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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
If you are driving it, a warped rotor could make a lip seal pump air into your caliper...I never experienced it, but I have had lots of caliper seal failures. Ive had master cylinder issues and brake booster issues. IF you have air seeping in there would be fluid seeping out. If you gain air sitting overnight it is either a leaking master that has brought in air through pumping the piston at the master and the air is being pumped down into the caliper, then its expanding over night. Or you may have a sticking/ rubbing brake pad that is over heating a caliper that is boiling the fluid and crating gas bubbles that act like air in the caliper.....I believe if a caliper was leaking you would have fluid there as well.
Next time you drive it, touch the wheel rim with the back of you hand. most will be cool to warm, not hot, a dragging caliper will make the rim hot
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Aug 22, 2021 at 07:56 PM.
Stop being a whiny biatch. You're being as bad as anybody insulting people. don't be an ***. If you don't want to help, then don't.
Originally Posted by Rescue Rogers
I've been Working my jobs, collecting an earned paycheck, protecting my family and friends, rebuilding my brakes and driving the absolute **** out of my car and living to tell about it.... If you pull a caliper apart and the bores are bad, then you are an idiot for rebuilding it and not replacing it. Sorry I cant help you if you are a Libtard but common sense dictates that if you just bought a NEW remanufactured set and they leak, then its probably prudent that you dont use lipseals again. They arent a very reliable engineered product. They have been around for a long time but so hasnt Biden.
As for seals not holding DOT 3, thats probably and untruth or exaggeration, Pistons getting cocked in their bores can only happen if the brake pad comes out, Oring failure in the casting haves is just poor assembly procedures.
You have 2 caliber haves. a small o ring seal that fits in a shallow machined grove, a set of pistons, seals and Orings for those pistons with return springs. Im sorry if you cant assemble something so simple, maybe stick to the ash tray rebuild
All I see from your posts is that you lash out and belittle posters that are seeking help or offering help. Maybe you should seek employment at he local vehicle registry.
The OP can make decisions for him or her own self without you attacking them....
I love you guys that have a few likes in 20 plus years and no real posts or articles call names
You know the rules. Leave politics out of the forum.
I didn't "attack" you, I was questioning why you have not read the posts on difficult issues when rebuilding brake parts yourself. Its there if you read other peoples posts.
SO,,,,After driving the car yesterday, this morning I still have a solid pedal. Hummm.
CSSB has very nice looking O-ring original calipers at a good price.
You have to be careful when changing calipers on the early C3's. The front and back calipers have different sizes of pistons. This creates differential braking from the front to back. This is necessary for safe braking. Later cars create differential braking through the proportioning valve. The 68 doesn't have this kind of valve.
I just did the SSBinc High temp O-ring kit in all my calipers. Very nice kit with all the parts you will need (seals, new blue pistons, bleeders, plugs, pad pins etc.). It comes with foam blocks to hold pistons open but I don't use them. The metal caliper clips are better but I don't have them (they help you install the pads on the rotor). You can't use DOT 5 with all the new seals... DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 are all basically the same but as the number goes up the temp rating goes up. You can get high temp DOT4 and its prob similar to 5.1. You shouldn't have any issues with any of that fluid as long as it's not DOT 5 (silicone).
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Originally Posted by kodpkd
STOP IT!
SO,,,,After driving the car yesterday, this morning I still have a solid pedal. Hummm.
CSSB has very nice looking O-ring original calipers at a good price.
You have to be careful when changing calipers on the early C3's. The front and back calipers have different sizes of pistons. This creates differential braking from the front to back. This is necessary for safe braking. Later cars create differential braking through the proportioning valve. The 68 doesn't have this kind of valve.
How far have you driven it? Did you get a chance to touch the rims to see if they are different temps? It could be you finally got the last bit of stubborn air out. I would keep track of your driving distances and time and see if the problem comes back. If you didnt touch your brake pedal very many times maybe you didnt pump any air into the lines. Maybe you didnt get stuck in traffic or hit to many stop signs or traffic lights.....
Save your money on the calipers until the issue presents itself again. It may not be the calipers. Maybe the bleeder itself wasnt sealing....
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Aug 23, 2021 at 07:36 PM.
I agree. BUT,,,,,,,, I have two different seal kits coming. I do like to tinker and figure things out. It does seem like when I tried to bed the new rotors in, is when they got screwed up. Maybe heating up the rotors a bit, caused them to suck air in somehow. What I haven't head with all the different suggestions,,,,,,, is why this might happen.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
Heating fluid may produce gas....if there was water in your brake fluid you could have boiled it into a gas creating air in the lines... Other than that heating would expand the casting maybe letting a seal leak. Next time you have them apart blue dye the one of the halves and dry bolt them to gther and see if the housing is warped.... just a few ideas
Soooooo. I rebuilt just the front left caliper. I couldn't see any reason why it would be leaking. Checked the seals, the same ones, old vs new ones. Installed it and now I have a nice hard pedal. Test driving it in hot weather a few days now. Great to be hard again. The only thing I can think of, is a seal got scratched the last time I installed the seals. I'm not sure how I pushed the lip seals into the caliper bore last time but this time I used a small plastic wedge and was very careful. I wish I had a perfect sized piece of PVC to put the piston and seal in like installing piston rings in an engine. Not sure what the size would be.
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