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You can do it if you can get the car in the air. I last pulled my clutch about 1.5 years ago. I had the car up on Ramps, battery disconnected, and brake pedal held down with piece of pipe (since I had to release the parking brake)..... I've done this several times I only mention the last time because I'm old and I was able to do it.
The first time I removed my tranny was ages ago (25-28 years?) and my crossmember was not removable then. I got the Muncie M-21 out anyway. Takes some coordination to slide it out but it's not impossible. I made my crossmember removable so it's a bit easier now.
I fabbed up a contraption that bolts onto my small floor jack so I can lower the tranny as I get it out. You can go look a this thread for more info and pictures. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1601102293
I'm with Carriljc...I did mine when I was 21....At school on the floor of a loading dock.. Had a friend or two help me muscle it out...I can be done with nothing too particularly special. Cutting the exhaust pipes was the most disturbing part. Oh my! that was 43 years AGO!
Unkahal
My clutch job certainly grew in scale as I pulled parts out. Rebuilt the Z bar, replaced the engine side ball stud, z bar linkage to the clutch fork (and the fork itself due to a broken TO bearing clip) since every hole was oval. Resealed the side cover after changing the combs, springs, etc.
I`m making progress, Driveshaft is unbolted, all bolts are loosened up. I was surprised how loose most of those bolts were. I now understand Bubba a bit more as I just became him, I had to stop working on the car to play carpenter. I made a solid 7x7 x11 our of a 3.5x3.5 post I found around the house. I am gonna use it on my hydraulic jack under the oil pan. I haven't tried it out yet but I will let you know if it works. I`m glad I am doing this myself, as was mentioned before, a shop would not do half the things I see needed. Sammy T, you are spot on! Thank you all for the support.!
Last edited by clevan barclay; Apr 16, 2020 at 05:05 PM.
Don't know if you decided on a specific brand of a replacement clutch yet, but you may want to review this particular thread regarding engagement and disengagement. May save you some future headaches, especially since you're doing this in your driveway. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...vel-range.html
Thank you for the info. Whatever is in there now would be fine with me. I have had zero problems with my clutch until the "shady tree guy" became Ricky Racer! Note to self..Be wary of the Shady Tree Guy!
The Eagle has landed! Always wanted to say that. Update...Trans.and bell housing is on the ground. Clutch and pressure plate is gonna have to wait for tomorrow. I don`t rightly know if I should be thanking you all for getting me this far
Yeah, you wanna pull the distributor so that when you tilt the aft end of the engine down to get the tranny out then you won't break it. If you have problems getting the tranny out with that fixed crossmember ask... there's a couple of tricks if you have problems.
Originally Posted by Sammy T
My clutch job certainly grew in scale as I pulled parts out. Rebuilt the Z bar, replaced the engine side ball stud, z bar linkage to the clutch fork (and the fork itself due to a broken TO bearing clip) since every hole was oval. Resealed the side cover after changing the combs, springs, etc.
The Eagle has landed! Always wanted to say that. Update...Trans.and bell housing is on the ground. Clutch and pressure plate is gonna have to wait for tomorrow. I don`t rightly know if I should be thanking you all for getting me this far
If it has not been mentioned yet, make a set of four six inch long guide pins for your trans re-install. I used threaded rod that I got from Ace and cut to length. Helped a ton getting the trans back in. Also, don’t use the trans to bell housing bolts to close any gap between the trans and bell housing, it will break the ears. Trans should slide right in. I was lucky, mine did just that.
If it has not been mentioned yet, make a set of four six inch long guide pins for your trans re-install. I used threaded rod that I got from Ace and cut to length. Helped a ton getting the trans back in. Also, don’t use the trans to bell housing bolts to close any gap between the trans and bell housing, it will break the ears. Trans should slide right in. I was lucky, mine did just that.
I read about that trick from my research, I will definitely be following your lead. I had a little difficulty removing the Trans.as the shifter, bracket and linkages would not allow it to slide further back. After studying the situation a bit, it dawned on me it`s time to unbolt the bell housing...She just slid down without any more protest!
Yeah, you wanna pull the distributor so that when you tilt the aft end of the engine down to get the tranny out then you won't break it. If you have problems getting the tranny out with that fixed crossmember ask... there's a couple of tricks if you have problems.
Just loosened the Dist. cap. I was aware of the potential disy prob.but it did not revealed it self.
I took my cap off and rotated the distributor so the vacuum canister would not touch the firewall. Used tape to mark the relative position so I could return it to as close as possible to original position, then threw a timing light on it to dial it in.
yeh!.. that`s how i really feel. Mr. Lars and his quote is responsible for me embarking on this journey. I will tell you this...once you have gone this far, do it right!
Last edited by clevan barclay; Apr 17, 2020 at 11:03 PM.
