C3 1976 Rear spring help please
#1
C3 1976 Rear spring help please
Hope you guys can help. I have read countless threads on this, but nothing seems to match what I have going on. The car is new to me with no history of its past. The passenger side rear sits 1.5" low as measured from the ground to top of fender well opening. Tires inflated the same and measured to make sure. It had a 8 leaf, so I hoped wrong or worn spring was the issue. Bought new 9 leaf. Ride height increased about 1", but still had over a 1" difference. I have measured front- all good. Body bushing measure same compression. Frame crossframe to ground measurement follows ride height sloping to passenger.
What I did- feel very bad about this, but to prove to myself what is happening- I installed 14 grade 8 washers (about 1.5") between castle nut and large bushing washer to effectively shorten passenger side bolt. This brought car to withing 1/4" level. So closer that if you measure ground to crossframe now it is dead on. Everything looks perfect - except you can see the obvious difference in spring deflection to hold the car level.
What I feel it needs is a pinion shim like you would use on standard style springs but in my case a 2-3 degree angle that the spring is mounted to axle housing. Then spring tension would be good side to side.
Again, front end is dead level. Body is level to frame. rear wheel centers to frame were all that was out. It was even obvious in driveshaft angle.
I know something very obvious to one of you guys will scream at you, but it is alluding me.
What I did- feel very bad about this, but to prove to myself what is happening- I installed 14 grade 8 washers (about 1.5") between castle nut and large bushing washer to effectively shorten passenger side bolt. This brought car to withing 1/4" level. So closer that if you measure ground to crossframe now it is dead on. Everything looks perfect - except you can see the obvious difference in spring deflection to hold the car level.
What I feel it needs is a pinion shim like you would use on standard style springs but in my case a 2-3 degree angle that the spring is mounted to axle housing. Then spring tension would be good side to side.
Again, front end is dead level. Body is level to frame. rear wheel centers to frame were all that was out. It was even obvious in driveshaft angle.
I know something very obvious to one of you guys will scream at you, but it is alluding me.
#2
Race Director
I would jack up the car so it is level to a height that you can get under the car.
Make sure the car is well supported.
Measure each frame to level ground to make sure it's level.
Now check the spring mount on the rear differential cover to see if it is level. If not check the diff mount and cross brace.
You should see something out of whack in that area.
Just remember if a front spring is bad it will affect the rear also. To test this jack up the car from the front just off the ground and measure the frame to ground under the front door as a reference. Both sides equal.
If the spring mount is tilted the car will tilt. If the diff is tilted - same. Check all mounts and bushings.
If you drop the spare tire tub it may reveal some issues and make life easier.
Make sure the car is well supported.
Measure each frame to level ground to make sure it's level.
Now check the spring mount on the rear differential cover to see if it is level. If not check the diff mount and cross brace.
You should see something out of whack in that area.
Just remember if a front spring is bad it will affect the rear also. To test this jack up the car from the front just off the ground and measure the frame to ground under the front door as a reference. Both sides equal.
If the spring mount is tilted the car will tilt. If the diff is tilted - same. Check all mounts and bushings.
If you drop the spare tire tub it may reveal some issues and make life easier.
Last edited by BLUE1972; 12-23-2018 at 11:56 PM.
#3
We have a 4 post lift, so I’m doing all these measurements from under the car. So, the rear diff can be mounted out of level? That’s what it “feels” like in my mind with what I had to do to fix it.
#4
Also, the diff bolts to the cross frame as I call it. That is now level that the body is level. I measured the rear diff spring bracket 3 times sure it was casted out of level
#5
First if you have a new spring in the rear. I would remove the two front springs and make sure there is identical , or preferably replace with a known set of springs .
If one side of the rear Is down the the opposite side front has to be up . If the chassis is not bent.
measure chassis to ground on a level surface , before measuring body.
bfit
If one side of the rear Is down the the opposite side front has to be up . If the chassis is not bent.
measure chassis to ground on a level surface , before measuring body.
bfit
Last edited by bfit; 12-24-2018 at 12:15 AM.
#6
So, while rear was out of level-frontwas level. After rear is level-front is still level. I have assumed frame bent also, but since my car is now level and crossframeabove diff side to side is also level, I’m baffled as to what could be put.
