Howdy folks. I am looking at these headers -
https://www.sandersonheaders.com/san...ategory_id=649

And am wondering if anyone has installed them on a 1980 C3. If so, were they a good fit? Or what did you have to do to get them to work?

I really like the look of them and need headers that will fit my Vette.

Any info on these would be greatly appreciated.

Mike

 

They are a good alternative if your factory manifolds are boxy and restrictive. There would be an argument for long tube headers but a good set of cast iron headers will still flow. I recently cleaned up my manifolds for my ‘68 427 and had to say I don’t see where a set of shorty headers would have any advantage over them their shape is just that good. Sanderson’s should be the same. They’ll also last forever, still have a stock look and have no ground clearance issues.
Then I found this video on YouTube of a Vette running in the 9’s at 148mph. It’s obviously got a lot of work done but i’m watching it and damn ! They’re running the factory cast iron manifolds !!!
Same exact ones that are on my car If I had any thought left in my head to go to headers they’re gone now.

 

My Vette will be a daily driver, as I have NO intention of it being a "Garage Queen". Long tube headers are problematical for HEAT issues, in areas where heat wasn't intended. So, I am looking for a good set of good flowing exhaust manifolds/headers that will keep HEAT where the engineers designed the car to have HEAT. I'm not building a race car, but a car that I can drive as much as possible. I'm just looking for a better flowing exhaust that won't mess with stuff that has issues with HEAT where HEAT wasn't intended. (Have I said HEAT enough? :-) )

 

Those are a waste of money. they don't make power and make more heat then long tube

 

Can you support that assertion? I have no experience with these, so I am willing to listen to folks who do.

 

I'd rather have a set of 2.5 inch ram horn factory manifolds than those shorty headers. Either go long tubes or don't bother.

 

I had those on my 79 L82 before I went to Stan's Tri-Y. They were excellent quality and fit but as others have said, they probably didn't do much for HP gains.

 

A properly tuned engine with long tube headers will put a lot less heat in the cabin than the stock system.

 

I've got a new pair of Doug's D350 long tube ceramic coated headers in the for sale section if you end up going that route.

 

Very odd statement without any scientific proof. On second thought, you might be able to prove that the starter might be subjected to more heat because of the proximity of the long tube headers and the starter motor. If you were realy worried you could add header wraping tape in that area or even by the drivers firewall. But I have had long tube headers and true dual exhaust for about 42 years on my 79 vette and have never had a starter problem. My typical summer day in Las Vegas is about 110 degrees and the A/C would freeze me on max. I actually think that the cat delete dual exhaust eliminated lots of under car heat.

My original Headman 1 5/8th headers were a wonderful fit. I installed them and drove 15 miles into a muffler shop with just uncapped headers and NO exhaust system on the car. They put on a beautiful 2 1/2 inch true dual with free flowing mufflers out back in the stock location. It actually increased MPG and had a nice sound.

 

Nope just common sense. And as far as long tube headers creating heat problems I would have to say no. Unless they are a poor design. If you are going to use shorty headers stick with stock manifolds

 

Here is what I used on my GM ZZ383 1978 corvette (d-port heads)
Sanderson CC1DP Header Set (sandersonheaders.com)

This car was used for track days, worked great including Torque/HP. Main issue is with spark plug wires. I needed to install heat shields to prevent wire boots melting. Very close to the headers.
As for heat under hood never caused any problems at the track. Closest contact was the driver side steering box. Here is my test fit using the factory L48 engine.

 

These are summit brand 130bucks best long tube sbc header I have ever used. No clearance issue no oil filter issue no starter issue even with a big block stock one. Better than a hooker, I know that's not saying much

 

I truly appreciate the replies. After more research on my part, I see that the Summit Racing Headers seem to be the best fit. Thinking I'll go with them.

Again, I appreciate the replies and knowledge from you great folks.

 

His manifolds are ported so much its amazing they dont cave in ..

 

Couple things......first, the exhaust manifold on a big block is a better flowing manifold than the exhaust manifold on a small block. So using the big block race car comparison as an example does not mean the small block manifold could be made to do the same. Although people port those, and improve what they do......which may be all you need given the reality of what you want. You can also buy 2-1/2 small block exhaust manifolds that were made for earlier Corvettes that will be better than the later model 2-1/4 small block manifold.

All this stuff about headers creating excess heat is a mystery to me. I have uncoated stainless headers on my 77, and I have ZERO heat issues into the car nor do I melt spark plug wires.....so just the installation of uncoated steel headers is not the problem. There are hundreds of threads about this. Some people get it. Others look past what the problems really are.

FIrst....you have to have all the engineering solutions that Chevy put into the car when they were manufactured. This includes:

- foam horseshoe collar around top on bell housing.....BIG ONE. Prevent engine heat from traveling down driveshaft tunnel, then into the car by the passengers legs, and at shifter.
- foam seal around back of hood, so that engine heat is not directly dumped into the wiper bay area,...which is the source point of air into the cabin heat / AC system in the car
- firewall insulation must be installed, and any and all holes in the firewall plugged to prevent heat from the engine bay into the car
- ALL the heat / AC doors inside the heater/ AC boxes must have good seals....if they have never been changed, they are dry rot and useless, allowing heat into the car
- there should be good carpet backing under the carpet.....but better yet, some cheap Lowes Reflectix heat insulation cut and installed under the carpet. I have this, as well as LizardSkin sprayed on entire inside surface of the car. AGAIN....ZERO heat coming into the car.....my right foot on the gas pedal is about six inches from an uncoated stainless header, and I feel ZERO heat, even on a 95 degree day in PA.

Then, there is the engine tune. The original tuning makes for a hot engine. Look up Lars recommendations on timing, and you will find a massive difference in performance, as well as heat reduction. I also have an aluminum Dewitts radiator....and my coolant temp is NEVER above 180 degrees, even on the 95 degree days.

Another point.....the engine makes heat....not the manifolds or headers.

Lastly.....I don't have airconditioning, power steering, power brakes, emissions pumps,...SO...my engine compartment is wide open, uncluttered with all the physical barriers to airflow. So, I believe that there is a functional purging of engine bay heat from the radiator fan pushing air right out the two vents on the lower fenders. I can actually feel the heat flowing out of those vents when the engine is running when parked, and I suspect they are really flowing when the car is going down the road. Look at the pictures below....and then visually ADD all the above stated garbage and tell me it does not prevent ventilation.

ALL of this makes a difference........headers are not the problem.

 

Headers have come a long ways...most have nice thick flanges which was the issue that made most guys hate them back in the day
Those sanderson flanges are super thick!!
Those shortys may not give the effect of long tubes but certainly better than stock. The rams horns have those bosses inside which kill airflow.
So those are an improvement also.

 

 

I must add… the last post is just a personal opinion.. and my seat of the pants experiences .. starting with a 69 roadrunner in 1978 .. graffiti nights in Modesto california (yes it was a real thing)started my life long addiction as a motorhead.. Sandersons are very costly.. lots more budget friendly options…. But the are very COOL

 

Can't speak to horse power gain or loss but on my 98 Wrangler with LS6/4L60E combo I used Sanderson block hugger headers. Bolted them on almost 15 years ago and have had zero leaks.