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I finally got the correct temp sending unit installed and let the car warm up for about 5 minutes, then put it on the road for another 15 minutes and the gauge barely moves. Same indications that the original sending unit was giving me. It does move, but barely. The replacement sending unit came from Lectric Limited and looks exactly like the original unit. Before all of this, I took the electrical connector off the sending unit and watched the gauge peg low. I then touched the block with the connector and watched the gauge peg high. So I figured the gauge was working and the prob was the sending unit.
No, not HOT, but after 15 minutes, I expected the gauge to be more than 110. Today was cool outside, right around 60 degrees F and when I opened the hood, it wasn't hot, but it's a SB. Maybe I should have given it another 15 minutes.
I was hoping for instant results. However, if it went right to 200, I would have had a good gauge and a hot block. I guess that's worse. Maybe I'm a dope.
My car has the original sender I believe. It runs well under the first mark when the weather is less than 90 degF. I have a 160 Deg thermostat. With the AC on and in traffic in the summer it MAY get to 200 Deg.. but cools right back to 170 when I get moving.
I've had the same problem, but on the other end of the spectrum. Gauge would read OK, then slowly creep up until it was pegged. Thinking I had an overheating problem, changed/troubleshot everything I could think of to no avail. Also changed to the Lectric Limited "correct" sender...same behavior.
Finally gave up and installed a mechanical guage. Now the car runs near 200 all day long.
I suspect your gauge, not the sending unit, is at fault. I remember seeing an ad somewhere on this forum for a guy who re-calibrates the original gauge if you send it to him along with the sender.
Unfortunately, I think you're right. I thought I troubleshot the gauge with my earlier tests. Looking back, that didn't test the calibration, just that the wires to the gauge sent a signal. Well, I probably didn't need to replace the sending unit, however, it certainly was easier than pulling the gauge out.
Where do I start to pull the gauge out? Is this a 5, 10 or 50 hour job?
I think removing the gauge is fairly straightforward. Someone else here should be able to elaborate. I left my original gauge in place and remote-mounted the mechanical.
Remove the gauge bezal to get to the back of the gauges. I remove the passenger dash panel to help. Hardest part is getting to the 2 nuts on the studs under the console. Watch the lamps wires,all gray, and oil line to the oil gauge.
Gary