Tom_K

I have completed the install however the Clutch fork is out of adjustment.
Looks like I need a taller pivot ball. (Maybe get an adjustable?)
I increased the length of the lower linkage rod to get the pedal height right and the system connected.
With the longer rod the Z-bar is rocked back a bit.

I am not sure if this geometry will work well or cause other issues down the road.

Q: before I get in there... is it possible to get to the pivot ball without completely pulling the trans?
That setup is a real B%%ch to put in......

Or do I just fire up a nice cigar (convertible) and drive it the way it is......

gkull

You have to pull the transmission from the bell housing. I use the tall GM 1.78inches because of my thin light weight flywheel

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...make/chevrolet

jim-81

Without a picture of the Z bar it's hard to see what position it is in. The working geometry of the Z bar is important as I'm sure you know. I fiddled with mine and got it to work much better by making the arms more perpendicular (up and down) giving it better leverage. But I have the HEIM joints - adjustable Z bar (which is a great addition - just for this purpose). I recently installed a TKO600 and reused my existing bell housing and clutch pivot so maybe I got lucky. Replacing the clutch ball would be a pain but make sure you get it right - it's important.

Jim

Tom_K

Jim,

here is an image.

I can adjust the lower connecting rod to get the Z-bar more vertical
(either cut and weld or get adjustable)
Does the clutch fork look too far back?

I really do not want to go through the remove and install process. I did this swap without modifying the cross-member so the clearance to remove and re-install the trans is very tight and a real pain in the ***.....

I may look to cut the cross-member and fabricate a removable center. This would make the whole thing much easier in the likelihood I need to get back in there down the road. ..... Just want to get her back on the road at this point.....