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Per my other thread on measuring for pushrod length, I definitely have some of my pushrod guideplates that are NOT where they're supposed to be (my roller rockers' roller tips are NOT even close to centered over the valve side-to-side for some cylinders); can someone just give me a simple explanation of how to align the pushrod guideplates properly?
-Is this as simple as loosening the studs, dropping a rocker on each valve and coming to a compromise position that allows each rocker to be as straight as possible and then tightening down the studs to the defined torque spec? (Is this an "eyeball it" process or do I need to do precision measuring with specific tools and processes?)
I'm trying to go slow and ask all my dumb questions before I start the engine and grenade it; I'd rather pay my "stupid tax" in terms of build time vs. replacement parts and $$$$.
You can loosen the rocker studs and move the plates until they line up both rockers. no fancy tools needed. If they don't line up you can get slotted ones. Make sure you get the ones for the size push rods you have. Make sure the push rods are not hitting the push rod holes in the heads.
You can loosen the rocker studs and move the plates until they line up both rockers. no fancy tools needed. If they don't line up you can get slotted ones. Make sure you get the ones for the size push rods you have. Make sure the push rods are not hitting the push rod holes in the heads.
these or same thing another brand ... they are 2-piece, are Adjustable Individually for Each PR.
You don't have to but, once they're set, you can tack weld the two pieces together.
cut the guide plate in half with a cut off wheel and align the rocker on the valves tighten the studs and tack weld the plate back together with a wire welder
I had such a time aligning mine on a set of Dart heads, that I split them all with a cut-off wheel, finished the edges with a grinder and then mounted and aligned all 16 individually. We put grade 8 hardened washers between the stud and guideplate so they would tighten without turning the plates. Worked great and didn't have to weld them back into pairs.
On some aftermarket heads with larger runners, the intake pushrods are very close to rubbing in the wall of the runner, and in my case I didn't have enough adjustment.
I had such a time aligning mine on a set of Dart heads, that I split them all with a cut-off wheel, finished the edges with a grinder and then mounted and aligned all 16 individually. We put grade 8 hardened washers between the stud and guideplate so they would tighten without turning the plates. Worked great and didn't have to weld them back into pairs.
On some aftermarket heads with larger runners, the intake pushrods are very close to rubbing in the wall of the runner, and in my case I didn't have enough adjustment.
seriously great context; thanks.
I could not understand the purpose of welding the two piece ones until you said this.
Out of curiousity, how does the the top plate on the rev kit attach to the head? (I’ve never run one and with my spring pressures and 6,000 rpm peak I shouldn’t need one, but I’m still curious.)
You can use a dremel tool to widen the slot that guides the push rod. If the push rod has firm contact with the guide plate, it needs to have the slot widened. Several aftermarket versions (Comp Cam) have guide plates that can be moved around to adjust, then tighten down the bolts.
you weld the guide plates because if they move you can have engine damage and if they are not welded together they can rotate independent of each other . the rev kits springs hold the top plate in place against the head
Yes - the rev kit plate simply sits against the bottom of the head and the springs sit in a recess on the bottom of the plate, plus fit into the top of each lifter. Quite a bit of pressure sandwiching it all together.
On the guideplates, I've had the valve gear off my motor at 2K miles and everything was still snug and properly in place.
04-15-2019, 02:16 PM
How to align pushrod guideplates?
