09 PM.
#12
Had the Isky 264 mega cam in my 76 L82 with AT. Lots better low and mid range than the L82 cam. Isky 262 super cam, 208-208 .435 lift 108 lsa may work better with your low c r if you have an AT.
#13
Le Mans Master
if I put the isky 264 in an L48 I would want a good 2500 or so stall torque converter to get up into the operating range of the cam better.
#14
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The 268H was THE go to cam in the late 80's early 90's..........the XE cams make more power.......but I have had a couple go flat......even with all of the precautions.......
I would recommend the Magnum cam to anyone with a stock L-48. Use an Elgin drop in Z/28 spring kit with new seals........this cam with a 2101 Ede and long tubes with a nice curve makes for lots of smiles......
You will pickup about 80 horsepower and 50 ft/lb torque.....but you will see the torque have HUGE increases off idle to midrange.......
I have done this upgrade to three L-48's and they run like scalded *** apes compared to stock and the owner is always back for heads in a year due to "the fever" LOL!
Jebby
Last edited by Jebbysan; 12-26-2018 at 10:18 AM.
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This is dead on true.......these break in nice and make good sounds and power......they are the Magnum series cams......I have a 292H Magnum in my own 406 that is ground on a 108LSA......one of my favorite cams of all time.......there are some that may squeeze out 3% more power........but none that sound like a tight single pattern cam.......
The 268H was THE go to cam in the late 80's early 90's..........the XE cams make more power.......but I have had a couple go flat......even with all of the precautions.......
I would recommend the Magnum cam to anyone with a stock L-48. Use an Elgin drop in Z/28 spring kit with new seals........this cam with a 2101 Ede and long tubes with a nice curve makes for lots of smiles......
You will pickup about 80 horsepower and 50 ft/lb torque.....but you will see the torque have HUGE increases off idle to midrange.......
I have done this upgrade to three L-48's and they run like scalded *** apes compared to stock and the owner is always back for heads in a year due to "the fever" LOL!
Jebby
The 268H was THE go to cam in the late 80's early 90's..........the XE cams make more power.......but I have had a couple go flat......even with all of the precautions.......
I would recommend the Magnum cam to anyone with a stock L-48. Use an Elgin drop in Z/28 spring kit with new seals........this cam with a 2101 Ede and long tubes with a nice curve makes for lots of smiles......
You will pickup about 80 horsepower and 50 ft/lb torque.....but you will see the torque have HUGE increases off idle to midrange.......
I have done this upgrade to three L-48's and they run like scalded *** apes compared to stock and the owner is always back for heads in a year due to "the fever" LOL!
Jebby
JIM
#16
Dr. Detroit
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Those cams are a little "tricker" than folks know. Harold Brookshire (of Ultradyne fame) designed them when he worked for Comp. They are single pattern, but have asymetrical lobes that change the dynamics on opening vs closing sides. I ran one in a 350 back to back against the old Duntov. WOT was about identical...but driveability was better on the Comp. That was in a '64 Vette with 3.36's and a close ratio..so low speed power was a necessity. Later I stuck some flat tops in it with a set of iron "Turbo" heads and it ran killer (mid/low 12's on street tires) and still got 21 MPG!
JIM
JIM
It seems Comp changed their catalog too....the 268H used to be a Magnum cam......now it is High Energy......oh well....same cam.
Jebby
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When they first came out they were "High Energy". Were actually a big deal in late 70's/early 80's as a good thing for hot rods that still wanted to keep some gas mileage on a mild engine. Marketed as "best of both worlds" type deal....
I think the 268H is only like 218* @.050" and about .454" lift maybe? Has a slight lope but works with a stock converter if necessary. The 262 and 256 versions are real mild.
Simple and work..they are on 110 LSA's stock.
JIM
I think the 268H is only like 218* @.050" and about .454" lift maybe? Has a slight lope but works with a stock converter if necessary. The 262 and 256 versions are real mild.
Simple and work..they are on 110 LSA's stock.
JIM
#18
Dr. Detroit
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When they first came out they were "High Energy". Were actually a big deal in late 70's/early 80's as a good thing for hot rods that still wanted to keep some gas mileage on a mild engine. Marketed as "best of both worlds" type deal....
I think the 268H is only like 218* @.050" and about .454" lift maybe? Has a slight lope but works with a stock converter if necessary. The 262 and 256 versions are real mild.
Simple and work..they are on 110 LSA's stock.
JIM
I think the 268H is only like 218* @.050" and about .454" lift maybe? Has a slight lope but works with a stock converter if necessary. The 262 and 256 versions are real mild.
Simple and work..they are on 110 LSA's stock.
JIM
Hmmmmm.......my memory must be getting bad......but you are probably right....the 268H is High Energy........the 270H is a magnum with 224@.050 and .470 lift.......this is a great cam too with stock heads and a 4 speed.......
Jebby
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The Magnum cams are a different series I think. The Magnums are pretty old school also but can do OK.
JIM
JIM
#20
Le Mans Master
Yes......those are the specs.......the 268H put Comp on the map back then........
Hmmmmm.......my memory must be getting bad......but you are probably right....the 268H is High Energy........the 270H is a magnum with 224@.050 and .470 lift.......this is a great cam too with stock heads and a 4 speed.......
Jebby
Hmmmmm.......my memory must be getting bad......but you are probably right....the 268H is High Energy........the 270H is a magnum with 224@.050 and .470 lift.......this is a great cam too with stock heads and a 4 speed.......
Jebby
My current 71' 350/270hp motor has a Crane Repro L79 cam, it runs, drives, sounds fine....but its a freakin dog.(the motor, not the cam).