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Gotcha; gonna try that tomorrow. Thanks guys; wish me luck.
Well let's hope that does the trick. If your line has enough slack (without tugging on it) suggest putting gauge in plastic sack when you test it … just in case. Those plastic lines age out and become brittle & can crack … got that dirty t-shirt. Suggest you replace the line and any ferrules. g'luck!
I just visited Eckler's site to look into order an oil pressure gauge line kit for my car. The guy on the chat sent me a link to a kit but it was for a C2 and the line was copper. When I told him my line was plastic he told me I should change it out since oil can eat the plastic over time.
Is my car supposed to have a metal line leading to the back of the gauge or is the black plastic line I currently have correct? Any ideas where I can get the correct line kit and fittings?
I just visited Eckler's site to look into order an oil pressure gauge line kit for my car. The guy on the chat sent me a link to a kit but it was for a C2 and the line was copper. When I told him my line was plastic he told me I should change it out since oil can eat the plastic over time.
Is my car supposed to have a metal line leading to the back of the gauge or is the black plastic line I currently have correct? Any ideas where I can get the correct line kit and fittings?
I have always used plastic. The one that is in there has lasted 50 years so far. I don't think you will "wear out" another plastic line. I never liked the idea of a copper line because copper will fatigue with vibration over time. Probably either one will outlast however long the car is around. You can find the plastic line at most good parts stores.
I have always used plastic. The one that is in there has lasted 50 years so far. I don't think you will "wear out" another plastic line. I never liked the idea of a copper line because copper will fatigue with vibration over time. Probably either one will outlast however long the car is around. You can find the plastic line at most good parts stores.
Well I just cleaned out the gauge using brake cleaner; it really didn't have any gunk in it. I re-installed the gauge and dash panel (what a friggin' nightmare that was) and started the car up. Guess what? It didn't do a thing; the pressure still climbed to the peak of the gauge.
I know, I know, everyone told me to do this or that before messing with the gauge but, I had already taken it out so I figured what the heck. Besides, I don't have all of the tools, equipment, know-how and most importantly, patience to do this type of work. I'm beginning to think that I am not cut out to be a classic car owner.
Not sure what I am going to do next; gonna step away from it for a bit.
Sorry … but it was a worthwhile gamble.
Don't let this whip you.
You really must find out what pressure engine is truly producing.
As big bird & others have suggested, you should get an inexpensive aftermarket mechanical gauge and test engine OP.
If it's truly overpressure the oil pan must come off as well as oil pump.
If it's Not overpressure, you get a new gauge or send yours out for rebuild.
Don't give up the ship! We'll walk you through it.
I just visited Eckler's site to look into order an oil pressure gauge line kit for my car. The guy on the chat sent me a link to a kit but it was for a C2 and the line was copper. When I told him my line was plastic he told me I should change it out since oil can eat the plastic over time.
Is my car supposed to have a metal line leading to the back of the gauge or is the black plastic line I currently have correct? Any ideas where I can get the correct line kit and fittings?
Both big block and small blocked use a plastic oil pressure line.. Oil eating plastic... That's a new one.
So.. you cleaned the gauge did you test it by moving the linkage to make sure it was free?
If so, my next question would be what type of oil pump is in the car? Does this car have a hi output oil pump? Another possibility.
You could verify this by putting an aftermarket mechanical gauge in the system and see what it reads.
Both big block and small blocked use a plastic oil pressure line.. Oil eating plastic... That's a new one.
So.. you cleaned the gauge did you test it by moving the linkage to make sure it was free?
If so, my next question would be what type of oil pump is in the car? Does this car have a hi output oil pump? Another possibility.
You could verify this by putting an aftermarket mechanical gauge in the system and see what it reads.
Willcox
I cleaned the gauge and the linkage moved freely; no binding or anything, smooth as silk. As far as I know, the oil pump is whatever was installed at the factory for a 1969 L46 350.
Please keep in mind I am not a mechanic so if this next question is stupid I apologize. What you're suggesting is I purchase an inexpensive mechanical oil pressure gauge and connect it to the engine / system. Can I simply connect it to the current line leading to the factory gauge or do I need to connect to another source?
Yep I would say go to your local parts store ask for a oil pressure gauge kit they will have a few. You can follow your oil line to the motor and take yours out and just install the new one and check. I am not sure if the hoses are the same size on the aftermarket and stock mechanical gauge.
So, did you ever put air pressure to the gauge to see what it did? If not, you just wasted a lot of effort and you still don't know what's wrong with it.
