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This is a suggestion to do something I will do EVERY TIME from now on.
Check a switch for fitting and working correctly before installing it.
This switch for the proportioning valve was supplied with the new valve assembly. It had the later plastic switch already installed, but the wire terminal was different, so I took it out and installed the metal one.
In went the new valve, (hoping to correct a rear brake problem), and now the brake light is on. So here we go, my buddy and me, bleeding, opening one end of the hydraulic system at a time, pushing the pedal quickly, you name it, we tried every idea I could find. But, the light won't go out. We decided to try the plastic one with a little made-up terminal adapter, put it in, and the light is now Look at the pins.
out. I tested the old switch and the new one with an ohm meter and the new one passes current while the old one does not. Then I looked at both of them carefully and saw that the little plunger was stuck part way in, more than enough to pass current and turn on the light.
SIX wasted hours and frustration because of a cheap, shitty switch.
Never again.
Well, as the design engineering for proportioning valves during the 60's and 70's, I can tell you that the original switch was most likely made by AMP Inc. It is pretty bullet proof. Yours looks like it's in good condition with no corrosion. I'd just clean it up a little and stick it back in. Push the plunder a couple times with your OHM meter across it to made sure it's working right. As far as the other one goes, it's likely a offshore copy of the AMP switch.......junk.
Well, as the design engineering for proportioning valves during the 60's and 70's, I can tell you that the original switch was most likely made by AMP Inc. It is pretty bullet proof. Yours looks like it's in good condition with no corrosion. I'd just clean it up a little and stick it back in. Push the plunder a couple times with your OHM meter across it to made sure it's working right. As far as the other one goes, it's likely a offshore copy of the AMP switch.......junk.
That's about what I thought. Off-shore the thing so it's half the price and one-tenth as good. I try everything I can to buy stuff made in Europe, the US, Canada, etc, anywhere but f**&&g China, but sometimes there's not much you can do about it.
The pin in the old switch is free moving, while the one in the new switch kind of grates when you push it in, and then doesn't come all the way back out. I think I'll take your suggestion and put the old one back in next time I'm under the car.
Thanks for the info.
10-25-2020, 05:41 AM
Don't Waste Your Time Like I Did
