C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Rebuilding Control Arms... Ouch...

Old 01-02-2019, 05:57 PM
  #1  
NewbVetteGuy
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
 
NewbVetteGuy's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2016
Location: Woodinville WA
Posts: 2,980
Received 332 Likes on 281 Posts
Default Rebuilding Control Arms... Ouch...

I got to do a little bit of rust remediation inside the engine bay this weekend and just hitting everything with some high pressure air made most of the rubber bushings of my driver's side control arm go flying out. -They're in absolutely TERRIBLE shape.

I've only started to investigate removing and rebuilding the control arms and WOW, it looks like a whole lot of pain. -VTech charges $850 plus two way shipping for them to rebuild a set so I'm assuming that this is pretty painful.

I don't have a hydraulic press and drilling out rivets sound like the kind of thing I could majorly screw up. How doable is this?

Are there obvious upgrades that should be made at this point?
-Jegs has upper control arms that are adjustable brand new for $193 each and whatever these are for $242 each....
https://www.jegs.com/i/Specialty-Pro...619f35fb0b1ef4

https://www.jegs.com/i/Specialty-Pro...5b72803a767f17


Adam
Old 01-02-2019, 06:52 PM
  #2  
Big2Bird
Le Mans Master
 
Big2Bird's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,823
Received 1,014 Likes on 808 Posts

Default

I just have to say in High School I bought a new one at a dealer for $32.00

It's just basic skills. Not rocket science.
Grind the heads off the rivets. Use a air chisel to knock out the bushings.

Use a spreader when knocking them back in. It's all the the shop manual.
Old 01-02-2019, 06:55 PM
  #3  
jackson
Le Mans Master

 
jackson's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
Posts: 7,739
Received 628 Likes on 556 Posts

Default

this thread
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-bushings.html
The following users liked this post:
NewbVetteGuy (01-02-2019)
Old 01-02-2019, 06:56 PM
  #4  
jb78L-82
Le Mans Master
 
jb78L-82's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 7,114
Received 740 Likes on 617 Posts

Default

Adam,

I did my OEM control arms upper and lower about 10 years ago and went with poly urethane from prothane...Best thing I ever did to tighten up the handling and steering response but little effect on ride quality.

The upper control arms are relatively easy...just need to remove the upper ball joint from the steering arm spindle, and the 2 nuts holding the cross shaft...this is a simplistic explanation but it is not that hard.

The lower control arm bolts to the frame, requires removal of the lower ball joint, sway bar endlink, shock removal, AND coil spring removal. It is a lot more work and you need to be careful with the spring removal.

I messed around with removing the control arm bushings and pressing in one of the poly ones before deciding it was a ton of work, if you don't have the proper tools. I took the control arms to a local machine shop and had them remove and install the new poly control arm bushings for about $25 per arm or $100 for all 4 control arms plus $50 for the poly control arm bushings, upper and lower. Did the whole deal for about $150 for 4 control arms..lots of labor.

Last edited by jb78L-82; 01-02-2019 at 06:59 PM.
The following users liked this post:
NewbVetteGuy (01-02-2019)
Old 01-02-2019, 07:05 PM
  #5  
NewbVetteGuy
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
 
NewbVetteGuy's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2016
Location: Woodinville WA
Posts: 2,980
Received 332 Likes on 281 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jb78L-82
Adam,

I did my OEM control arms upper and lower about 10 years ago and went with poly urethane from prothane...Best thing I ever did to tighten up the handling and steering response but little effect on ride quality.

The upper control arms are relatively easy...just need to remove the upper ball joint from the steering arm spindle, and the 2 nuts holding the cross shaft...this is a simplistic explanation but it is not that hard.

The lower control arm bolts to the frame, requires removal of the lower ball joint, sway bar endlink, shock removal, AND coil spring removal. It is a lot more work and you need to be careful with the spring removal.

I messed around with removing the control arm bushings and pressing in one of the poly ones before deciding it was a ton of work, if you don't have the proper tools. I took the control arms to a local machine shop and had them remove and install the new poly control arm bushings for about $25 per arm or $100 for all 4 control arms plus $50 for the poly control arm bushings, upper and lower. Did the whole deal for about $150 for 4 control arms..lots of labor.
I have a set of 550 lb VB&P front springs that need to go on and set of Bilstein HD's that need to go on the front anyway. (Remember I'm copying you on that front.)
-I have a machine shop I really like, FINALLY and only 20-30 minutes from my house so if I run into trouble that's a definite possibility.

Any thoughts on Del-A-Lum bushings for stock-style control arms? -I've been looking at the Global West catalog... Looks like I'd need some minor welding done on top of the normal press-in procedure to use them.

