patg84

So I moved my '76 L48 onto the lawn from my driveway to fix another car. I went to move the car the next day and what you hear/see in the video is exactly what happened. It failed to crank and then I walked away. What you see in the video is what happened after that failed crank.

The battery that came with the car was an Interstate Mega-Tron ii 650cca. It needed to be replaced anyway as it wouldn't hold a charge for very long; tested at auto store and it failed a load test. Now before replacing the battery with a new one (800 cca, Group 78) the car would did exactly what happens in the video.

After I replaced that battery the same thing happens. The video is shot after I just finished installing the new battery.

The only thing hooked to the battery is the car, no radio etc. I pulled all that aftermarket stuff out as the wiring was iffy.

Literally started the car with zero issues, moved the car into the grass, went to sleep, tried to move it the next morning, wouldn't crank, walked away, went back, cranked all weird sounding.

Anyideas?

JETS C3-C4

Make sure the battery is fully charged.

Check the negative ground cable from the battery to where it is attached on the block and make sure it is clean and has a good connection. Also both battery terminals.

I had a similar problem where oil and dirt had built up on the ground on the block that ended up being a bad connection. Figured it out after taking the starter in and out twice and still had the problem. Hope this helps.

Rescue Rogers

Yes the clicking is usually a sign of a bad solenoid, but it sounds like your battery doesnt have near enough cranking amps which will also act like a bad solenoid. Check all your grounds for the battery connections. THere should be one under the car going to the frame directly from the negative terminal and one from the starter to the frame and one from the motor to the frame. there shouldnt be any rust between the cable and the frame. If those are all good and your battery still tests bad after a good overnight charge then it is dead. You can charge it then have it tested at an auto parts store for free, but ask first to make sure. If its bad install a new one and see if the solenoid still clicks. If it does you can tap it with a rubber mallet or lightly with a hammer. If it frees up and starts, replace the solenoid or the whole starter. I went to an EastCOast electric mini starter { heres their site( http://ecae.com/starter.html ) } for the higher torque and speed since I have a higher compression motor. Works great.

patg84

Cleaned all connections, brand new 800cca battery. Same issue.

jackson

https://www.dbelectrical.com/product...sdr0019-l.html

new Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction starter $50 delivered ... same as what came on Gen1 iron head Vortec 350 in chevy/gmc pickups.
PMGR starters MUCH more efficient than C3 era heavy starters with heavy field coils.

Rescue Rogers

If you are positive it has a full charge and are comfortable with electricity , you can jump across the connections on the solenoid. Wear gloves and use a plastic handled screw driver. or run to an autoparts store and get a remote starter switch. It looks like baby jumper cables with a hand trigger on the other end. You want to touch the connector that is coming from the battery to the same size lug on the opposite side of the sollenoid. If you dont know what I mean you can look it up on youtube. Basically you are bypassing the switched power that activates the relay to put battery power to the starter motor. If it cranks normally the solenoid is propably good. if it doesnt, it is bad. If it spun the starter and the bendixen shot out then Put the power to the switched connector which is the small lug. It should click internally and spin the starter. If it doesn't, the solenoid is bad. You can then remove it and have it tested at the parts store.
reaad the next post for the disclaimer

You are doing this of your own choice, I take no responsibility for your actions, you know, just in case

Edited...too much cough syrup, thanks

Rescue Rogers

heres a few ways to do it.
https://www.bing.com/search?q=jumpin...ZI&form=MOZTSB

You are doing this of your own choice, I take no responsibility for your actions, you know, just in case

OMF

Heard that many times.....that's a starter misalignment. First thing to do is check the ring gear for damage, you can't really fix it properly if the ring gear is damaged. If it's OK then you need to adjust the starter so it engages the ring gear correctly....here's a vid

derekderek

Not enough current to hold solenoid down. The wire to the S terminal is worn-beat-damaged.

L-46man

BTW...everybody always 'chucks a starter' when they hear 'bad solenoid'. (otherwise known as the Bendix). NOT STRICTLY NECESSARY!

Remove starter, clean and grease the puppy.
Remove solenoid, clean inside, clean contacts, clean terminals bright.
Clean Fork and levers on the Bendix.
Re-grease the solenoid plunger, forks/levers with silicone lube and regular grease on the fork and lever points....just everything should be shiny and smooth and lubed.

Bench test (in vise!) with jumper cables....gosh darn,it works!

Usually it's just 'coke' (un-burnt crusty oil residue mixed with dust) gumming up the solenoid and jamming it when the coke/varnish goes solid.

In my experience 80% of the time you're good to go!

Unkahal

stingr69

If it cranks, the solenoid is good.

The connections need to be clean on the battery cables at the battery and at the other end.

Rescue Rogers

I edited my response to be more clear. thanks for catching that. My statement should be taken as a test of the solenoid and possible condition of the starter.

Gianna66

thanks for the help having same issue on my c5z