If you cannot get the tranny to slide into the clutch easily especially for the last couple of inches despite your best attempts at aligning the 2 components using the alignment tool (DON"T USE THE JUNK PLASTIC TOOLS THAT COME WITH THE CLUTCH KIT), then hook up the clutch linkage to the clutch, have a helper go into the car and step on the clutch pedal which will release the clutch from the flywheel, magically, allowing the tranny shaft and the clutch some movement and they will easily slide together. I am astounded you rarely see this easy tip mentioned. The toughest part of the clutch replacement is getting the 2 components to mate together once the new clutch kit is installed. The rest of the procedure is pretty straightforward.....
This step should be stated in every clutch kit instruction and it is NOT.....................
Last edited by jb78L-82; Apr 18, 2020 at 07:45 AM.
If you cannot get the tranny to slide into the clutch easily especially for the last couple of inches despite your best attempts at aligning the 2 components using the alignment tool (DON"T USE THE JUNK PLASTIC TOOLS THAT COME WITH THE CLUTCH KIT), then hook up the clutch linkage to the clutch, have a helper go into the car and step on the clutch pedal which will release the clutch from the flywheel, magically, allowing the tranny shaft and the clutch some movement and they will easily slide together. I am astounded you rarely see this easy tip mentioned. The toughest part of the clutch replacement is getting the 2 components to mate together once the new clutch kit is installed. The rest of the procedure is pretty straightforward.....
This step should be stated in every clutch kit instruction and it is NOT.....................
Although with this trick you can actually make the junk plastic tool work - it can get you close enough if you are careful with it. I have an old input shaft I use with a Muncie/Sag. With my Tremec I had to use the plastic junk. Just use it to get it as close as you can - it takes some feel - and then do as JB78L-82 describes to get the tranny to seat.
Although with this trick you can actually make the junk plastic tool work - it can get you close enough if you are careful with it. I have an old input shaft I use with a Muncie/Sag. With my Tremec I had to use the plastic junk. Just use it to get it as close as you can - it takes some feel - and then do as JB78L-82 describes to get the tranny to seat.
Yes!!!!
I used the plastic alignment tool that came with my kit and spend hours trying to get the tranny and clutch to slide the last 2 inches. I even pulled the engine out once to make sure the clutch was installed correctly (I rebuilt the engine at the same time).
Not one person mentioned the stepping on the clutch inside the car after hooking up the linkage. I found the tip on a suburu forum, of all places, searching the internet. Forget about all the other ideas about using long bolts in the bell housing etc. Just do this^^^^^^^^^^^^^. The tranny and clutch slide together once the clutch pedal was pressed on. I was SO PISSSED no one told me that tip..........
Last edited by jb78L-82; Apr 19, 2020 at 01:13 PM.
I use the plastic alignment tool and only two guide bolts. Works fine for me .... many times.
Unfortunately for me, I tried the 2 guide bolts suggestion as well on my install and no go...the only thing that worked was stepping on the clutch pedal and sliding the 2 together........
I do all of them, guide studs, step on clutch, and I have used the plastic alignment tool successfully.
Last time I "pressed" the pilot bushing in, instead of pounding it in, and I got nice and flush with the flywheel. I then lifted the tranny (and engine) to a more elevated (higher up) position.....the tranny slipped in so easily that I was then wondering what the heck I forgot???? SO, I pulled it back out and lowered the tranny to check. Hmmmm..... I didn't forget anything so i raised it back up high and shoved it in again ---again very easily.
I used the plastic alignment tool that came with my kit and spend hours trying to get the tranny and clutch to slide the last 2 inches. I even pulled the engine out once to make sure the clutch was installed correctly (I rebuilt the engine at the same time).
Not one person mentioned the stepping on the clutch inside the car after hooking up the linkage. I found the tip on a suburu forum, of all places, searching the internet. Forget about all the other ideas about using long bolts in the bell housing etc. Just do this^^^^^^^^^^^^^. The tranny and clutch slide together once the clutch pedal was pressed on. I was SO PISSSED no one told me that tip..........
Let me get this straight. You pulled the engine out to make sure the clutch was installed correctly and decided to rebuild the engine? If there is a prize for the best 'while I was at it' story, you win!!
Let me get this straight. You pulled the engine out to make sure the clutch was installed correctly and decided to rebuild the engine? If there is a prize for the best 'while I was at it' story, you win!!
NO NO!!!!..
Engine was out for the rebuild and changed the clutch at the same time. When I could not get the tranny to slide in BEFORE the engine was bolted in and all hooked up, I decided one time to pull it back out over the front fender to check everything was correct with the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, flywheel etc......
Last edited by jb78L-82; Apr 19, 2020 at 06:48 PM.