Just want to thank all who replied to quick question
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Just want to thank all who replied to quick question
Thanks to all who replied to my post yesderday. I worked on it all day check timing several times it shows to be correct. Put in new plugs still it just does not seem to run wright. I am at a loss as what to look for now. It ran fine before I rebuilt the carb. I think there is still a problem with it. I will just have to keep fighting to find the problem. Thanks again to all fourm members for the help.
Larry
Larry
#2
Le Mans Master
I missed your thread. What brand carb did you rebuild? Was that your first rebuild (mine was). Did you take plenty of photos, while you were taking it apart? If it's a Holley, I've got tons of photos from when I did mine, taken at each step. Finally, did you keep the old parts and compare the new parts to them, while you were putting it back together? An example would be the internal gaskets. Holley made different styles, with the holes in different places.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
F22 it is a quadrajet off l82. It is my first time to rebuild one . I watched hours on utube, some seemed to know what they were talking about, others were not so. When I put it back on the car it started fine, but it ran rich. Fouled the plugs after a few minutes. Keep working on it set idle screws could not get them where they should be. Almost screwed all the way in. Took a break from working on it until the other day. Saw on u-tube about useing a small piece of a business card the check if float was stuck. It was fine then checked the power piston it would not push down. Took the top of the carb off and sure enough it would not push down. Found the piston had poped up to where the needles were not in the jets. Fixed that the car started fine and ran good. The next day went to try and set the screws again where they should and the car woild not start,until I poured gas in the carb. It started and ran. Put the vacuum guage on to set screws and it showed onn the guage late timing. It went down hill from there. I am at a loss what to do next. Sorry if I went on too long.
#4
Safety Car
Are you married to that carb after the time and money for parts? If not, get a holley double pumper and be done with it. That's what I've got on my stroker, runs great.
#5
Le Mans Master
Holley sells the Q-jet replacement in the form of the 4165 (manual trans) or the 4175 (automatic). I've been running a 4165 for five years now, and it hasn't given me a lick of trouble. I brought it brand new and I also purchased the Holley Jet Kit so I can adjust the air-fuel mix, which I've done.
Holley 4165 - Stick Shift Only, Mechanical Secondaries - Double Pumper
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-6210
Holley 4175 - Automatic, Vacuum Secondaries
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-9895
Holley 4165 - Stick Shift Only, Mechanical Secondaries - Double Pumper
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-6210
Holley 4175 - Automatic, Vacuum Secondaries
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-0-9895
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C376FL (01-21-2019)
#6
Dr. Detroit
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If you have to pour gas in the carb to start.....your accelerator pump is not working. You may have other issues too.
I recommend you contact member Lars here and have him go through the carb. By no means am I doubting your mechanical prowess, but Q-jets can be tricky to assemble.
Having the accerator pump "umbrella" flip while installing the lid is not uncommon.
Contact Lars.....he will do you right......ask for his papers on timing and other things....good reading and you can have fun doing it yourself the right way
Jebby
I recommend you contact member Lars here and have him go through the carb. By no means am I doubting your mechanical prowess, but Q-jets can be tricky to assemble.
Having the accerator pump "umbrella" flip while installing the lid is not uncommon.
Contact Lars.....he will do you right......ask for his papers on timing and other things....good reading and you can have fun doing it yourself the right way
Jebby
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Jebby Thanks. I can start the car now just fine without pouring gas in the carb. I don't know why I had to that day. I have been running it trying to get timing wright. Now with the timing set to Lars papers he sent me a few months ago. It now wants to turn over slow at start up. that tells me the timing is not wright. there might be some other problem with the car. I took carb cleaner and went around the intake and carb to see about a vacuum leak. Could not find one. I just came in from changing the cap and rotor, changed plugs a day ago. It has me baffled.
#8
Dr. Detroit
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Jebby Thanks. I can start the car now just fine without pouring gas in the carb. I don't know why I had to that day. I have been running it trying to get timing wright. Now with the timing set to Lars papers he sent me a few months ago. It now wants to turn over slow at start up. that tells me the timing is not wright. there might be some other problem with the car. I took carb cleaner and went around the intake and carb to see about a vacuum leak. Could not find one. I just came in from changing the cap and rotor, changed plugs a day ago. It has me baffled.
Start from there....rule this out first
Jebby
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Jebby Yes lars sent that to me the same time he sent timing paper. I did like he said . I got up realcolse to top dead center on number one and put in the piston stop, tell it touched the piston and made mark at zero, then rotated the engine counterclock wise until it came to the stop, and marked again at zero. then cut that inhalve and made a mark. My balancer had slipped about 2 or 3 inches. Been timing off the new mark, at 16 degrees adv. I am worried about changing balancer because it is an 8 in. that is a fat one. And when I try to find one to fit they seem to be skinny. I was worried about the pullies on the balancer lining up with other ones. They are dead on now.
#10
Dr. Detroit
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Jebby Yes lars sent that to me the same time he sent timing paper. I did like he said . I got up realcolse to top dead center on number one and put in the piston stop, tell it touched the piston and made mark at zero, then rotated the engine counterclock wise until it came to the stop, and marked again at zero. then cut that inhalve and made a mark. My balancer had slipped about 2 or 3 inches. Been timing off the new mark, at 16 degrees adv. I am worried about changing balancer because it is an 8 in. that is a fat one. And when I try to find one to fit they seem to be skinny. I was worried about the pullies on the balancer lining up with other ones. They are dead on now.
now would be the time to install a new balancer and pointer....
Jebby
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C376FL (01-21-2019)
#11
Race Director
the balancer slipped a couple of inches. maybe it is about 1/16th inch per hour of run time and tdc is somewhere else now. float test that balancer! (old Navy term. throw it off the back of the ship and see if it floats.)
#12
Tech Contributor
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Location: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
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If your balancer has slipped, you need to replace it right away. A slipped balancer can come apart, and is downright dangerous. I just did an 8-inch balancer replacement on a C2 Vette. Complete procedure with photos in this thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...blem-post.html
Replacing the balancer will not change pulley alignment - the front face of the balancers are all in the same plane.
Lars
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...blem-post.html
Replacing the balancer will not change pulley alignment - the front face of the balancers are all in the same plane.
Lars
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C376FL (01-22-2019)
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks Lars for the info. I was not sure if all balancers are the same from the face to the end of the snout. I have heard of people having to shim their pullies to get them to line up with water pump pullies. That I did not wan't to do. I was wondering which one would you recommend for a 76 350 L82. I don't need a high dollar one.
Thanks
Larry
Thanks
Larry
Last edited by C376FL; 01-22-2019 at 10:49 AM. Reason: adding something
#14
Tech Contributor
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If it's an 8-inch, it's the same one as I used in the article. ProForm 66511.
Lars
Lars
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C376FL (01-23-2019)
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks Lars I will get one today. But let me get this straight. you are saying that the distance from the end of the snout to the face is the same length even if the balancers are diffrent width. Mine is like the one you pulled off that c2. I guess the 66511 worked so that kind of answers my question I guess
#16
Dr. Detroit
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Thanks Lars I will get one today. But let me get this straight. you are saying that the distance from the end of the snout to the face is the same length even if the balancers are diffrent width. Mine is like the one you pulled off that c2. I guess the 66511 worked so that kind of answers my question I guess
Jebby
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C376FL (01-23-2019)
#17
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That's correct. The front face of the balancer is always in the same plane - it does not change.
Lars