NHvette

OOOPPs - fixed the image tags .... sorry.

I think that Arctic blast did me some good. Last week saw me spring back into
action on my restoration. I guess if I don't need to clean the pool ....


Last time I checked in, I had wrapped up all of the replacement of the steel
in each rear corner of the frame (the notorious spot). Here's a pic of where I
left off (bottom all capped off, but inside corners still needed attention):



So, this time around, I left all the metal in place and welded a couple strips
over the affected area. The strips weld into the side rail, diff crossmember,
and the stock gusset. In retrospect, this area could have been cleaned more.
Also, my welding skills were as rusty as the frame. I'm getting better.
Here are the two corners - on the inside:




With those areas all covered up, I went on to the front end - where extra
support is often recommended. I intended to get right into gussetting the
lower control arm mounting brackets, but I was side-tracked. Here is an area
that I have seen bad (very bad) - but not that many people talk about fixing
it. Between the #1 and #2 body mounts, there is a foam rubber 'body seal'
that wedges between the frame and rocker channel. My guess is that it keeps
crap from accumulating between the two. Well, I'm fairly sure that it
definitely DOES help retain water. ARGGHHH. I will only be showing the
driver's side ... as this was worse than the passenger side. Looking at the
first two shots, the affected area looks very similar to the surrounding area:




After taking the wire brush to it for a few minutes, it becomes obvious that the
rust has taken a good toll on the frame directly below the seal:




I used a piece to cover the thinned area - overlapping the existing frame
structure.





Welded into place .... both sides.





Well - that's that. I used a fairly thin piece of stock, since I plan to put the seals
back in. So, I didn't want to build up the area too high. Also, I went back and
ground down all the welds flush with the new piece.


Now, let's start adding steel for fun. I started on the front gussets last night.
I only had time for one on each side ... so stay tuned for more fun.
The pieces I used here were cut from 1/8"x2" steel. They fit flush against
the lower control arm bracket ... and overlap the front crossmember by
about 1".

Here is the bracket before starting:



The bracket needed a small notch taken out of the side, for the gusset to fit snug:



Test fit with a clamp (looks good from my house):



Here they are welded from the top ... I will get the bottom when I tilt the
frame next.





I can't wait to get this chassis painted and start bolting stuff on .... so don't
blink - you may miss something.

:seeya


[Modified by NHvette, 6:48 PM 1/19/2004]

74 vert

Man, looks like have been really busy. :cool:

Keep up the good work. :thumbs:

What type of filler metal and welder are you using?


[Modified by 74 vert, 6:06 PM 1/19/2004]

Twin_Turbo

Looking good, are you using a stick welder? Also, how thin is that gusset? Looks to be a bit on the thin side from the pics.

The_Dude

Looks great! I'm asking this out of ignorance, not to question your methods. Will the rust under the patch continue to grow if the patch was welded over untreated metal?

NHvette

I'm currently (I love puns) using a Clarke 130 amp MIG welder
and a .035" ER70S wire. For the lighter stuff ... .025" wire.

The gussets (don't you read the text?) are cut from 1/8"x2" steel. 1/8" is
minimal for this application, but I'm not building a race car. I just want the
frame to hold up under 'regular' street use. I will be driving this car for
another 20-50 years.

Will the rusted metal continue to rust ? Only if it gets moisture, and I don't see
that as a problem. The entire inside of the box is rusty, so the area that is
doubled-up will be the least of my problems. I do not intend to get the frame
wet (very often).

I started to post this, as folks really wanted to see Norval's gussets in the
lower control arm area. So, I figured that I could at least illustrate the concept.
Now that Norval's got a digital camera, he will likely put my work to shame.
That's OK, as it will only push me harder to get better with the MIG torch.

I may do the inside gussets tonight ... given time. :seeya

greenice

Now I know what you've doing during the sub-zero days of new england

Good Work, hope to see it more pictures as it goes back together.

