When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Paul didn't see the (estimated power). You can go to those online CFM to HP calculators. But like anything it's a general idea. You would have to plug in the flow numbers at all the lift points and how much time the cam spends at each lift point. That's where H-roller cams loose out to S-roller cams. H-rollers have milder ramp rates on the cam lobes, so even with the same .050 cam duration specs the H-roller is a big looser as rpms go up. Because the time to fill a cylinder goes away with rpm. Higher lift and the valve opened to the higher flow rates for a longer period of time make the most high end power.
Uninformed people will always tell you the greatness of H-roller. Like the dumb statement: The H-roller doesn't have the loss of lift because of "ZERO" lash. That would only be true if you used a solid roller on the H-rollers cam.
If you go to the Comp Cams lobe profile charts. The cams have .200 valve lift duration numbers. That tells you how aggressive the lobe ramp is. Comp Cams extreme series H-roller with the same .050 duration numbers as a solid roller, but lobes might be 40 degrees less duration at .200 lift. So the clueless uninformed might tell you that they had this or that dynoed with a H-roller and they of course will get more power than you poor Sollid roller guys! It's all about flow and I was just at the NHRA drags. The Pro stock car guys have a 10,500 rev limiter and 1.00 inch valve lifts creating nearly 3 HP per cubic inch. You are not going to do that with your sorry H-roller
Even with my little 383's and 396 ci I was always smoking the LS-7 Z06 Vettes around the track. They only have 505 HP. They have some technological advantages and a broader TQ curve. But I had less weight and things pretty sorted out. So it's not a fair comparison.
Paul didn't see the (estimated power). You can go to those online CFM to HP calculators. But like anything it's a general idea. You would have to plug in the flow numbers at all the lift points and how much time the cam spends at each lift point. That's where H-roller cams loose out to S-roller cams. H-rollers have milder ramp rates on the cam lobes, so even with the same .050 cam duration specs the H-roller is a big looser as rpms go up. Because the time to fill a cylinder goes away with rpm. Higher lift and the valve opened to the higher flow rates for a longer period of time make the most high end power.
Uninformed people will always tell you the greatness of H-roller. Like the dumb statement: The H-roller doesn't have the loss of lift because of "ZERO" lash. That would only be true if you used a solid roller on the H-rollers cam.
If you go to the Comp Cams lobe profile charts. The cams have .200 valve lift duration numbers. That tells you how aggressive the lobe ramp is. Comp Cams extreme series H-roller with the same .050 duration numbers as a solid roller, but lobes might be 40 degrees less duration at .200 lift. So the clueless uninformed might tell you that they had this or that dynoed with a H-roller and they of course will get more power than you poor Sollid roller guys! It's all about flow and I was just at the NHRA drags. The Pro stock car guys have a 10,500 rev limiter and 1.00 inch valve lifts creating nearly 3 HP per cubic inch. You are not going to do that with your sorry H-roller
Even with my little 383's and 396 ci I was always smoking the LS-7 Z06 Vettes around the track. They only have 505 HP. They have some technological advantages and a broader TQ curve. But I had less weight and things pretty sorted out. So it's not a fair comparison.
I have zero problems with any of the stock Z's to this date....
and my HC still lays down over 530 RWHP... :-) (and I'm at 3000lbs) but you remember my build at the time,,, I put in every whizzbang thing I could.... it was a no money limit build... I fridggen LOVE smoking Dodge Demons:-)
Have yet come across a plaid at 60mph..... but I'm looking...and like I stated... I start generating hard tq at 2000rpm..and I have spun that bitch to 7500 rpm several times, then the rev limiter hits....best shift is 6500, but the engine spins up so fast and power continues to be there with zero valve float out of my HC:-) it becomes hard to "feel" the shift point... now I got a great big shift light going...it helps,,, but if I miss the gear.. bam! rev limiter.
next time you here in California, if I haven't given it to Danny yet, then it will be in Utah... lets take her out to willow springs.
Hey George,... going to SEMA? we will have a booth there this year, come see us!!! I'll buy ya a $20 stale convention burger:-)
Danny and Chris have there products there...
Your guys cars are very nice I am running a short 4.095 in height team g intake 434 dart 220 heads shp block 10.7 compression with a 598/583 lift and 253/261 duration with 1.6 ratio and I am pulling over 650 hp easy with a holley xp 950 carb tremec 6 speed willwood big brakes borgeson box vansteel coil over suspension this motor pulls hard in any direction and easy to drive and to top t off vintage air conditioning .
