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I am currently rebuilding my engine right now, and I bought a Fram HP4 for the break-in. I'm not sure if I made the right choice, but I based it on the rated particle size filtered. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/frm-hp4
When I look at the information provided, the Fram HP4 filters particles at only 5 microns, when compared to WIX 51069 at 20 microns.
I know oil flow is very important after break in, so I bought the HP4 for break in, and the WIX 51069 to follow break in.
I'm curious if others base their opinions on the particle size filtered, like I did, and if there is any validity to these ratings.
Should I have bought the HP4 to follow the break in as well?
What is the beta ratio data for the Fram HP4 filter?
I know the Wix 51069 is 2/20=6/20. That means that at 6 microns, 1 in 2 particles get through (50% filtration) and at 20 microns, 1 in 20 particles get through (95% filtration). I'm skeptical that Fram is much better than that. Will it catch some 5 micron particles? Probably. Will it catch nearly all 5 mircon particles? Probably not.
I am currently rebuilding my engine right now, and I bought a Fram HP4 for the break-in. I'm not sure if I made the right choice, but I based it on the rated particle size filtered. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/frm-hp4
When I look at the information provided, the Fram HP4 filters particles at only 5 microns, when compared to WIX 51069 at 20 microns.
I know oil flow is very important after break in, so I bought the HP4 for break in, and the WIX 51069 to follow break in.
I'm curious if others base their opinions on the particle size filtered, like I did, and if there is any validity to these ratings.
Should I have bought the HP4 to follow the break in as well?
IMO the answer to which filter to use depends on how you use the car. Like I said if you spend any time at high RPM's and use a very fine filter media then it's likely you are bypassing and filtering is compromised. If you use heavy wt oil like 40 or 50 it's going to bypass at a lower RPM using a finer filter media vs a courser media.
The reality for me is that I change this oil once every season (2000ish miles) and the engine is a gen 1 SBC, how long is it going to last (cylinder wear) with a carb on it vs fuel injection in reality? Not 250,000 miles, I can guarantee that. The way I drive it I'll be lucky to get 50,000 miles. So just how important is a 20 micron filter to the equation? Not nearly as important as overall oil flow that takes out the big chunks. The 10 micron pieces just are not going to have a significant effect on the lifespan of this engine. A bypassing oil filter that lets everything through just might cause significant damage.
On my DD's, yes I use fine micron filters, I change the oil every 10,000 miles, they might last 250,000 miles and I don't drive them like I stole them so they have different requirements for filters vs the vette.
So really it's up to the user as to what they use based on the use of the vehicle and the configuration of the engine.
Agree it's about surface area, but surface area across the filtration media, not the surface area of the outside of the filter; more pleats == more filtration media surface area if all else stays the same.
Adam
Which has more surface area? 50 1/4'' deep pleats or 25 1/2" deep pleats? Filter media needs to removed, laid flat and measured.
I found this pic on the NSX site. Number or pleats doesn't always mean more surface area.
Puro L40017: 63 pleats 480 area
Wix 1515: 63 pleats 292 area
The Fram XG grades out even better. Glad I switched to it.
Take a look at the other Fram filter grades overall and the fram line is very poor overall and with an individual grade of C for media surface area for the extended guard (just fair), I would still stay away. The mobil 1 filter has excellent and above average for all test criteria. I would still go with a mobil 1 oil filter, especially for the price....can't beat it.
The WIX and Napa Gold Filters are just average.............not sure what all the hype is about them.
FWIW-I just had a WIX fuel filter leak on my 01 grand prix out of the blue. The replacement WIX fuel filter was a b**ch to get to fit without leaking...suck job...no more WIX for me.....
So the chart indicates that the 2nd crappiest filter tested is the AC Delco PH1218. Same filter, except for the container dimensions, used on millions of GM vehicles that left the factory with the standard GM power train warranty. Well, if that filter does what its supposed to do, and by all indications it does, then why spend any more than a few dollars for any other oil filter on the list? Heck, you'd be a fool to pay $15 for a filter when a $4 filter will protect your engine like the AC Delco1218. I wonder if that's the same oil filter media found on new Z06, ZL-1, CTS-V, etc?
I am very skeptical about this chart. A good reporter checks their sources. A great reporter reveals their sources. In others words, anybody with too much time on their hands could establish this chart and make in lean in any direction they wanted, and any brand they wanted, in less than a few hours time. Credentials is everything in this world.
First I noted that the cost is involved with overall grade. What does the cost have to do with the quality? You could essentially have a great filter for $3 and a horrible filter for $15. Having said that, that would change the final grade outcome.
Second, I noticed the far right column, overall grade or Final Grade highest number goes to a first place filter called "F--m". Really? I find that amusing, tainted and bias.
Several other test that I have read and YouTube videos I have seen would put that whole company of "F--m" filters in last place. So I am looking for some fine print at the bottom of the chart that states: This chart was printed, corrected and distributed by "F--m" Oil Filters.
The chart is heavily weighted towards filtering and build quality (certainly a subjective term) so even though the amsoil EaO24 filter gets a poor grade in the last three columns it still scores high due to the first two and how those two are weighted vs the last three criteria.
It really depends on your priorities in what you want the filter to do or how you want it behave under various conditions. The chart is ehhh... ok, but not the last word in filter choice.
One has to wonder what it all means. I've known people who buy the cheapest oil and filters they can get and still have their engines last for 300,000 miles. I know one guy who buys whatever is cheapest at oil change time who's Dodge mini van has over 360,000 and still clicking along. Of course he isn't revving it to 7000 rpm around a race track, but still.
All I can say for sure is I've never had any issues running a Wix or Napa Gold even with 20-50 oil, a high volume pump and revving to 7500 rpm. I also have my bypass plugged off. I have seen some filter burst under such conditions.
03-26-2019, 04:23 PM
