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The flex plate I received has two bolt pattern 3 of each my old flex plate has 6 bolt and my torque converter has 6 places for bolts Am I only supposed to use 3 bolts with the new flex plate and is that strong enough 3 my transmission is a th400
Many aftermarket flexplates will have 2 sets of 3 bolt holes for the torque converter. GM transmissions often had 10.75" or 11.50" bolt hole patterns on converters. The smaller than stock race converters use the smaller pattern, as does OE ones that are for the 153 tooth flexplates. Some but not all. The flexplate with 6 holes is designed to handle either kind of torque converter.
BTW, make sure you install the flexplate with the correct side facing the engine. Most aftermarket ones will have a stamp to which side is which. On a 400 flexplate, the weight faces the engine.
1 Should I buy another flex plate so I can use all six bolts or is three enough for a 383 2 should I buy a different converter because that one is large compared to the one my buddy has in his 3 there is no numbers on the converter so I don’t know any thing about it And 4th I really appreciate yalls input I want it to be right and really would like to learn to wrench and get to know this car
Guys got some good news. Got Elvis back together an NO VIBRATION thanks to you guys> So I pulled it out of the garage an left a set of black marks from my garage all the way down the cul-de-sac to the stop sign. I am so happy thank yall very much. my wife said im to old to be acting like that I guess she was wrong and so is the home owners association an two of my neighbors. Them marks will be there for a long time. I don't think who ever built the engine put much in it. it has a cast intake and there is nothing special about the heads and it looks like a old junk yard engine. SO im going to start dressing it up with some chrome and a new intake while im in there would like to change the cam that would be a first for me a new set of headers and I would like some mufflers that sound like it did when I took it down the street with just headers on it and may be some of them aluminum pulleys and a electric fan. I would really appreciate yalls input
I live in a cul-de-sac as well and the average age of the residents was about 70 four years ago.......well everyone passed and sold off and they are all within a few years of me now. I just melted them to the stop sign myself the other day in a 71' Dodge demon 340........good for the soul and yes, they are all wrong.
Glad the flexplate fixed it......enjoy!
Now I want to put a airgap intake will it fit? I ordered a 750 holly for it I need to figure out the cam I need would like to go with a retro roller cam and roller rockers and what aluminum heads I need any input would be appreciated
Now I want to put a airgap intake will it fit? I ordered a 750 holly for it I need to figure out the cam I need would like to go with a retro roller cam and roller rockers and what aluminum heads I need any input would be appreciated
Fitment for an Air Gap intake depends on what hood you are running. The stock flat, low hoods won't allow Air Gaps, or RPM Air Gap intakes, or even the RPM intake. All the same height. Edelbrock's literature says this as well.
Hello guys im back to wrenching. I need some help on my valve springs. I need to know the biggest springs I can put on these heads with out machining them so I can change cams. Or the biggest cam I can put in with the stock springs' want to bump it up a little until I get all my parts together for my new engine. I have purchased a scat 383 rotating assembly and a pair of ARF aluminum heads havnt decided on the block yet or cam. I have bought a rpm air gag 7501 and a holly 750 cfm uitra double pumper Red. Any help would be appreciated
If you just bought a pair of AFR heads, why do you need to get valve springs? Every complete AFR head has valve springs. You can even choose the springs you want for the type of camshaft you want.
I am putting the new heads on the new engine all the new parts are for the new engine. I don't know if the engine in the car can handle those heads I thought about putting these parts on there but wasn't sure if the bottom end could take it..Don't want to damage my new parts the heads were 1700 $. I am going to put the holly and intake on it until I get my new engine together. I would like to know how big of a cam I can put in it.
We understand you bought a car that had a swapmeet motor in it and you don't know how or by who is was built.
About all we truly KNOW is it's a 350 block w/ an old GM 400 crank ... now a 383 or thereabouts ...
... with a sketchy build quality assembled w/ some very wrong parts ... two recently corrected.
Hard to fairly recommend without first knowing what the other parts are; old parts will be working in concert with a new part(s).
So ... What's in/on it now?
Heads: casting number
Springs
Cam
Pistons: dish/flat/dome part number
ok thanks I will get the head casting number and try to borrow one of them scopes to send down the spark plug hole. really didn't want to pull the heads yet but I will if I have to. Can I just measure the thickness an diameter of the springs? where is the casting numbers on the pistons.
I have a number from inside of the piston when I was looking at the crank will that work it is 238-99 or 288-99 with a D under the number.
Piston Part number may be stamped/laser etched into crown.
fwiw, piston looks like it's a TRW/SpeedPro Forging.
When full closed, measure spring OD (OE's about 1.22-1.23") ... height from head to bottom of retainer (OE's about 1.7") ... wire diameter. (OE's about 0.17-0.18")
Cam ... measure both intake & exhaust lifts at lifters or at retainers