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Help! Rotor rivets popped off of hub

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Old 04-30-2019, 11:24 PM
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RocketNerd
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Default Help! Rotor rivets popped off of hub

I was trying to finish my new front end rebuild and while I was using a shop press to press in my new Timken bearing race into the hub, it popped, scared the $@#* out me, and it looks like all 5 of the rivets securing the original brake rotor came clean out and the hub dropped an inch onto the lower part of the press. I marked the location of where the studs go into the rotor so as not to change the orientation and hopefully limit any change of the rotor runout. Can I take it to the machine shop tomorrow and have the remaining rivets drilled out of the rotor and replace them with bolts without any issue? and should I remove the other side and have the same done? Maybe its time to get some new rotors?
Old 05-01-2019, 12:22 AM
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TimAT
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Couple of options-- just knock the rest of the rivets out and forget they were ever there. Or drive out the rest of the rivets and drill and tap for bolts. You'll need to countersink the bolt heads. Either way, you should check the runout and adjust it as needed.
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Old 05-01-2019, 01:30 AM
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kossuth
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Originally Posted by RocketNerd
I was trying to finish my new front end rebuild and while I was using a shop press to press in my new Timken bearing race into the hub, it popped, scared the $@#* out me, and it looks like all 5 of the rivets securing the original brake rotor came clean out and the hub dropped an inch onto the lower part of the press. I marked the location of where the studs go into the rotor so as not to change the orientation and hopefully limit any change of the rotor runout. Can I take it to the machine shop tomorrow and have the remaining rivets drilled out of the rotor and replace them with bolts without any issue? and should I remove the other side and have the same done? Maybe its time to get some new rotors?
You're overthinking this. The rivets really aren't needed. Get a dozen or so regular 7/16x20 hex head nuts from the local hardware store, a small handful of washers, and run the nuts on the studs using the washers as spacers if your studs aren't threaded all the way down. Cost you a couple of bucks. Snug it all up and check your runout. If it's out try reorienting the rotor to the hub (alot easier with the rivets out) and see if that makes a difference.
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Old 05-01-2019, 11:05 AM
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RocketNerd
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Thanks for the help everyone, I decided that i was going to have the local machine shop remove the rivets on both front rotors and since I just finished the front suspension rebuild I will be replacing them with the powerstop cross-drilled and slotted rotors (I've wanted to upgrade them) and will pickup my dial indicator to check the runout with the new rotors installed. Any other recommendations on what I need to do when I replace them?

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Old 05-01-2019, 11:36 AM
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Bikespace
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GTR1999 has sprinkled around the internet the instructions for countersunk flathead screws to hold the rotors. If you can't find the info, PM him. I bought a set from McMaster Carr, as they are not a common size, but I have enough for both cars.

He also has the DIY runout method you will want to follow, vs cutting a new set of rotors.
Old 05-02-2019, 05:47 PM
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71warbonnetyello
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What is the importance of the rivets? I put mine back together without them.
Without them the rotor assembles just like all my other cars.
Old 05-02-2019, 08:18 PM
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kossuth
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Originally Posted by 71warbonnetyello
What is the importance of the rivets? I put mine back together without them.
Without them the rotor assembles just like all my other cars.
Back when the C3 was a new car disc brakes were relatively new on passenger cars. Because of design choices rotor runout is a pretty critical item. Not 100% certain of this but I could see it being done with the thinking that during the initial build of the car the rotor and hub were checked together because of of the runout concerns to eliminate tolerance stack up.
Old 05-02-2019, 08:44 PM
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derekderek
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The rivets are a quickie way to hold the 2 together while being assembled-in St Louis.

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