clt1wjs

I have a .32 amp draw on my battery with every fuse pulled and all relays disconnected. The computer is un plugged. It has a brand new fully charged battery @ 12.7 v and charges at 13.8 v. Brand new alternator (3rd one). I put new ground wire and new starter harness on and still cannot find where it is coming from. I have read every thread on here and tried everything that has been suggested. Where do I look next? Please advise!!!

Fredtoo

Have you tried unplugging the plastic 2 wire plug on the alternator?

I had a drain that stopped when I unplugged that.
It was resolved by replacing the ignition switch.

clt1wjs

Yes, It didn't change anything

henrikse

Do you have a wiring diagram? PM me with email I will send as too big for forum. Disconnect large red at starter (battery cable) and it should go away. You have a red and red/blk leaving the starter that may be the problem or your solenoid. If not with the schematic you at least have an idea what else to check . do you have a positive or negative ground which will tell you if it is on negative battery or positive. Positive is fused and negative can be tougher to find until you isolate circuit. 320 ma isn't huge so tells you that it is probably a light ground

Peterbuilt

The 'starter extension harness' has a BLACK wire that should be connected to a starter or bell housing bolt, you didn't connect it to the battery terminal on the solenoid, did you?

jhopper408

Mine did the same thing. I never did find it. So I just put a on and off switch on the battery.

clt1wjs

After unplugging it and waiting the meter went down to .003 amps. I pulled the steering column and replaced the ignition switch. I plug the two wire back into the alternator and it went right back to .32 amps.

Goody

If all fuses and relays have been removed from the fuse box and you are still getting a draw then something else is still connected to the battery that is shorted out creating the load (power draw). It can be a switch, sensor, or actuator on the circuit. You're going to need to review the wiring diagrams for your year vehicle and start tracing through them to see what items draw power directly from the battery or use a circuit outside of the fuse box in the cabin.
It is possible that something was added to the car later in life directly from the main power wire before the fuse box and it is shorted internally causing the draw. Like an amplifier for a stereo, security system, remote start or who knows what.
Use the DVM to start probing power wires through the car to see what is still drawing power. Visually check the car out for anything that is not factory installed or for wire bundles that have the loom repaired or peeled back. Removing the seats might make this easier to get under the dash for the visual inspection.

henrikse

After unplugging what?

clt1wjs

Well I found the source! The Orange wire from the fuse box (ECM 10 amp) to the ECM is pulling exactly .32 amps. If I pull that fuse out it goes to zero. Any suggestions on how to fix? I pulled all the tape off and I see no breaks in the wire. The terminals look clean...… I also put a new ignition switch in and a new ECM.

nix1981

I don't have my 81 anymore, but I had the gremlin! Turned out it was the door/interior light timer. It's an orange colored box that's located behind the glove box. I found a good one and that solved my electrical issues.