69ttop502

These were made by 76strokervette here on the forum. First part is a titanium spreader bar. The rod ends are chromoly with 28,000 lb pull strength. The titanium bar has 138,000 psi tensile strength and 128,000 psi pull strength. It is very light. I don’t have access to my chassis to weigh my VB and P bar but I am confident I will save some weight here as this assembly with the ends weighs only 2.68 pounds. Looks great as well.

Second part is David’s idea on bracing the rear differential and is an idea I haven’t seen before. In talking with David and Mike Dyer during my differential build, both remarked how much the differential actually moves around. The braces pictured are bolted in but will be welded when final fitted. They will eliminate any movement of the front of the differential and make the pinion angle adjustable. The tubes and ends are chromoly and have a 264,000 pull strength. They are adjustable so you can adjust for preference of ride etc. They are mounted in the area of the crossmember where there is heavy gussetting. Since both sides will have the brackets they will cancel each other out. The attempt here is to make the center section a structural part of the rear frame.











This last picture is the spreader bar.


Anxious to hear what y’all think. Love to see guys like David and Mike who like to think outside the box and have the talent to make the parts. I already have a set of caps David made for my 1350 transmission yoke. Great stuff.

shaun8484

Are these being mass produced yet?

CA-Legal-Vette

I think a titanium spreader bar might be overkill for the task. I could argue that you could accomplish the same thing with a broomstick. Ti is much more cool though.

the diff brace is another story. I’ve seen a few examples where the brace goes from the back of the diff to the frame rail in front of the snubber, usually welded on. I really like this design.

squared

I dunno man, that's kind of like putting an F-22 wing spar in a P-51...

Rescue Rogers

Metalhead140

The differential braces - they seem to stop any sideways movement of the diff, but I'm struggling to see how they stop the up/down motion of the diff and adjust the pinion angle as you say? I'd have thought that the rod ends allow flex up and down? Not criticising, they look well built and I'm sure are thoroughly thought out, just seeking to understand. I've mounted my differential solid but still using the original rear crossmember and front mount, just eliminating all soft mounts.

76strokervette

You can mechanically preload the front of the differential with the struts to adjust.
The brackets have around .001" clearance to the rod end. I was able to move the snubber mount turning the strut
by hand with just one side mounted. And this is with a brand new snubber mount.

7T1vette

At the risk of dropping the 'turd' in the punch bowl, I have to make the observation that those end-mounts appear to be attached to the frame with simple screws. Are those screws capable of handling the load on those links??? I would have thought the end-mounts needed to be welded to the frame.

76strokervette

The bolts are for location only. Brackets will get welded to the frame and I wanted to find a place that was the same on every car.

7T1vette

reno stallion

[QUOTE=Metalhead: I've mounted my differential solid but still using the original rear crossmember and front mount, just eliminating all soft mounts.[/QUOTE]
I have the rubber bushings out off my diff carrier thinking about solid mounts how's the vibration if any?

ignatz

A lot of work for a "remark". What problem is this actually solving?

gkull

I would dispute David and Mike's statement if they are saying that the front of the pinion needs bracing to keep it from moving side to side! I have a solid mounted diff cross member. I also have a custom solid aluminum diff snubber machined to the thickness needed to get the correct diff yoke to drive line angle. I recently replaced my rear end after years of road racing. Upon inspection my aluminum snubber disk left a perfectly round impression on the frame side bolt on mounting point. There was NO evidence of side to side movement!

TimAT

What are you using for differential crossmember mount "cushions"? I installed VanSteel's Delrin mounts when I swapped rear axles. Lowered the car a little (raised the differential) and seems really solid. Very little, if any, give in the Delrin.

gkull

Tim, I just air chizeld out the old crusty rubber and metal. I bought the Tom's aluminum solid mount kit

76strokervette

You are comparing apples to oranges with your solid mount discs, not the same as stock mount. I know several people who have cut thru the bracket with the stock snubber mount.
As far as no movement maybe put a camera under the car to verify, there really is no other way to definitively prove that. I will go into greater detail after I do some more testing.
First impression is the car hooks better than I anticipated. Mike has complete setup for testing and hopefully we can get them on a car and get some feedback from different venues.

dmaxx3500

and this ?,,helps in what way?

if you do whats in the GM hi-perf book,to the frame and suspension ,that they did to the factory race cars,youd be way ahead

gkull

I was just saying at the front of the diff. where the drive line comes in that the engine TQ causes vertical movement not side to side.





Drain plug.

gkull

Maybe check out this post.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ial-mount.html

76strokervette

I know of a racer with the solid mount aluminum discs and the traction bar and the car still wheel hops.
I just picked up my MT et streets to try a few launches myself. I can reference a video or two if you want to get into my
theory of what is happening. Your logic is sound I just believe there is more going on that isn't easily seen.
If you wish to discuss my ideas I can pm you my number. I will be testing the next few weekends.