Also curious about whether GlobalWest's offset upper a-arm shaft is useful as a general rule or is just for specialty applications?


Adam
Old 01-02-2019, 07:12 PM
  #6  
jackson
Le Mans Master

 
jackson's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2001
Location: Unreconstructed, South Carolina
Posts: 7,739
Received 628 Likes on 556 Posts

Default

solid bushings for race cars....harsh & noisy
Old 01-02-2019, 07:21 PM
  #7  
NewbVetteGuy
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
 
NewbVetteGuy's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2016
Location: Woodinville WA
Posts: 2,980
Received 332 Likes on 281 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jackson

That thread is fantastic! Thanks!
-I can give the AutoZone bushing remover/installer tool and my impact a try.


Adam

Last edited by NewbVetteGuy; 01-02-2019 at 07:22 PM.
Old 01-02-2019, 07:27 PM
  #8  
cagotzmann
Melting Slicks
 
cagotzmann's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,960
Received 518 Likes on 357 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by NewbVetteGuy
I got to do a little bit of rust remediation inside the engine bay this weekend and just hitting everything with some high pressure air made most of the rubber bushings of my driver's side control arm go flying out. -They're in absolutely TERRIBLE shape.

I've only started to investigate removing and rebuilding the control arms and WOW, it looks like a whole lot of pain. -VTech charges $850 plus two way shipping for them to rebuild a set so I'm assuming that this is pretty painful.

I don't have a hydraulic press and drilling out rivets sound like the kind of thing I could majorly screw up. How doable is this?

Are there obvious upgrades that should be made at this point?
-Jegs has upper control arms that are adjustable brand new for $193 each and whatever these are for $242 each....
https://www.jegs.com/i/Specialty-Pro...619f35fb0b1ef4

https://www.jegs.com/i/Specialty-Pro...5b72803a767f17


Adam
No need for a press to remove, just burn them out with a propane torch or similar. Clean up the original retainers if in good condition. If using poly the reinstall requires no additional tools / press to install. Did many years ago without any special tools or a press.
Old 01-02-2019, 07:38 PM
  #9  
jim2527
Race Director
 
jim2527's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2003
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 19,008
Received 633 Likes on 426 Posts

Default

Old 01-02-2019, 07:38 PM
  #10  
Metalhead140
Drifting
 
Metalhead140's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2015
Location: NSW, Australia
Posts: 1,939
Received 472 Likes on 344 Posts
C3 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
Default

I've recently put the del-a-lum bushings in my stock lower arms to go with my global west upper arms. I'm very happy with them, but yes they require a little welding - if you were reading the review on summit, that was me. I don't agree that solid bushings are only for race cars, I drive my car a lot. I think the rubber body mounts on our cars serve to eliminate most of the vibration from the driver anyway.
Old 01-02-2019, 07:54 PM
  #11  
george2066
Instructor
 
george2066's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2002
Location: jim thorpe pa
Posts: 223
Received 18 Likes on 15 Posts

Default

i did the same with a torch, then while you are in there, replace the upper shafts with the moog offset ones, but have them machined with a 1/4" slot for more caster Search the threads for the offset arms and modifications
Old 01-02-2019, 08:43 PM
  #12  
jb78L-82
Le Mans Master
 
jb78L-82's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 7,114
Received 740 Likes on 617 Posts

Default

I have no experience with the solid control arm bushings but very happy with the poly ones from prothane. They have been on now for over 10 years, greased them when installed, and they really tightened up the handling and steering response with little to no decrease in ride quality or any noise......I definitely would not use rubber control arm bushings again because with as much slop there is in the suspensions of these cars, anything and everything you can do to tighten the suspension pivot points is a big bonus......
Old 01-02-2019, 09:05 PM
  #13  
ddawson
Le Mans Master
 
ddawson's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Lincoln, CA
Posts: 5,647
Received 597 Likes on 485 Posts

Default

I removed mine and brought them to a local corvette shop who sandblasted and pressed in new bushings.

It only cost me $100 for the labor.

Old 01-02-2019, 10:09 PM
  #14  
BLUE1972
Race Director
 
BLUE1972's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2008
Location: FARMINGDALE N..Y.
Posts: 15,907
Received 1,121 Likes on 731 Posts

Default

I took mine to a local shop that has a press and the tools. I also trust their work. I got the Moog replacements from Rock Auto - get the problem solvers for the top swivel .

Cost me $125 and some bagels. They even painted them black for me.

