Hey, I'm getting ready for the interior install. It's completely gutted now. Has anyone used the role in bed lining? If so how did it work? I got a gallon kit and thought that a nice thick coat everywhere I can reach might quiet things down a little. What do you think?????????
Latter. Scott.

 

I've seen pictures from someone who did something similar a year or so back and it looked really slick. I'm not sure how much sound killing quality it will give you though. I'd think not as much as the heavy material (I think it must have lead in it or something similar) that they sell for this purpose. I'm interested in the same thing myself though as I have my interior all ripped out (mostly anyhow) and will be putting in some insulation and new carpet before it all goes back together... It wouldn't hurt to kill some sound while I'm at it.

 

don't know if this will help, but I did something similar to my '02:

mikemercury.home.att.net/sound.htm


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[Modified by Mike Mercury, 10:35 AM 5/13/2003]

 

I put it in mine. I don't know if it helped because I never drove it before putting it in (bought the car gutted). It's easy to put in, but if you put it too heavy in one coat it takes forever to dry.

 

I think it will help but not as much as it would in a metal car. Just guessing, but it is designed to dampen vibration and resonance. I don't think fiberglass resonates as much as metal. Couldn't hurt though. I'm looking at adding this material:

http://www.zeronoize.com/prod02.htm#VB-3 Composite Lead Barrier

Neoprene with a lead core. Not cheap, but seems trick. Anybody ever use it?

 

You guys crack me up! :lol: :jester

You want 10 second vettes and you are lining them with lead! or asphalt (dynamat original/hi temp mastic/ice block)!

Do a search on here... a lot of people use some air/foil combo for heat/radiant blocking. If you are looking for noise blocking, you might try some of the high dollar (well to me) dynamat. That stuff is designed for vibration and is lighter than the alternatives.

You will be adding weight, which will make you slower (if you are concerned)...

 

We just want the best of all worlds! I crack myself up sometimes too :lolg: Oh well, guess we all just need to add another 100HP to make up for the added weight:D

 

I am looking into this too, down the road of course, but I was looking on Dynamat's webpage and it gives specs for all of their products. Their dynaliner (liquid dynamat) was as good as their standard stuff, they had some higher quality stuff that just added more weight to deaden more sound.

 

:iagree: you make me chuckle.

The stuff I was looking at (so they claim) is lighter than the dynamat and works better. If you get rid of the original under carpet cheap foam/rubber crap and put in something quality. You gain better sound deadning without really adding any weight.

 

Don't know how a bedliner would deaden sound but I have a jeep and a lot of guys I know have put herculiner, etc. They all say it's noisier than running just carpet.

In my vette I just installed DampX from second skin audio. I havn't driven it yet as my interior is still out pending the install of my alarm and stereo. I will post pics soon(my digital camera is broken right now). DampX is the exact same stuff as dynamat(I've used both) but it's a whole lot cheaper.

 

to deaden vibration, the key goal is to increase mass. By doing this you reduce the harmonic frequency of a surface so low that it stops conduction sound at auduible frequencies.

That is why it is so important to use a material that will bond to the cars panels. If one just "lays" another layer on top of the vibrating surface, the original surface still vibrates as before. All the "layed" material can accomplish it to try and block the sound.

The Frost King el-cheapo material I used does have an adhesive side. So do may of the other more expensive offerings from Dynomat, Brownbread, Cascade...

I used 5 rolls of FK to line my complete C5's interior. It added 15 pounds to the car. The denser the product, the more of a dampening factor it has. So one needs to make a desision as how much added weight can be tollerated in the effort to reduce interior cabin noise. Some of the Dynomat-type products can add 60 lbs to a cars weight.

My C5 is relatively stock. I've added the Z06 titanium exhaust and gutted the pre-cats (the main cats are untouched). The point is that I didn't use a heavier-more effective material because I wasn't in an extremely loud condition to begin with... nor did I have an upgraded mega-watt stereo either.
As you can guess, the inside of my C5 is extremely quiet now. I get comments from passengers about it... that don't even know about my sound reduction project.

The foam/foil products (some are asphalt/foil) give a little of both kinds of dampenng-noise reduction. The dense foam (this is where the adhesive side is) bonds to the cars panels and dampens them. The foil backing acts to block sound and to provide some insulation from temperature sources.

I would stay away from products that use asphalt based material for their dampening layer. There have been accounts where during extremely hot days the asphalt can gas and create a pertoleum smell.
I know Cascade products don't use asphalt... they go out of their way to advertise this fact. Many others don't use asphalt based layers either.

The spray on products do work because that bond to the surface. They do not, though; have a foil backing. Many manufacturers of spray on dampeners suggest multiple layers... to build up the mass. Usually the first layer applied does not do much other than "bond". The additionally sprayed layers then start increasing the dampening factor.

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[Modified by Mike Mercury, 7:54 PM 5/13/2003]

 

Go to my website and take a look at my Insulating the Cockpit story. I detail the materials I used and where to get them. They reduced the noise in the cockpit by quite a bit and I have good heat insulation now. Here's the link.
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vettfixr/page14.htm

 

Don"t forget to insulate as much of the firewall as possible, I"m not sure how much you can actually insulate, doesn"t look like much room there to work. I insulated the floor to the rear storage, helped but the heat still transfers through the firewall, at least in my BB, good luck!

 

vettfixr; that's quite a job you did there. Looks like you got the material to lay down good; that's a major part of the project right there.

:cheers:

 

Woohoo, finally a chance to contribute something relevant and worthwhile.

Vette Magazine is doing a 3 part article on Interior Restoration for a C4. (The third part is still to come out. Vol 24, Iss 6, 7, 8 (Forthcoming)) The reason I mention this is because while restoring the interior, they have also put in sound dampening and absorbing material, Acumat. Alas, the results aren't out yet (Iss 8), but I thought I'd mention it incase it helps you out.

Go here for Acumat's website. http://www.scosche.com/accumat/

Go here to see Part 1 of the article series (Which alas only covers the ripping out part of the restoration, but should be update soon with part 2) http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/0306vet_interior_pt1/

 

Yea, I think mike has the idea. the resonance from the thin large area's like the cargo deck and back bulk head is most likely to be the source. As for weight, the 80 isn't known for their lean bodies. The can weighs about 6 pounds per gallon. Oh well, it can't hurt. Also it will look good for that couple of days till the insulation goes in. So I got that going for me.

Gotta get this done, Vette Dan's almost done with my harness bar. He's been getting lippy about auto-cross. I'm gonna feel bad about slappin him around on the course...........Not.

Thanks. Scott.

 

I like what Monty did: www.montygwilliams.com

 

What you see is a lot of pieces that were cut individually and then joined with aluminum duct tape. I made the patterns using postal wrapping paper, cutting them out and then transferring them to the insulation material. I had to use a tin snip to cut the insulation.