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Bleed air from A/C Manifold Gauge Set and using Self Sealing R134 Cans

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Bleed air from A/C Manifold Gauge Set and using Self Sealing R134 Cans

 
Old 03-15-2019, 05:49 AM
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Default Bleed air from A/C Manifold Gauge Set and using Self Sealing R134 Cans

What is the best way to bleed air from a manifold gauge set when charging a system with R 134A?

Secondly, the new cans of of R134a are self sealing and require an adapter and wonder how to use them?
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Old 03-15-2019, 01:48 PM
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As far as bleeding the air, I pressurize the hose to bleed slowly as I am about to attach to the vehicle snap lock connection (don't want to waste it - just displace air from the hose) - and then just snap lock it on.

Did you get the adapter to hook up the self-sealing cans to the gauges? The adapter come with instructions. Fairly straight forward, but I have to figure it out each time I use the adapter.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Interdyna...-Only/16930285

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Old 03-15-2019, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by carriljc View Post
As far as bleeding the air, I pressurize the hose to bleed slowly as I am about to attach to the vehicle snap lock connection (don't want to waste it - just displace air from the hose) - and then just snap lock it on.

Did you get the adapter to hook up the self-sealing cans to the gauges? The adapter come with instructions. Fairly straight forward, but I have to figure it out each time I use the adapter.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Interdyna...-Only/16930285
I have not purchased the adapter. Since I posted this I have been researching can taps and found there are ones made for the self sealing cans. I think that may be a better idea.

In reference my bleeding question, when I look on line on how to bleed the air they mention loosening the yellow hose to bleed it. My concern is that there would still be some air in the blue hose. Before I hook up the hoses I have been running some Freon thru the blue hose. My gauge set has a shut off at the end of the blue hose so I turn it off before connecting it to the system. The potential problem with this method, is if I don't have to add Freon, the can is usually wasted as it seems to leak out over time when connected to a can tapper style valve. Which us the reason I asked the preferred method of bleeding the air from the charging hoses.

In theory the new self sealing cans should solve that problem in that you should be able to remove the can tapper without the Freon leaking out. Some on line reviews I read of the adapter, is the Freon leaked out when the adapter was removed, which is why I was asking about using the adapter.
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Old 03-15-2019, 03:00 PM
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I use this one. Easy breezy. Fits any can. I can buy rusted out R12, and tap the side.

Amazon Amazon
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Old 03-15-2019, 09:47 PM
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Ideally, you would attach a vacuum pump to the yellow line and evacuate the lines before opening the valves on the red and blue lines.
You could try to purge the lines by hooking up your can of refrigerant, and opening the service valves on the red and blue lines for a split second. I've never tried that, and am not sure if it would work or not. I've always used a machine.
Good luck
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Old 03-15-2019, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffwebley View Post
Ideally, you would attach a vacuum pump to the yellow line and evacuate the lines before opening the valves on the red and blue lines.
You could try to purge the lines by hooking up your can of refrigerant, and opening the service valves on the red and blue lines for a split second. I've never tried that, and am not sure if it would work or not. I've always used a machine.
Good luck
This is essentially what I do. For a newly repaired system, you really have to draw vacuum for the AC to work properly anyways. If you are just topping off, follow the same procedure without opening the valve to the system and then attach the can.
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Old 03-15-2019, 10:21 PM
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As said the proper way to do it is to connect a vacuum up to the using a manifold kit. I have used a loaner manifold kit and vacuum from Auto Zone but not all of them have that as an option. I have had to resort to a work around in the past and that is to connect the can of refrigerant to the low pressure side of the system as you normally would to charge the system and press the release valve in the high pressure side at the same time as you are filling the system.

If you are changing from R12 to R134A you will need to completely clear the system of R12. You can follow the same route as mentioned above but keep i mind you are going to more thank likely waste a can of R134A by doing it this way. If your system is leaking it is doubtful the self sealing is really going to fix your leak But you can put a little dye in your system so that when you recharge it and it leaks out the leak will be easier to locate especially using a black light.
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Old 03-15-2019, 10:37 PM
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If you charge it with self-sealing R-134 you can never, ever take your car to a licensed AC repair guy after that.

Oh you can, but he's going to charge you a small fortune because that stuff would contaminate his $5000 machine. And he'll test for sealant before hooking your car up to his recovery system.

You'll get to replace every piece in your AC system from which he can't reliably flush the sealant & it's residue. Which is most everything.

Does your AC system have a slow leak? Has it been converted from R-12? Because, you see, the R-134 molecule is a lot smaller and will leak right through the rubber hoses used on the OEM R-12 systems. Hoses have to be swapped to if you're doing a conversion...and want it to last more than 3 months.

Take it to a competent, licensed AC repair guy. Get the leak found and fixed.

If you use self-sealing R134 your system will work for a year, tops. Probably less, depending on where your leak is located (condensor, lines, compressor seal, ...)

I've used it, but only on cars already on death's door -- or on their way to a used car lot.

Please. Either find some R-134 without the sealant, or better yet, get your AC repaired properly by a professional.

Proper auto AC repair ain't cheap. Self-sealing R-134 just guarantees much larger bills down the road.

Sorry to deliver the bad news. It's criminal how expensive it is to work on auto AC systems, imho.

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Old 03-16-2019, 12:26 AM
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He's asking about self sealing cans of R-134a. Been in use in certain states for years. It's a non-problem. After you evacuate the system just do as I said above and everything will work out fine.

mark79,80 If you have any more questions shoot me a PM. I've done several cars and just redid my 68 last fall. Cools to like 40F.

(NOTE: This is a Hot Rod Air system with the largest condenser I could squeeze in front of radiator)

Last edited by carriljc; 03-16-2019 at 11:47 AM. Reason: add hot rod air info
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Old 03-16-2019, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by carriljc View Post
He's asking about self sealing cans of R-134a. Been in use in certain states for years. It's a non-problem. After you evacuate the system just do as I said above and everything will work out fine.

mark79,80 If you have any more questions shoot me a PM. I've done several cars and just redid my 68 last fall. Cools to like 40F.
Thats correct, I am referring to the new R134A cans that have a self sealing valve so Freon is only dispensed when the valve is pushed. They replaced the piercing style cans in January 2018. There is no stop leak in these cans, though just like the previously available piercing cans there are some sold with stop leak.

This is the can tap I saw to open them, though it is not sold locally:

http://fjcinc.com/product/6029-r-134...ng-valve-cans/

Locally, the stores sell a plastic adapter so a piercing style can tap can be used, which is what I was referring to in my initial post. A number of reviews said they did not work well.
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Old 03-16-2019, 11:46 AM
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Plastic adapter works just fine - I do not especially like it, but it works. Of course that self-seal valve for $6.19 may be well worth it if you're not in a hurry.

here is one with a price. https://megadepot.com/product/fjc-60...ing-valve-cans
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