Last edited by BLUE1972; 01-02-2019 at 10:10 PM.
Old 01-03-2019, 05:46 AM
  #15  
cooper9811
Pro
 
cooper9811's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2009
Location: Marysville Ohio
Posts: 664
Received 88 Likes on 78 Posts

Default

Adam

If you are still interested in the Global West arms with Delrin or Delarum bushings, see this thread I started last summer:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...one-thing.html

Post 21 is probably the most important one, especially if you use the 550-lb springs instead of stock. You have to change out the A-arm spring seat that comes with the arms - I think part #4013,but call Global West to confirm.

Bottom line, I would do it again - but l most things with these cars, you need to go into it armed with some information, and the understanding that very few things are a straight-forward bolt in. Before doing this, I had stock arms with 550-lb springs, Bilstiens, Heim jointed strut rods and a (I think) 360-lb composite rear spring. new arms and composite bushings offer a lot more castor and very little flex in the front - The handling is night and day better (it was good before) - my 79 really sticks to the road now!

Last edited by cooper9811; 01-03-2019 at 05:52 AM.
Old 01-03-2019, 06:54 AM
  #16  
jb78L-82
Le Mans Master
 
jb78L-82's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 7,114
Received 740 Likes on 617 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by cooper9811
Adam

If you are still interested in the Global West arms with Delrin or Delarum bushings, see this thread I started last summer:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...one-thing.html

Post 21 is probably the most important one, especially if you use the 550-lb springs instead of stock. You have to change out the A-arm spring seat that comes with the arms - I think part #4013,but call Global West to confirm.

Bottom line, I would do it again - but l most things with these cars, you need to go into it armed with some information, and the understanding that very few things are a straight-forward bolt in. Before doing this, I had stock arms with 550-lb springs, Bilstiens, Heim jointed strut rods and a (I think) 360-lb composite rear spring. new arms and composite bushings offer a lot more castor and very little flex in the front - The handling is night and day better (it was good before) - my 79 really sticks to the road now!
Cooper, I read your post on the global west control arms and sounds like they really improved the handling.

I have currently 550 front coils, 1 inch shorter than stock, poly upper and lower control arms in front, 1 1/8 OEM front sway bar OEM with poly endlink and mounting bushings, a Speedirect spreader bar, Bilstein HD shock in front only with poly bushings, and a custom blue printed/rebuilt OEM GM steering box by GTR1999. All new Moog balljoints as well with 255/45/17 ZR ultra high performance summer only tires and my car steerings and handles like on rails. Did you have rubber control arm bushings before you went with the global West arms and how much of the handling improvement was from the solid bushings versus the additional caster in the arms? My car is pretty impressive now and wondering if the Global West arms would help?

Last edited by jb78L-82; 01-03-2019 at 06:55 AM.
Old 01-03-2019, 08:35 AM
  #17  
Dennis Tapp
Instructor
Support Corvetteforum!
 
Dennis Tapp's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2017
Posts: 111
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Global West is the best bang for the buck out there. Not as much discussion on them here as others, but enough that I found them. I bought their complete front and rear set up. By my math it only cost me about $800 more than if I bought all new bushings, bearings and powder coated all of the pieces. I did buy on one of their sell events. Plus it gave me a semi coil over front end. Read all and make your own choice. Your committee can get to big if you let it.

Last edited by Dennis Tapp; 01-03-2019 at 08:49 AM.

Get notified of new replies

To Rebuilding Control Arms... Ouch...

Old 01-03-2019, 09:38 AM
  #18  
Big2Bird
Le Mans Master
 
Big2Bird's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,823
Received 1,014 Likes on 808 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Dennis Tapp
Global West is the best bang for the buck out there. Not as much discussion on them here as others, but enough that I found them. I bought their complete front and rear set up. By my math it only cost me about $800 more than if I bought all new bushings, bearings and powder coated all of the pieces. I did buy on one of their sell events. Plus it gave me a semi coil over front end. Read all and make your own choice. Your committee can get to big if you let it.
I was interested till I read they weigh more than stock.

I wish the Speed Direct ones were forged instead of cast.
Old 01-03-2019, 09:42 AM
  #19  
slofut
Racer
 
slofut's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2012
Location: Moultrie Ga
Posts: 253
Received 41 Likes on 37 Posts
Default

Use the air chisel to get the old bushings out, really ...literally a five minute job to get them all out. Or you can spend all sorts of time burning and drilling and repainting.
Old 01-03-2019, 10:16 AM
  #20  
Dennis Tapp
Instructor
Support Corvetteforum!
 
Dennis Tapp's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2017
Posts: 111
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Weight is not an issue for me. No racing. That is why I said best bang for the buck. Not necessarily the best thing you can put on the car. All of these projects are compromise for most. If I had an unlimited budget I would probably have done something different. But I don't.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Rebuilding Control Arms... Ouch...



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:58 PM.