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VB&P is no longer in business. I used Energy Suspension poly bushings most everywhere, including the spring bushings. With a cut spring and a stock swaybar mount, the rubber bushings wouldn't have fit anyway.
I think there was a bad batch of poly bushings going around about 10 years ago. There may still be some bad ones out there, but not from Energy Suspension, AFAIK.
is this the way they came out of the rear arm? Mine have another set of metal plates between the bushing and the frame and spring
if you have the front spring is it the same?
Yes that's what vbp sent over years ago. The washers on outsides, poly bushing, and the monospring and t arm has a cup/washer that is attached. Looks like what your pic shows at the spring, I'm not sure what you have going on with the t-arm side or maybe they were different through the years? Mine's a 79. I didn't have a front monoleaf so i can't help you there.
Yes that's what vbp sent over years ago. The washers on outsides, poly bushing, and the monospring and t arm has a cup/washer that is attached. Looks like what your pic shows at the spring, I'm not sure what you have going on with the t-arm side or maybe they were different through the years? Mine's a 79. I didn't have a front monoleaf so i can't help you there.
Ryan
thanks mine is a 69 and maybe they eliminated the cupped washers in later years and built it into the arm and spring?
My strut rod bushings came with and used grease, and i used some on spring bolt but looks worthless as its pretty open...no squeaks and usa energy stuff feels like quality..
if worried put a little silicone brake grease on it no problem ..
Last edited by interpon; May 11, 2020 at 10:00 AM.
Ok does anybody have any pics or instructions on installing the Pro-Thane (Energy Suspension) bushings on the t/a? The instructions I got leave a lot to be desired. I know you have to use the cups, but the outside washers don't fit over the bushing sleeve, and appears there is no way of flaring them so they stay on. Need some help here......
Last edited by Giddy-up Go; May 11, 2020 at 04:10 AM.
I didn't use the poly grease in my install, only on bushings that have a rotation component (A-arms, sway bar, etc). It couldn't hurt, though.
Did you check the fit to see if they work on the front spring, too?
it turns out the leaf spring bushings are the same for the front and rear VBP mono leaf springs. Had the ES Bushings installed, adjusted correctly and car aligned and it made a world of difference And the car is sitting correctly now
it turns out the leaf spring bushings are the same for the front and rear VBP mono leaf springs. Had the ES Bushings installed, adjusted correctly and car aligned and it made a world of difference And the car is sitting correctly now
I installed the poly bushings and had a 4 wheel alignment done to the car and it drives like brand new no more wandering in the lane and feeling like I was always chasing the car is gone. Only time will tell how long they last but as a weekend car they will a long time. I can't beleave this was resurrected from June and everyone is still arguing about it. This seams almost as bad as what oil should I use. Ha
Have a great day all and thanks for the help.
Some of us new timer old timers enjoy the chatter. Great to be able to learn from others experiences as there area myriad of products out there. Castrol 10w30 works for me. lol.
Last edited by Oldtimer79; Nov 3, 2020 at 07:37 AM.
Reason: missed a couple of words
Ok does anybody have any pics or instructions on installing the Pro-Thane (Energy Suspension) bushings on the t/a? The instructions I got leave a lot to be desired. I know you have to use the cups, but the outside washers don't fit over the bushing sleeve, and appears there is no way of flaring them so they stay on. Need some help here......
I have got same problem. I have pulled the TA on one side and was about to change the bushings. When I unpacked the box there was an instruction that was generic and more pointed at changing bushings in the strut rods. If they are fitted the way I think they are intended it will be a pain to keep thinks in line to get the bolts through. I now plan to convert to the flared type of set up.
I have seen sleeves listed at different suppliers in original mild steel, in stainless steel and even in aluminum - Any thoughts on that? Aluminum is definitely easier to flare but how about durability?
I'd be happy to share photos once I am done with one side.
ES t/a bushings are a piece of cake. Lube them up good, ( cause everything is better with lubrication) shove the bushings in, shove in the sleeve, put the washers in place, put in the bolt and shims.
Its not rocket science.
A number of people have had issues with poly bushings, but the ES product seems to hold up well.
Ymmv
Jeff
I'm surprised their hasn't been an uproar with some factions that this thread has been resurected.LoL
Last edited by jeffwebley; Nov 3, 2020 at 06:17 PM.
Reason: Clarification and spelling
I haven't seen any evidence of Energy Suspension bushings failing, certainly not the red ones. I think most of the previous failures have been from a combination of poor materials, age, and inappropriate use (trailing arm and strut rods).
That said, I chose not to put poly bushings of any kind in my trailing arms. That is the ONLY pair of rubber bushings left in my car. If I feel the need to upgrade this in the future, I'll install Johnny-Joints (heim-joints).
I now had a closer look at the new ES bushings compared with the original set up. It appear that the ES bushings are 6thou wider than the originals. As one of my TA's has no shims on one side it will mean a 3 thou offset compared with the old set up.
So I am going to make 2 new sleeves and washers to get the same width.
Further the hole for the bolt is too small so I have to get a 7/16" drill to get it through.
(Sorry, I am metric and I measured 1.5 mm difference which means 0.75 mm to each side. The hole is 11.0 mm and 7/16" is 11.11 mm)