dath

I'm wondering what peoples opinions are regarding blocking off the oil filter bypass on a 350? I was thinking that it could perhaps be a bad thing to run long term with it blocked off as if the filter were to plug up, it could cause oiling of the topend to stop. Also, wouldn't it make the pump/engine work harder to get the oil where it needs to go, especially with a high volume pump? I'm thinking that it could be the cause (for me) of my distributor continually slipping out of position when I womp the throttle from a standstill...

442olds

The only thing wrong with the block off is that you really need to keep on top of changing at least the filter, some people like to run synthetic oil longer than every 3000 miles. A filter won't clog completly, you'll first start to notice a drop in oil pressure. When you see the oil pressure drop you'll want to change the filter. But unless you have a really dirty engine this won't be a problem. In theory your oil should always be flowing through the filter unless there is a large enough pressure differential between the in and outs of the filter.

As for your distributor, you might want to check the hold down make sure it has a good arch to it so that it can apply enough force on the base of the distributor so that it can't be rotated. I don't think its anything with your oiling system thats causeing the distribotor to rotate.

Check out melling's website for all kinds of oiling issue/myths....

CA-Legal-Vette

Could you please post the melling's link? Went to Yahoo and couldn't find it.

Twin_Turbo

the bypass is for cold starting, not so much for a dirty filter. the problem is, it lets unfitlered oil past.

If you do not want unfiltered oil disable the block off and run a tall filter and preferrably one with a tough case. The problem is that on cold startup some oils are so thick that the pressure can be great enough to shear open a short style filter with weak case.

dath

Twin Turbo: Any recommendations on a specific filter for this application then? I'm assuming the run-of-the-mill Fram would not be an ideal candidate for such a setup The filter Mark installed seems pretty burly, but I would like to change it an the oil as soon as possible, then again at 500 miles, then again at 2500 miles or so. . . Wouldn't want to rip a filter open, that would make an even larger mess out of my garage than it already is

Twin_Turbo

I only use the large WIX HP6 type filters but they have a different thread than the standard spin on adapter has. Just a tall style AC Delco filter will do. When I still had the stock threaded adapter I ran a tall system 1 filter.

yellow 72

With my blocked bypass I use a System 1 filter which has a washable stainless mesh filter in an aluminum case.
This filter has an internal relief in case of total blockage, but has a much stronger spring to prevent unwanted bypass

Twin_Turbo

and if there's one sturdy case the system 1 filter has it.

For those who are wondering what it looks like: (the gold thing is a moroso sandwich adapter which replaces the stock spin on adapter and it does not have a bypass at all)

system 1 filter in pieces:

http://www.crossfire.homeip.net/twinnie/system1_1.jpg
http://www.crossfire.homeip.net/twinnie/system1_2.jpg
http://www.crossfire.homeip.net/twinnie/system1_3.jpg
http://www.crossfire.homeip.net/twinnie/system1_4.jpg
http://www.crossfire.homeip.net/twinnie/system1_5.jpg
http://www.crossfire.homeip.net/twinnie/system1_6.jpg
http://www.crossfire.homeip.net/twinnie/system1_7.jpg

Fevre

Bought a Summit filter adaptor that is sans the bypass, if your oil filter gets clogged enough to need a bypass then you might have a bigger problem than a clog oil filter.

Solid LT1

I run a Canton oil pans billet filter mount that eliminates the bypass after the welded stocker started to fail and cause an oil leak on my motor (it may interest people to know that we have seen filter mounts on production High-po motors that do NOT have a bypass valve in them, motors like LT-1, Z/28 and 375HP 396 engines.) I had a Canton/Mecca oil filter on my motor but went to a K&N synthetic media oil filter for the larger filter area. I would NOT! run a System 1 screen type filter on a street motor because screens don't properly filter chemicals (like anti-freeze) out of the engine oil like a synthetic or paper media oil filter will. I dont rev my motor real high until it has fully warmed up and use Mobil 1 15-50 synthetic motor oil in my engine.

Twin_Turbo

??? if you have anti freeze in the oil you have bigger problems than the screen filter. I've never had problems with it.

yellow 72

And what happens then, when the filter fills with this anti freeze it has removed from the oil?

stingr69

I always run them blocked. Use a NAPA Gold filter, Purolator or a WIX filter and don't rev it too much at cold startup. That is about it. If your oil pressure is getting low, it is time to change the filter. This should not happen normaly anyway but that is how the oiling system will behave if the filter is clogged for some reason.

Think about how the oiling system works on a fresh rebuild. You use the recomended moly paste on your lifters and cam, the moly paste will end up in the filter which can clog it in a few minutes if you used a lot of it. The bypass will then open allowing the oil to circulate unfiltered while your brand new engine is just beginning to break-in. Not what you intended, right?

Leave the bypass blocked at least while you break the engine in using a quality built filter. Change the oil and filter after the cam is broken in and do it again after a few hundred miles. If you are still concerned about the bypass being blocked after that, go ahead and remove the filter mount and replace it with a stocker. It is only 2 screws and no gasket.

-Mark.


P.S. - Many more problems are caused by off-shore "chromed" whiz-bang aftermarket replacement parts than blocked oil filter bypass mounts.