I suspect you're on the right track with the thought that the lug studs are angled in some way. The inside of the rotor looks fine and shouldn't have been the sole reason you had such a struggle getting it off. As far as I know, the studs are a press fit. Maybe heating the hub (and not the studs) with a torch to expand the hole. I'm not sure if you can get replacements in while the hub is still in the car... You may have to resort to pulling the hub from the trailing arm, but there are more experienced folks than I in this chore.

 

I agree with the heat. But keep it localizes and for a short time. Don't use a screwdriver. Get a 1/4 inch flat punch and hit it with a hammer.

 

Any machine shop can put those on a lathe and turn those ridges off on the inside so they go on easier and don't get hung up on the e brake shoes. Check with your local Napa - the bigger ones sometimes do rotors.

 

The wheel studs can be changed in-situ but you may have to grind a bevel on the head to clear the backing plate. It is an extremely tight fit but doable without having to pull the axle. Make sure the replacement studs are no longer than your originals.

 

i think i would be leaving the old studs if you can stull put rotor on by hand without beating... and just focus on the one missing..check for bugared threads if wheel was loose and bouncing around..
seems like a lot of wear for an e brake..

 

I wonder if the OP got his stuck rotor from living in Minnesota where they get corrosion from salting the roads? Here in central FL we get it from the salt in the air (Atlantic Ocean < 1 mile away). I was changing out a IWE actuator on left front of my wife's 2016 Ford 4x4. Youtube guy takes wheel, caliper, brake pads off then calmly pulls rotor off by grabbing it at 9 and 3 olock. Fast forward a day and a half and I'm still beating on that thing from every angle, plus squirting penetrating oil on everything with no luck. I was just about to start in with the torch when I realized I needed something from auto supply store. I go up there and low and behold 4-5 mechanics from the Big 10 tire place next door are all standing around doing nothing. I walk over and ask this early 20s kid what do they do when they have a rotor stuck bad. He says they just beat them off with a BFH. So I ask if that messes up the rotor? He looks at me kinda funny and says,"Oh you want to reuse the rotor?" I said yeah I'd kinda like to keep the rotor/just trying to get to the IWE actuator.

So I go home and watch Youtube video guy for the 20th time when it dawns on me! The rotor doesn't have to come off (it would just be lighter if it was off). The upper A frame bolt and the rest of the front end stuff can all be taken loose with the rotor still on. So that's what I did/got it back together no problemo.

Unfortunately that rotor is still stuck on there. You can see rust/corrosion where inside edge of rotor meets the hub. It's probably welded on there from corrosion. I'd still like to hear a good way to get that off for future reference. I've watched other videos where guys run a bolt with two nuts on backside through caliper bracket and mechanically force the rotor to break free. Does that really work without bending/breaking something?

Many thanks in advance!

 

You're so far down the rabbit hole at this point you might as well pull the T/A and do this right with the correct tools. Just saying.

Rip the band-aid off, it will only hurt once.

 

Ok - back at it. got an air hammer from a neighbor...that worked like a champ and the broken stud is now out of the hub!!! But, your suspicions are correct, I don't see how I can fit a new stud in from behind without either cutting/grinding some of the bold head off, or cutting a little notch/window in the dust plate....hmmmm....

 

Carefully grind/file a 45 degree on about 1/4 of the head of the new stud. It will take a few trials and you may need to tap it/nudge it to clear the backing plate.

 

Well - I was nervous about cutting/altering the stud and opted for cutting a little access slot in the dust plate. I guess this now makes me part Bubba, and I'm not happy about that. But I figure some day I will pull the trailing arm and have it rebuilt, and when I do I can replace that dust shield. But today isn't the day for me to pull the trailing arm. Oh well.

 

Don’t lose any sleep over that. Looks like a nice clean cut. I would do a quick job to blend out the sharp edges and call it a day.

 

Thanks - really appreciate your help and support along the way. I will smooth out the edges as you suggest. Then I will cut the rest of the studs shorter so they are easier to get out and use the air hammer to remove the remaining studs. Then I can finally start putting things back together and hopefully drive the darn thing before it's too cold!

 

And there we have it... 5 new wheel studs in place! Now, to replace parking break hardware with new stainless set I purchased...

 

Nice! Did you fit the rotor back on to see if the studs fixed the hard-fit problem?

 

I just put it on...I'll admit, it doesn't go on as slick as my other cars...but it does go on.