Polyester Fill or Primer Sealer First?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,381
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From: Lusby MD
Polyester Fill or Primer Sealer First?
My 69 body is ready to start the paint process. It was been stripped (media blasted) a few months ago and is, overall, in good shape. There are a few spots where some fibers are showing and the surface isn't too smooth so I know I need to lock them down. I've read several recent threads about polyester vs gelcoat and agree that the polyesters are a better choice. Now what I need to know is do I need to seal the area first or can I start with the poly?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
The polyesters require a primer first. Primer type varies by manufacturer, so use the primer prep recommended by the poly manufacturer. Standox, for example, requires the use of epoxy primer first as an adhesion base.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Virginia Beach Virginia
Originally Posted by 69L71
My 69 body is ready to start the paint process. It was been stripped (media blasted) a few months ago and is, overall, in good shape. There are a few spots where some fibers are showing and the surface isn't too smooth so I know I need to lock them down. I've read several recent threads about polyester vs gelcoat and agree that the polyesters are a better choice. Now what I need to know is do I need to seal the area first or can I start with the poly?
Good Luck, Marc
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,381
Likes: 15
From: Lusby MD
Two responses and two conflicting answers! LOL!
Also, is it neccessary that I use the poly on the whole car or can I get away with 'spot' applications where the fibers are showing? 85% of the car isn't that stripped that far down. The remaining 15% has ghosts of original brown primer on top of virgin, smooth, grey fiberglass.
Also, is it neccessary that I use the poly on the whole car or can I get away with 'spot' applications where the fibers are showing? 85% of the car isn't that stripped that far down. The remaining 15% has ghosts of original brown primer on top of virgin, smooth, grey fiberglass.
Last edited by 69L71; Aug 16, 2004 at 02:06 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,512
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From: Franklin IN
What ever you do don't wet sand untill you have the body sealed. If you have used ANY water(or chemicals) on that body during or since the paint was stripped make sure you let it set in the hot sun for days (two weeks is not out of reason) before you apply any paint product. Water(or chemicals) will wick in to the fiberglass. They lay dormant untill you paint it then when you take the car out in the direct sun they want to get out of the body which causes blisters in the paint. At a car show that was the biggest problem I saw with peoples paint. I have had this expirence with my wifes 79. Any questions drop me a note.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,214
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From: Casa Grande AZ
Hey Chris!
Just arrived home from a short trip and saw your email and post.
Glad to hear your back in the swing of things. My (Your) 69 is sold now but I will have another if the paint shop ever pays me back!
On the question of polyster sprayable fillers. I don't know about other brands like feather fill and the like. But the one I've been using is Z-Chrome rust Defender. It's obviously made for metal cars but works just as well on fiberglass. I've used it for years and have never used an epoxy adhesion coat with it. But you could use one if you wanted to. I've also never had an adhesion problem with it. I do dry sand the Zchrome as it is extremely easy to sand. I carry it in gallons and am not sure if it comes in quarts or not. It sounds like you don't need alot. You shouldn't do areas that don't need it so you can keep the build thickness down.
Good luck with the painting!
Just arrived home from a short trip and saw your email and post.
Glad to hear your back in the swing of things. My (Your) 69 is sold now but I will have another if the paint shop ever pays me back!
On the question of polyster sprayable fillers. I don't know about other brands like feather fill and the like. But the one I've been using is Z-Chrome rust Defender. It's obviously made for metal cars but works just as well on fiberglass. I've used it for years and have never used an epoxy adhesion coat with it. But you could use one if you wanted to. I've also never had an adhesion problem with it. I do dry sand the Zchrome as it is extremely easy to sand. I carry it in gallons and am not sure if it comes in quarts or not. It sounds like you don't need alot. You shouldn't do areas that don't need it so you can keep the build thickness down.
Good luck with the painting!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,381
Likes: 15
From: Lusby MD
Larry:
Welcome back. Thanks for the comments!
Yeah. I knew you sold the 69. I got an email a few months back from the new owner. You go through cars faster than I do. And that saying something!!!!
So I think I understand, from the comments here and Lars' "Corvette Body & Paint Repair Basics", to plan on the following sequence.....
My main issue was dealing with the rough spots...
Now I need to decide what I do about guns. I have a line on a nice Sharpe Platinum LV which should fit my compressor output nicely and still give me HVLP capability, but I still need a primer gun.
I need to get busy before the weather starts turning too chilly!
Welcome back. Thanks for the comments!
Yeah. I knew you sold the 69. I got an email a few months back from the new owner. You go through cars faster than I do. And that saying something!!!!
So I think I understand, from the comments here and Lars' "Corvette Body & Paint Repair Basics", to plan on the following sequence.....
My main issue was dealing with the rough spots...
Now I need to decide what I do about guns. I have a line on a nice Sharpe Platinum LV which should fit my compressor output nicely and still give me HVLP capability, but I still need a primer gun.
I need to get busy before the weather starts turning too chilly!
