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So, I'm trying to pull out the alarm cylinder assembly on my 1969 Convertible as it appears this was never restored by the previous owners...wiring terminals all corroded, etc. I have tried EVERYTHING but it's in a difficult position and is FROZEN and will NOT move. I've sprayed with PB blaster, tried every wrench that will fit and no success.
Has anyone ever come across this problem? Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
BE CAREFUL on whatever type of penetrating liquid you use. IF you get it on the body and it can sit there soaking in...IT CAN cause for paint issues later.
IF you are going to spray anything and or soak a towel with stuff and wrap it around it. I would wash the area off around your lock cylinder and then apply some aluminum foil tape and make sure it sticks so when oyu do spray anything or soak the rag and wrap it around it. It cannot easily soak right int the fiberglass.
I find that instead of trying to use a penetrating oil. I go in and cut the nut off with my Dremel tool....if I can not get the nut to move. Because 99% of the time the switch is beign replaced.
That makes a lot of sense. I should have been clear that I am spraying the INSIDE of the car where the assembly is, not the outside where the key is inserted but your point is valid either way.
I might get to cutting off the nut but it's VERY thin and sits right next to the fiberglass. What a pain;
Last edited by mkalman4867; 02-05-2019 at 09:28 AM.
How about removing the license plate and bezel so you can reach up in there? Try to get a 6 point socket on the nut. You also might try Brakekleen, as that sometimes helps remove the old crusted stuff.
Duane
By the way, it's been a long time since I changed the license plate bezel, and I don't remember if there is any room behind it to get a hand in there. My spare tire and carrier were removed by me a long time ago, so if I did something like this, I could lay on my back and reach up there to remove the nut.
Yup...removed the bezel and the license plate light module and even the spare tire assembly. Without taking off the bumper and back end, there just isn't much room at all.
YES...I am aware that this area is what I call the ABYSS. Like many other areas of these Corvettes But I can get to it so I feel you should also. I use my pencil tip wand attachment on my Dremel tool to make it easy to use.
YES...I know you were applying the penetrating fluid on the backside and THAT is where I am concerned about this stuff soaking in the backside of the unsealed/un protected raw fiberglass body panel.... and in time....if this substance is allowed to sit on the panel and not be cleaned off well...it can migrate THROUGH the fibers of the fiberglass and cause a bubbling effect where it was saturated.
I would be careful in how fast you allow the Dremel tool to spin so you do not heat up the cutting bit. IF you get it too hot ...you can ruin it. The one I use I get from a guy who works on airplanes and it is a really nice 1/8" straight router bit that has aggressive teeth on it. It cuts like crazy BUT I am not twisting up the rpm's on the tool so high that I can get the nut to glow cherry red....which tells me my cutting tools is not doing jack squat. and I am actually ruining it. RPM's adn hardness if that metal oftentimes is what I look at to find that 'sweet spot' of rpm's and pressure to get the tool to cut as it should. STOP and fell it so see if you are getting it smoking hot but not cheery red. let it cool and go at it some more. Keeping your cutting tool cool is ALWYAS best in making it so it can cut well. DO NOT soak it in water if it gets hot....let it cool down by itself.
And here may be the tricky part. Sometimes cutting one area on the nut may make it so it lets loose and will spin off....but if it does not..then you cutting it 180 degrees on the other side will allow the TWO pieces of the nut to fall off. IF you do not cut it 180 degrees on the other side of your first cut. One piece will fall out but th other will still be stick on the cylinder and may need to be twisted off.
the nut on my 68 was married to the alarm switch also, i used a small round 1 inch dremel bit at a low speed and put a cut in the nut, then used a screw driver in the cut i made to pry open the nut off the threads on the switch, worked great, the flat metal plate protects the tail panel fiber glass. watch the threads on the switch if you plan on reusing.
heres the link for the bits https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1...-420/202263142
Last edited by standardbyke22; 02-05-2019 at 10:00 PM.
the nut on my 68 was married to the alarm switch also, i used a small round 1 inch dremel bit at a low speed and put a cut in the nut, then used a screw driver in the cut i made to pry open the nut off the threads on the switch, worked great, the flat metal plate protects the tail panel fiber glass. watch the threads on the switch if you plan on reusing.
heres the link for the bits https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1...-420/202263142
So...finally got the damned thing off. Was about to try the dremel, but I guess the WD40 Penetrant (yes that’s what they really call it) must have worked!! Interesting what I found...instead of a washer, someone (no clue if it was the original builder, but this thing clearly has not been restored) used a piece of steel with the correct shaped hole...see pic...
