TheGreek!

I'm getting ready to get a Dewitts HP radiator for my 69 and wanted to know if there is a better (and possibly cheaper) dual electric fan assembly for it. The one that Dewitts offers with it costs around 450 bucks which seems a bit steep. I can't use an engine driven fan because I'm going to put a Weiand 8-71 blower on it when I do the radiator swap. If anybody knows if there is a better (and hopefully cheaper) dual electric fan assembly for it please post the info. Any help is appreciated.

cv67

OEM fan off a truck or? Seen some post they use C5 fans.
Whats the measurement of surface area on the C3 radiator?
450 seems like a lot but those are really really good at cooling...had them on a ZR1 that would heat soak big time..flawless.SUmmer wiht AC on beating on it never once did the temp rise, they are worth it.
Dont go the ebay route...

scottjamison

I don't think I would be looking at a forced induction system and wanting to skimp on cooling.
I went with this and it is awesome. My 496 can idle all day in the heat with no issues. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...m/applications
No they are not cheap but they work really really well.

Kacyc3

Some of the best dual fan setups for our cars are

93-02 Fbody
c5+
SPAL
focus fans

Single fans
Lincoln Mark VIII, possible alternatives Tbird/Mustang/Crown Vic
Taurus
Volvo
Black Magic

But you need to be aware you may need to upgrade your alternator for most of these.

speedreed8

zwede

I've had the SPAL duals on my 71 BBC for 20 years and they have never given me any trouble. Keeps the 454 cool in TX heat, can't ask for more. I have mine setup to run at half speed whenever ignition is on, and go to full speed at 200F. They rarely go full speed.

cv67

WHat controllers are you guys using? Have a simple fan switch in the intake, dont care for it. WIll it work with thier 16 inch single (tolerating different speeds?)
What wiring upgrades need to be done other than the lead coming off the alt?

Kacyc3

Depending which fan you choose possibly the alternator itself, some of the fans I listed drawl serious amps at startup. Another theory is you shouldnt pull directly from the alt lug as it could cause issues, which means either a new cable ran to battery or a distribution block added under hood. I personally dont care for the temp probes you you put in the radiator fins or hoses for the temp, You could wire in a manual switch that grounds the relay for the fan to turn it on if you are worried about a thermo switch, my EFI controls the fan.

jim2527

'Better' and 'Best' are relative terms.

Dewitt's fan setup will be mostly plug n play. Anything else and you'll have to figure out mounting of the fans/shrouds and wiring.

jim2527

BMW 2 temp switch, Volvo relays, Focus fans. It's a common setup.

zwede

I have a fusible link at the alt stud, then goes to a small fuse box mounted next to the brake booster. Next to that are the relays to control high/low speed. The speed switch is controlled by my EFI setup (it provides a ground when the engine hits 200F).

PainfullySlow

SPAL clone on fleabay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-11-Ele...7905%7Ciid%3A1

mrvette

I have had Dual Spals for maybe 15 years now.......car runs just fine in FLORIDA heat/traffic off the freeway where road temps have to be about 120 off that ASSfault......

TheGreek!

I went ahead and bought the radiator/dual electric fan combo from Dewitts yesterday. I wish the spal fan assembly was a bit cheaper but it is what it is I guess. You mentioned an alternator upgrade, what one would you recommend? What amp rating? The one in the car right now is a 63 amp unit with an internal regulator. The new alternator would need to be internally regulated and have the electrical plug "clocked" in the right position (by where the threaded adjustment bolt holes is).

PainfullySlow

There are lots of threads about upgrading your alternator here. Most use a CS144 style specifically because the case is very close to what was originally in the car. If it is not clocked correctly you simply have to remove 3 bolts and clock it to where you want it. I personally went the route of a junkyard CS144 at 140 amps because I wanted to powdercoat and rebuild it myself. You can go this route and save some $ (I have about $80 into it) or there are plenty of places where you can buy them rebuilt/new. The only wiring that needs to be done is a single plug at the alternator itself so it is as close to plug and play as you will get. A search here will yield more info than you could possibly want =).

DaveL82

You made the right choice. I put their rad and fan kit on several years ago with no issues. At the end of the day it's not worth messing with when the solution works.

TheGreek!

What cars in the junkyard should I look at to find a cs144 alternator? There's a yard fairly close by with a lot of cars in it, they probably have some cars with that alternator. Will the pulley from the alternator that's on the car now fit and line up with the pulley that drives it or will I need a different pulley? If I need a different pulley what one is needed?

Kacyc3

There are many different routes you can go but all will need to be a minimum of 100 amp. I like to use alternators from newer cars as the have more output than stock, you can buy a new one anywhere if you have a problem and they arent some one off deal that you may never find again. I have one from a 96 Caprice that looks to have the same mounts as one from our cars I just never tried to make it work.

zwede

I received a pm asking for the half/full speed fan wiring diagram. Can't attach files to a pm, so I'm posting it here.

pauldana

Brushed fans are like an 8-track player...

yea, sure it plays music... but compared to say... A CD... it's junk.

obsoleet

if you want a very nice fan, USA made... get a Delta PAG

less than 1/2 the current draw, less than 1/2 the weight, less then 1/2 the size of the motor. 10,000 times more reliable. computer controlled speed under any condition,

https://deltapag.com

I run a 650+HP 427 SBC that I road race... cools great.