I think ill put car back on lift and support frame level. Then remove spring and put level on axle diff. It has to be out, but I don’t see how it could be out. Doesn’t iount directly to frame which sits against body?
I think ill put car back on lift and support frame level. Then remove spring and put level on axle diff. It has to be out, but I don’t see how it could be out. Doesn’t iount directly to frame which sits against body?
#8
Race Director
Make sure the front springs are both properly mounted and the spring ends are locked into the spring pockets.
If one of the spring ends is not resting in the pocket it will throw everything out.
If one of the spring ends is not resting in the pocket it will throw everything out.
#10
Race Director
The spring mount had 2 " tabs" that extend out from the diff cover which is the spring mount. If these are out of level even a slight amount - it will show up as a much larger deviation at the frame rail. due to the length away from the center of the car. I would take the spare tire tub out and double check the area.
If you can :
Jack up the car in the rear.
Remove both spring to trailing arm bolts.
Measure how far down the spring drops on both sides - should be the same.
Measure to the trailing arm spring mount hole both sides to the frame.- should be the same.
The only other variable is the shock. If a shock is bad it can upset the car. to test - set spring as normal - equal length both sides - remove the shocks, put the car on the ground and see if the car is level.
If you can :
Jack up the car in the rear.
Remove both spring to trailing arm bolts.
Measure how far down the spring drops on both sides - should be the same.
Measure to the trailing arm spring mount hole both sides to the frame.- should be the same.
The only other variable is the shock. If a shock is bad it can upset the car. to test - set spring as normal - equal length both sides - remove the shocks, put the car on the ground and see if the car is level.
#11
Le Mans Master
In other words, the two red lines (on your rear cover) are not parallel.
If that's the case, it should be easy to verify by just comparing the two measurements at A and B. If the two measurements are the same, the rear cover is probably cast correctly, but if the rear cross member is bent, that could cause the rear to shift and create the same effect/result.
Good luck... GUSTO
#12
Team Owner
Good luck!
#13
Melting Slicks
That is what was wrong with my '70. it sat low on the drivers side. PO had the rear spring reset by a local spring making company but it made no difference so he gave up, I replaced the front springs and the car sits level now. FWIW both the original springs were the same length when I removed them.
#14
I measured the front and it is dead level from control arms and any other points I can find to ground.
The rear casting is cast straight.
It must be in rear. I’m starting to wonder if cross brace is bent. Even a couple degrees might do this I would guess.
Wed ill I’ll be back in shop to look at. I think I’ll jack car on 4 post rolling jack( jealousy is really abound by now) 😂 then remove spring from both sides and hopefully I can see what part is out of level. I’ll take pics. Thanks everyone for the help.
This is the car I’ve wanted since HS, I’m 52 now. Finally money, time, the right car, and all other things in the universe have lined up.
The rear casting is cast straight.
It must be in rear. I’m starting to wonder if cross brace is bent. Even a couple degrees might do this I would guess.
Wed ill I’ll be back in shop to look at. I think I’ll jack car on 4 post rolling jack( jealousy is really abound by now) 😂 then remove spring from both sides and hopefully I can see what part is out of level. I’ll take pics. Thanks everyone for the help.
This is the car I’ve wanted since HS, I’m 52 now. Finally money, time, the right car, and all other things in the universe have lined up.
Last edited by BobRiley; 12-24-2018 at 02:28 PM.
#15
#16
Le Mans Master
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Hi and welcome!
First thing is to stop guessing and measure the frame,
The measurements can be found in your 76 Service Manual and look like this from the 74 book.
Take off the extra washers as they are not a proper fix.
The measurements can be found in your 76 Service Manual and look like this from the 74 book.
Take off the extra washers as they are not a proper fix.
#17
Le Mans Master
I've personally never seen a casting that appeared to have been incorrectly cast, but one person here who might have is Gary Ramadi, (GTR1999) who's probably looked at as many different castings as anyone here. He may stop by this post and comment, or you could send him a PM and ask him. I would be more inclined to think the cross-member or one of the sombrero's that attach it to the frame is at fault first.
Again, good luck... GUSTO
Last edited by GUSTO14; 12-24-2018 at 02:53 PM.