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I am looking for a reliable sandwich adapter to allow for an oil cooler to be installed in an L88 block. Anybody here with any experience to recommend a specific one?
Looking at Summit website and review comments from buyers on an item;
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Updated review: I didn't tighten the fittings very tight since I had PTFE tape on the 1/2 NPT threads and this is just cast aluminum, but the housing still cracked and I was leaking oil. O-ring groove is also poorly machined considering it is a critical sealing surface. Found another brand sandwich adapter for around the same money which is machined from a billet and has more meat where it's needed to prevent these types of failures. Initial Review: Great product for the money. Had to go to a short filter since my pan has a kickout. Looking forward to lower oil temps now that I'm able to send it all through the cooler with this. Sharp machined edge cut me removing from the package. Got to deburr!!
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Yes, but I can't remember which is to/from the cooler. I suggest this book: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw...g+block+chevys Although it doesn't have the latest greatest super trick parts listed, it does give very good info on big blocks using GM parts, although most have been long discontinued.
Chevrolet had an adapter that could be connected up to coolant lines at this adapter location!
They also had oil cooler adapters in two styles that exit toward the front or out the side!
The aftermarket has just about every style known to mankind! A quick search turns up many brands!
I have all all three of those Chevrolet (GM Performance Parts) units. I have Traco Engineering ones and Moroso, etc.
Some have a bypass and some are full flow!
I am a small block guy, build to like Trans Am or F-5000 specs! Generally in the small blocks you put the booster spring in the Z-28 oil pump, if you add all kinds of goodies!
I would see where your running oil pressure is prior to hanging remote coolers, thermostats, filtering, etc
Last edited by TCracingCA; 01-12-2019 at 01:03 AM.
If this is a L88 block, or any 4 bolt main block of C3 vintage. no sandwich adapter is needed. All the provisions for adding an external oil cooler are already there. Here is a page from the 69 Corvette overhaul manual showing oil cooler plumbing.
I am interested in your questions concerning the external oil filter for a L88. Are you building a replica of the L88 or by some chance do you have one of the few real ones?
Back in 1991 my wife and I bought our first Corvette. It is an L-71 Convertible and was running fine but I pulled the engine and rebuilt it like the L88's. I used their pistons, cam and several original L88 parts from the owner of a real L88 whose car was totaled while racing.
I am running 12.25-1 compression ratio and the heads I chose to use are not aluminum like the real L88's came with. Instead I used a GM part Number 3931063 cylinder head using the "Closed Chamber" design inside the combustion chamber. These heads have oval ports and a 100.9 cc chamber. I spent a lot of money prepping the heads, they were ported and polished and the valves enlarged. The only thing original in the heads is the cast iron, they are a real find as they do not like to ping or detonate like the later "Open Chamber" style combustion chambers. The difference is huge, I have a MSD knock sensor to monitor the engine and it really runs great.
Of all the troubles associated with L88 style engine in my originally Big Block Corvette most have been temperature related. I have a "Be Cool" Radiator with dual SPAL fans in a shroud on my radiator. I switched from anti-freeze to a coolant made by EVANS called NPG which is a water-less coolant that will not boil until it reaches temperatures above 400*F. The coolant is used in a non-pressurized cooling system and works very well on high compression engines.
My oil temperatures have always been okay while driving and racing, are you having issues or just trying to prevent one from happening? I do have an 8 qt oil pan which helps with the temps. I am using an MSD ignition system in place of my factory T.I. system and it really helps by pulling my timing back 20* when cranking the engine. I had switched to a gear drive before I found the timing trick so my 68 Corvette sounds like a Chrysler while cranking. I now have a SNOW performance water/methanol injection system that makes my fuel equal to 116 octane (Which makes a BB very happy) and the water drops the combustion temperature enough to be out of the detonation zone. My GTECH Pro told me that it was making over 580 HP to be able to push me into the low 11's (without the water/methanol injection, it adds ~40 hp). I don't want a roll cage and my Hard Top is not sufficient for higher speed passes at the race track. I am content just enjoying the power but am contemplating switching over to a EFI system in the future to make the car more drive-able. To handle the timing issues I am also going to install a J&S Safeguard system this coming spring before the area warms up enough to bring out my 51 year old Corvette. Check out the J&S Safeguard site for information, it is a timing control system that has knock sensors in it. The J&S can retard each cylinder individually and will slowly try to bring full timing back in if possible. This little device is what Bosch designed for the Corvette race cars, it keeps the pistons from breaking during the race from detonation.
Let me know about your project, I have a strong fascination with the L88 Corvettes. If you have been to Corvettes@Carlisle you might have seen a bright yellow L88 REPLICA, I do not and have not ever claimed it was real. It just looks a lot like one and runs like a bat out of heck.
Sounds like you have one sweet Corvette. But given the racing regulations, I can't use modern stuff like you.
My car was originally a 69 convertible 350/350 4 speed M22.
The 427 in it now is a modern reproduction block with aluminum heads built by Mark Jones (Vortecpro).
Here it is on the dyno breaking in:
The car is being modified into an FIA legal L88 Group 4 racer to race in Europe in classic car racing (not pro, but hard enough).
I am trying to do it as close as possible to the originals except for the dry sump for now.
I can't do stuff that was not done back in period. No rollers for example.
So, reinforced chassis, suspension, steering, hubs and some transmission components by Duntov, Autogear M22X, and a few other goodies that I could think of and was willing to pay for.
Finalising the assembly now and making sure there are no major components missing. Hence this oil cooler adapter question.
I am attaching a few pictures of the chassis with the roll cage on it.
When we start racing it we will see what breaks next...
All the best
01-10-2019, 07:06 PM
427 L88 oil filter sandwich adapter
