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Recently had the car on the dyno and finally found the power that it has always lacked - victory! But on starting the car the other day while the engine was turning over it bucked against the starter as if the timing was too far advanced. That seemed odd seeing it had just been set up and seemed fine when it was in the shop.Yesterday I started the car and it did the same thing and this time the radio came on at the same time wth? I do know that with this radio if you disconnect the battery and reconnect it will come on so it seems that for a split second as the engine is cranking all system power was lost. On the way home from a club run the car suddenly lost all power and the engine would scarcely keep running as if it was running out of spark, I pulled over and shifted the trans into neutral gave the engine a rev and suddenly everything was fine again!
I've checked the obvious things like battery connections, connections to the starter and alternator and everything seems fine, could the neutral safety switch be the problem?
I don't think it would but what I'd check are all of the grounds, and to be sure you have grounds to : battery to block, battery and block to frame, everything tied together as far as grounds.
I've had this exact problem when hot and it was a ground or combination of grounds. Found it when the wrench tightening the header bolts contacted the brake booster and the underhood light brightened considerably, added ground(s) and the hot start problem was also solved.
Have you read about the Big 3 upgrades ? If not do an internet search.
Last edited by 68post; Feb 18, 2019 at 02:26 PM.
Reason: stuff
Initial timing too advanced. You probly need to mess with weights and springs to get more centrif advance so you can run less initial and still get 34 or so at 3000 without vacuum advance.
Initial timing too advanced. You probly need to mess with weights and springs to get more centrif advance so you can run less initial and still get 34 or so at 3000 without vacuum advance.
Hi, I thought initial was too much also but spark is controlled electronically by a box connected to the standard dist that has a Pertronix unit replacing the points. Mech advance is locked out as not needed. Initial is set at 14 deg. 34 deg all in at 3000. No vac advance can either, vac advance is taken care of by a MAP sensor.
I'm now thinking that maybe its the ignition switch because that is the part of the circuit that is common to both the starting symptom (losing power momentarily during starting causing the buck) the radio coming on by itself (which needs power removal then reconnection to happen) and the seeming loss of most of the ignition power causing the engine to almost quit.
Initial timing too advanced. You probly need to mess with weights and springs to get more centrif advance so you can run less initial and still get 34 or so at 3000 without vacuum advance.
Easy enough to check. Set it back to 8 degrees and see if it bucks.
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