:cheers:

Twin_Turbo

Caught me there with my pants down :jester

NHvette

Hey Paul, good to ''see" you here. Looking forward to a cruise together this
Spring or Summer. Yeah - the garage is a bit on the cool side, but I like it that way.


TT - just pulling your chain. It does look a bit on the thin side from these
pictures. I think the slight bevel I filed into the edge is catching the flash
and looking like the thickness is 1/32 or so.

:seeya

EDIT: OK - Some people have asked "Why do you need to put gussets in
the lower control arm bracket area ?". These are prone to pulling away from
the frame and causing a potentially serious situation.

Here are pics of the passenger side bracket starting to pull away at the top:




[Modified by NHvette, 12:18 PM 1/21/2004]

70BBvert

Lookin good Dave -- by the way those foam seals are meant to block the hot air from warming up the cabin. On my car I had no rust at all on the frame, even under those seals. Got lucky I guess, the car came from S. Carolina.

Jim

NHvette

Definitely lucky, Jim.
I wish I didn't have to patch it, but happy that I did not choose to ignore it, too.

Here are pictures from last night's effort. I managed to cut and weld in the
two inner rear gussets for the lower control arm brackets. Tonight, maybe the
fronts will be done.
:seeya

norvalwilhelm

If you really want to increase the quality of the welds get rid of the flux core wire and start using gas. You need a special gas for mig welding that is argon mixed with a small percentage of carbon dioxide. We call it mig mix Gold but your supplier will have his own name. A 12 pound spool of straight .031 mig wife costs me about $12. but the gas is costly as is the regulator but that is when the welds really start to flow out.
A mig welder with flux core behaves like stick. You need gas to get the flow.

norvalwilhelm

A few more observations. Spend more time cleaning with a grinder, not a wire brush but a grinding wheel. Mig doesn't like rust or dirty metal.
Also don't pull the gun , only push. Start the weld pool and push it ahead of the gun. NO pulling allowed.

The quality of the gussets is better then the frame patch.
You are learining :cheers: :cheers:

stpman

I agree with Norval about the gas, I tried to use flux core wire once and I hated it now I run gas ans solid wire on both my Migs

Steve :steering:

NHvette

OK - I suck. :leaving:

Sadly, I AM using a 25% mix - .035" wire. Pushing it, too.

One thing that is hindering me is visibility. I have much trouble seeing what
I'm doing with the fixed shade helmet that I have. It is VERY dark. I stop
every inch or two just to check that I am still on track.

Um ... agree with the rust. The most troubling spot is the gap between the
two pieces of the crossmember. You can't get it out of there. For some reason
the flash picture REALLY accentuates the rust and dust. OK - I'll take the
advice a step further. I just bought a die grinder to get into tight places -
like these corners. I'll get that out of the box for prepping the next piece.

Norval ... One thing that I can't seem to get going is upside-down welding.
The wire seems to melt and drip into the torch shroud rather than melt into
the puddle. Any idea what I might need to correct this ? Different alloy (71) was
suggested by the guy at the gas/welding shop.

Thanks for the help. I owe you one .. or two. :cheers:


[Modified by NHvette, 3:12 PM 1/21/2004]

stpman

I had trouble seeing as well, I went out before xmas and bought and auto darkening helmet. Made all the difference.

Steve :steering:

Paul L

It can get nasty under there!

groovyjay

Good to see you picked up the inspiration again! Keep us posted. :cheers:

Twin_Turbo

I use scotch brite pads on a velcro pad adapter, it cleans much better than a wire wheel but doesn't remove metal nearly as fast as a grinding disc does. One little slip with the disc and you have a nasty problem. For surface cleaning I think the scotch brite pads are king.

adamdinat

Thanks for the update. You are making some good progress there. Your rusty pictures have been conspicuously absent this winter. :thumbs:

NHvette

Hey Don .. yeah finally back on track ... and steaming forward.
I need to drive her again. Badly.
I will throw a little party for 'opening day'.