I did not want to go overboard on my first 383 solid roller motor so I only when with Dart heads factory ported 227cc with 2.08/1,625 valves because I was going to be using a 375 HP two stage NO2 system for drag racing with a 700R4 and 4.11 rear end. I had to hog out Hooker S/C 1 3/4 headers to port match the exhaust head size. It was a little lazy driving on the street less than 2500 rpm. So on the first refresh I down sized to AFR 210 heads which made it a wonderful machine. Bracket racing with a 11.70 dial in time all motor and no NO2. We used the 375 HP kit on a friends on a 69 Camaro 406 and it broke a couple on crank shafts. I later broke my 427 sbc crank shaft. Eagle and Scat forged cranks are crap when you start getting over 900 hp with NO2. Mine actually broke road racing. Mine was a bad balancing job and probably hurt from NO2
AFR 210's are great for your 400 and less CI motors. When I went to 427 SBC I put on my spare 227 cc Darts with now upgraded Angle milled 2.10/1.625 with the Manley Proflow valves and additional intake flow bench time. .
Your guys cars are very nice I am running a short 4.095 in height team g intake 434 dart 220 heads shp block 10.7 compression with a 598/583 lift and 253/261 duration with 1.6 ratio and I am pulling over 650 hp easy with a holley xp 950 carb
Do a dyno?
Easy to say.... not always easy to do....
your heads and compression tell me different.
I would drop coin in a bet, that you do not break 500hp on a chassis dyno... what exhaust? if it 2.5" and the headers are smaller than 1 7/8", you wont pull more than 475...
I have run a lot of dyno runs myself.....and have seen many cry afterwards:-). (yea, i own my own Dyno) hey... could be wrong....
VERY CLEAN engine bay!!! nice.
Wanted to add...... My very good friend, George, called me out on hp numbers about 20 years ago on this forum!!! he was correct, and i was full of ****:-).... I have learned a lot in 20 years doing this!! lol
And btw George,,, you have not answered me about SEMA... coming?? don't let me harass you on text!
I did not want to go overboard on my first 383 solid roller motor so I only when with Dart heads factory ported 227cc with 2.08/1,625 valves because I was going to be using a 375 HP two stage NO2 system for drag racing with a 700R4 and 4.11 rear end. I had to hog out Hooker S/C 1 3/4 headers to port match the exhaust head size. It was a little lazy driving on the street less than 2500 rpm. So on the first refresh I down sized to AFR 210 heads which made it a wonderful machine. Bracket racing with a 11.70 dial in time all motor and no NO2. We used the 375 HP kit on a friends on a 69 Camaro 406 and it broke a couple on crank shafts. I later broke my 427 sbc crank shaft. Eagle and Scat forged cranks are crap when you start getting over 900 hp with NO2. Mine actually broke road racing. Mine was a bad balancing job and probably hurt from NO2
AFR 210's are great for your 400 and less CI motors. When I went to 427 SBC I put on my spare 227 cc Darts with now upgraded Angle milled 2.10/1.625 with the Manley Proflow valves and additional intake flow bench time. .
My competition ported AFR's at .7 is 326 intake, and 245 exhaust for head flow.
on your data sheet, you are at .7 is 309 intake and 226 exhaust.
If i remember correctly, a good easement on power is 2 X the head flow.. so my 326 is capable of 652 hp and a 309 head flow is good for 618 hp.
What size carb are you running? im running a 1,2000 cfm throttle body with 8 injectors.
I know you have big exhaust like me...
you will never see 600hp in a 2.5" duel exhaust...or smaller than 1 7/8" headers...
the flow will not allow it.
i am very happy with my Calies Dragon Slayer crank:-) some say its good to near 1500 hp
Last edited by pauldana; Aug 16, 2022 at 03:28 PM.
Easy to say.... not always easy to do....
your heads and compression tell me different.
I would drop coin in a bet, that you do not break 500hp on a chassis dyno... what exhaust? if it 2.5" and the headers are smaller than 1 7/8", you wont pull more than 475...
I have run a lot of dyno runs myself.....and have seen many cry afterwards:-). (yea, i own my own Dyno) hey... could be wrong....
VERY CLEAN engine bay!!! nice.
I did 2 dynos engine and chassis smaller cam than op and 10.7 compression .
It's all about flow and I was just at the NHRA drags. The Pro stock car guys have a 10,500 rev limiter and 1.00 inch valve lifts creating nearly 3 HP per cubic inch. You are not going to do that with your sorry H-roller