Has anyone seen this done before. I had planned to use a washer (I found an NOS set I’m gonna replace the lock with, but the repops show a washer in the sets they sell)...any thoughts?
YES...I am aware that this area is what I call the ABYSS. Like many other areas of these Corvettes But I can get to it so I feel you should also. I use my pencil tip wand attachment on my Dremel tool to make it easy to use.
YES...I know you were applying the penetrating fluid on the backside and THAT is where I am concerned about this stuff soaking in the backside of the unsealed/un protected raw fiberglass body panel.... and in time....if this substance is allowed to sit on the panel and not be cleaned off well...it can migrate THROUGH the fibers of the fiberglass and cause a bubbling effect where it was saturated.
DUB
.
DUB, what do you recommend cleaning this penetrant off with?
good job
i think that plate is original, my 68 had the same one, in about the same condition. i only spray wd40 if i really have to. id rather cut in some cases to avoid the oils soaking into the glass especially around rough openings in the glass ive always followed up with laquor thinner in and around areas with lubricant.
Acetone or lacquer thinner. Soak a towel and wipe it on then wipe it off. AND just be careful NOW due to your exposed hole will allow the acetone to thinner to get on the outside painted surface if you are not careful ... so you might NOT want to soak the towel DRIPPING WET...and just get enough on it to wet the surface and then wipe it off dry. Do this several times ALLOWING the acetone or lacquer thinner to flash off.
So...finally got the damned thing off. Was about to try the dremel, but I guess the WD40 Penetrant (yes that’s what they really call it) must have worked!! Interesting what I found...instead of a washer, someone (no clue if it was the original builder, but this thing clearly has not been restored) used a piece of steel with the correct shaped hole...see pic...
Has anyone seen this done before. I had planned to use a washer (I found an NOS set I’m gonna replace the lock with, but the repops show a washer in the sets they sell)...any thoughts?
thanks much...this has been VERY helpful!
YES I have seen this plate before. Trust me...someone did not make that. It is too precise...they would have used a washer to save time. I would clean it up and re-use it. and not think twice about it.
YES I have seen this plate before. Trust me...someone did not make that. It is too precise...they would have used a washer to save time. I would clean it up and re-use it. and not think twice about it.
DUB
Well, gotta love friends with cool tools! My buddy (the one who got me interested in this stuff) has a blast cabinet and so here's the result...
Next step is to prime and paint then reinstall. Can't find ANY guidance on this so gonna use the same silver I bought for my fender louvers unless someone has other guidance!
Last edited by mkalman4867; 02-10-2019 at 08:28 PM.
YES...apply a primer and then paint it whatever color you want it to be. Seeing how you have those products on hand and no need in going out and investing in other materials. Some may paint it black. But it is not like anyone is going to stick their head under your car and look at it.
I WOULD apply a thin layer of anti-seize on the threads of the new lock cylinder and run the nut on it and make sure you have a film of this anti-seize on it when you go to put it in....so...in the event you need to take it out....it would be easier. Some may want to use candle wax, grease or Vasoline on the threads...so it is up to you. And IF you do lubricate the threads...you do not have to tighten the crap out of it and almost chip your teeth while doing it. Just get it tight enough so it will not move if you plan on using it.
Common sense dictates that you are aslo watchful on getting any lubricate all over the place and back on your clean body...so it does not need to be dripping with a lubricate...which is why I wrote...a thin layer.
02-04-2019, 04:58 PM
1969 Convertible - Alarm Lock Assembly Nut FROZEN