I cleaned the gauge and the linkage moved freely; no binding or anything, smooth as silk. As far as I know, the oil pump is whatever was installed at the factory for a 1969 L46 350.
Please keep in mind I am not a mechanic so if this next question is stupid I apologize. What you're suggesting is I purchase an inexpensive mechanical oil pressure gauge and connect it to the engine / system. Can I simply connect it to the current line leading to the factory gauge or do I need to connect to another source?
Yes... it'd be a shame if you replaced something that was reading correctly. You just need to make sure you get the fitting into the oil galley on the aftermarket gauge.
The "copper" line is not actually copper. It just has a copper plating on it. NCRS correct would be that way.
The aftermarket gauge will tell you if you have a pressure problem or not. May need to drop the pan and take the oil pump apart. Pressure regulating valve could be clogged with a piece of the timing gear tooth like that earlier thread. Not a huge problem but it is easy to fix.
If it is oil pump overpressure ... reference this thread link... particularly the mentions of plastic bits in oil pump and plastic cam gear & plastic intermediate shaft collar
I cleaned the gauge and the linkage moved freely; no binding or anything, smooth as silk. As far as I know, the oil pump is whatever was installed at the factory for a 1969 L46 350.
Please keep in mind I am not a mechanic so if this next question is stupid I apologize. What you're suggesting is I purchase an inexpensive mechanical oil pressure gauge and connect it to the engine / system. Can I simply connect it to the current line leading to the factory gauge or do I need to connect to another source?
You may not have looked at the above thread I tried to direct you to. Your oil pump may be malfunctioning because it may have sucked up a bit of plastic from cam gear/pump shaft collar; that plastic decomposes with age & heat & breaks off & falls into oil pan where it can & does get picked up. That plastic can & will jam the pump's pressure relief valve and allow pump to make way too much pressure. You can attach a test gauge to old line but I suggest you attach test gauge's plastic line Directly to existing port adjacent to distributor... back-top of block ...slightly toward driver side ...exactly were OE oil line is fitted. Take the OE fitting loose from block & temporarily swap in the test gauge's line & fitting.
-edit- reasonably certain the oil port at top near distributor has 1/8" NPT (common 1/8" tapered pipe thread)
Could be wrong, but I thought the plastic line was used on small block engines and the copper line was used on big block engines. I can't confirm or deny, but that is my recollection. And the copper lines were....copper. Can't say what the aftermarket 'copper' lines are made of.
I cleaned the gauge and the linkage moved freely; no binding or anything, smooth as silk. As far as I know, the oil pump is whatever was installed at the factory for a 1969 L46 350.
Please keep in mind I am not a mechanic so if this next question is stupid I apologize. What you're suggesting is I purchase an inexpensive mechanical oil pressure gauge and connect it to the engine / system. Can I simply connect it to the current line leading to the factory gauge or do I need to connect to another source?
The original oil pressure gauge in your '69 L-46 car was indeed black plastic and there is no reason to modify that. You can disconnect the line from the gauge and attach it to a different gauge to verify the actual pressure. If both gauges show the high pressure, it is time to drain the oil and remove the pan to get to the oil pump. Disassemble the pump and look for anything that might jam up the pressure regulating piston. Probably will need to drive out a tiny pin to get to the spring and piston on a stock pump.
I cleaned the gauge and the linkage moved freely; no binding or anything, smooth as silk. As far as I know, the oil pump is whatever was installed at the factory for a 1969 L46 350.
Please keep in mind I am not a mechanic so if this next question is stupid I apologize. What you're suggesting is I purchase an inexpensive mechanical oil pressure gauge and connect it to the engine / system. Can I simply connect it to the current line leading to the factory gauge or do I need to connect to another source?
Here's an inexpensive temporary test OP gauge WITH plastic tubing & fittings $23 delivered
I suggest connecting direct to block as in previous post. But do Not put gauge in car … keep it under hood … if it leaks it's not inside cabin.
69 Big block all the way to 1973 cars used a copper pipe from the fitting at the engine, then it went into a fitting and was plastic the rest of the way in.
The top number 6 is plastic, the lower number 6 is copper.
69 Big block all the way to 1973 cars used a copper pipe from the fitting at the engine, then it went into a fitting and was plastic the rest of the way in.
The top number 6 is plastic, the lower number 6 is copper.
Willcox
Thanks, that's a Big Block. Don't want to confuse or stress OP any further … as he is working on his small block 350 with oil port on top of motor
01-16-2019, 04:20 PM
I think black was OE but not sure ...I used clear
That's a new one. 
