SEE3ER

I recently purchased a rear valance, and a front spoiler. They are both non-painted from vendor, one is black, the other is grey. Before I try to paint these black, what should I use for sandpaper, primer etc? They seem to be pretty smooth now?
Thanks! :cheers:

ry

i was told that when sanding the vette you should only use a orbital sander, and the wet sand it by hand... as far as primer... i think one brand is as good as another. since your car is a dark color try to find a dark primer. i think the color is a maroonish color. someone else can probally add a lot to this more then i can.

SEE3ER

TTT

GRAYGHOST

There is a nice piece in this months Cars & Parts-Corvette on C3 body repair.

Corz

what ya do is simple... give em to me; i can have them done by saturday night :yesnod: .

Use 220 grit sandpaper to give them a nice scuff. After that use any Urethane Based Catalized primer.. do not use Lacquer or Air Dried Primer.

I would reccomend K36 from PPG :cheers:

after thats primed... 400 grit water sand the parts (dont break through) then you'll be ready for paint

Solidlifters

"There is a nice piece in this months Cars & Parts-Corvette on C3 body repair."

If this is the same article that somebody posted here several weeks ago, it's ABSOLUTELY THE WORST ADVICE I'VE EVER SEEN IN PRINT. It involves sheetrock tape and body filler instead of conventional, accepted methods.

sb69coupe

I'd have to agree, it's full of outdated or just plain poor advice. The laquer non-catalyzed glazing putty that the author is using is a really poor product. There are much better products to use under modern paint systems.

It really stinks since I love the magazine as a whole and hate to see them passing on bad advice in a tech series.

SEE3ER

Ok, so where do I get this stuff? :confused:

CF6873

Instead of sanding the parts twice you could sand them with 320-400 and seal with epoxy primer-sealer. The sealer does not need to be sanded if you paint it the same day. Good Luck, Craig

SEE3ER

Craig, is this 320-400 wet paper? and where do I get epoxy primer-sealer? How soon after do I paint this the same day?
Thanks :cheers:

Solidlifters

Generally I don't like to sand factory glass that's been properly stripped. Some people feel that it needs scuffing to give it some "teeth" for the primer to stick to, but I've been doing it the same way for years and have yet to have a peeling problem. In the case of replacement stuff, like an old GM press moulded replacement panel, the glass requires some smoothing. Depending on the quality of the aftermarket stuff, you most likely have the same situation and some sanding may be required. The materials mentioned are generally available at any automotive paint store. The newer catalyst type primers have many advantages, but the fumes are VERY toxic. Reaction to the catalysts can range from asma like symptoms to respiratory failure and shouldn't be taken lightly.

paintdaddy

If its good and smooth with no pits or pinholes you can sand it with some 4oo ,seal it with some epoxy sealer and paint it.If there are any imperfections you need to sand it then prime it with a urethane primer,sand that and paint it. :seeya

l2vette

Check out this web site for some great info on painting your Vette. http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/PaintTechPaper.doc
:cheers:

paintdaddy

Thats a pretty good sight but some of those products were discontinued from production a few years ago.Thanks . :seeya

CF6873

See3er, The parts can be sanded wet or dry, it doesn't matter a whole lot. You can get the epoxy sealer at almost any paint supply store. Also epoxy does not contains isocyinates which makes it slightly less dangerous than urethane primers. If there are small imperfections you could fill them with poly putty and sand that with 320 and still prime/seal only once. As far as how soon after sealing can you paint , I know with Dupont products such as 2540S it can be topcoated as soon as it has dried to the touch but I would wait a couple of hours. Good Luck, Craig :chevy

SEE3ER

Thanks for all the input guys! :cheers: I had no idea this was so involved for two little pieces. :banghead: I guess I was thinking it would be like sanding down the old wheel barrow, hitting it with some rustoleum primer and then finish paint! :nono: I think I'd rather rebuild a motor then attempt this body stuff! :skep: Maybe it is time to seek a pro? :confused: OK! I'm chicken when it comes to body work!
:bb


[Modified by SEE3ER, 8:23 AM 2/8/2003]

Roadster71

Here's what I did when I painted my car.
1. wet sand with 400 grit paper.
2. wash and clean
3. inspect and fill any inperfections with a polyester based body filler and or glase.
4. wet sand repairs to blend.
5. wash and clean
6. spray with PPG DP epoxy, mixed as a sealer, 2 coats.
7. lightly rub down with fine scotchbrite.
8. wash and clean.
9. wipe down with prepaint degeaser from PPG. (can't remember product number)
10. spray with PPG K36 primer surfacer, 3 coats.
11. wet sand with 600 grit paper.
12. wash and clean.
13. wipe down with prepaint degeaser from PPG.
14. wipe down with a tack cloth
15. spray your top coats.
16. color sand with 1000. 1500 and 2000 wet paper.
17. buff

Broken down into steps it sounds like a lot, but its not really. All the material from PPG comes with fact sheets explaining how its is to be mixed and used, make sure you get them.
I see you are in CT, I purchased all my supplies from Service Auto in Ansonia. They were very helpfull answering any questions that I had.

Corz

honestly, i dont know where you would go to get it in northern CT.. but browse the yellow pages for parts stores and see if there are any 'auto body supplies' stores listed :cheers:

69vette66

hey all, if you use the K36 primer, Do not wet sand. The K36 contains talcom and soaks the water up causing problems down the road. We found out the hard way. Thats what my PGG reps have told us. Instead I would sand with 280 grit, then a final once over with 440 grit. at least that what I do.
Larry :cheers:

Roadster71

Larry,
Thats the first time I ever heard about not wet sanding K36. May be you didn't clean good enough or let it dry enough prior to paint. What type of problem did you have?