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C3 Power Brake Booster Removal

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Old 11-24-2004, 07:08 AM
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Frank O'Hara
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Default C3 Power Brake Booster Removal

I'm in the process of detailing my engine compartment on my 73 L82 convertible. I'm trying to replace the power brake booster - and I'm having a tough time accessing the top left nut under the dashboard. Is there a trick here ? do I need to remove the instrument cluster ? Thanks
Old 11-24-2004, 07:17 AM
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mrvette
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Yes, unless you are a maschocist, (sp?), or you need 'special tool' number J1005.534,

seriously it's a lot easier to just remove the speedo tach....

now on my car, after dropping the steering column down, and getting that panel out, I decided to rewire the panel completely with a molex plug on the back for all the lights,/electricals, put in an electronic tach from a 75-7 vette, and with that rewiring made the whole thing simple to work with....


GENE
Old 11-24-2004, 07:46 AM
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Edzred72
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Just took mine out last weekend so this nightmare is fresh in my mind!
I found that lowering the steering column and pulling the drivers dash pad out a few inches helped tremendously. That, a universal, a swivel head socket wrench and a deep well socket where what I used.
Eddie
Old 11-24-2004, 08:06 AM
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markdtn
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Originally Posted by Silvr77
I found that lowering the steering column and pulling the drivers dash pad out a few inches helped tremendously. That, a universal, a swivel head socket wrench and a deep well socket where what I used.
A wobble socket extension is handy too.
Old 11-24-2004, 08:39 AM
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GATOR454
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I took mine off without removing the dash. It took quite a toll on my knuckles. Ironically the dash is now out.

I have a question. There is an access panel in the wiper conpartment right above the booster. If I remember correctly it looked like 4 bolts and 2 rivets holding it on. Does this panel give you access to the upper booster bolts. If I were at home I would just go out and look (something I've been meaning to do) but I'm not at home now.
Old 11-24-2004, 08:44 AM
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ram82fire
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1/4 inch drive air ratchet plus extensions and universal joint does the trick . Wrap the u joint with a couple of turns of tape , this allows for better aiming so to speak !


gman
Old 11-24-2004, 09:04 AM
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mandm1200
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I just used a 1/4" socket set and a universal. I do not remember which nut it was but I was only able to get one click of the rachet at a time. That was a real pain as it very unconfortable down there. Even before turning the first nut I knew the seat had to be removed.
Wouldn't it be nice if we could get Lance Burton or some other magician to throw a towel over the old one, say a couple of words, and remove the towel and the new one was there!
Old 11-24-2004, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by GATOR454
I took mine off without removing the dash. It took quite a toll on my knuckles. Ironically the dash is now out.

I have a question. There is an access panel in the wiper conpartment right above the booster. If I remember correctly it looked like 4 bolts and 2 rivets holding it on. Does this panel give you access to the upper booster bolts. If I were at home I would just go out and look (something I've been meaning to do) but I'm not at home now.

It LOOKS like an access panel but it really is a backing plate to help support the pedal assembly. I removed it thinking I would get to that top left bolt.

It does show it in the AIM but not sure what page. The rivets hold the plate to the fibreglass and the bolts undo the top of the pedal assembly.

Cheers,

Pete
Old 11-24-2004, 09:10 AM
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06

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Originally Posted by Frank O'Hara
I'm in the process of detailing my engine compartment on my 73 L82 convertible. I'm trying to replace the power brake booster - and I'm having a tough time accessing the top left nut under the dashboard. Is there a trick here ? do I need to remove the instrument cluster ? Thanks
The only trick is small hands, small sockets and patience. Use a
1/4 inch drive socket with lots of extensions and universals. Remove seat and wheel to give you room to move. Do this one FIRST as the others are easy.

Cheers,

Pete
Old 11-24-2004, 10:02 AM
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Red73
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I used a 1/4" socket with universals. I had a harder time putting the clip back on the pin that attachs the rod from the brake booster to the brake pedal.

Last edited by Red73; 11-24-2004 at 10:41 AM.
Old 11-24-2004, 10:15 AM
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mandm1200
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Originally Posted by Red73
I used a 1/4" socket with universals. I had a harder time putting the clip back on the pin that attachs the rod from the brake booster to the brake petal.
I have to agree with you on the clip for the brake pedal. It was dark by the time I finally got to the clip. The batteries in my flash light were going dead and I needed the car for the next day. It must have taken a dozens tries. About 45 minutes later I got thing on. I wonder if there is some sort of special tool to install it. I would like to know what a garage would charge in labor for this job or would they say from previuos experience that they do not due that type of work.
Old 11-24-2004, 01:48 PM
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I just did this on my 73 a week ago and I honestly don't understand what all the fuss is about.
I had heard all the horror stories about the infamous "top left nut" so I put off doing this part of my project for as long as possible.
When I finally got up the nerve to crawl under the dash I decided to get that top left nut off first to get the hardest one out of the way.
I lef the driver's side dash and the steering collum in place, but I removed the steering wheel for better access.
I had two long 3/8" drive extensions, a 3/8" swivel and a 9/16" deep socket and had that nut off in just a few minutes.
All in all it took about 1 1/2 - 2 hours to change my booster, and a good majority of that time was spent trying to get that damm clip back on.
Old 11-24-2004, 01:57 PM
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LOTAHP
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with Kevin73. I just took the seat out so it was more comfortable if you can call it that. But I had no problems and did not have to lower this and remove that. In fact that is my summer project. New booster, master cylinder and to relocate the p/valve & line-lock directly under the master cylinder with a bracket coming off the 2 bolts there.
Old 02-08-2015, 09:03 PM
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sixbytwo
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Originally Posted by stingry

It LOOKS like an access panel but it really is a backing plate to help support the pedal assembly. I removed it thinking I would get to that top left bolt.

It does show it in the AIM but not sure what page. The rivets hold the plate to the fibreglass and the bolts undo the top of the pedal assembly.

Cheers,

Pete
Unfortunately that access panel goes nowhere .... I removed mine and found.......solid fiberglass!!! It most be supporting something under the dash
Old 01-16-2019, 10:51 AM
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hester1947
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Hello Edzred72 I did the same thing by dropping the steering column and pulling the Drivers side Dashboard back a little.
I used the 14.mm or 9/16 Socket with an extension of 3.ft long which was more than enough length.

You also mention that you installed a 75 Corvette Tachometer which is Electric.
I have a question will the 75 stock Tachometer install in a 73 Corvette Tachometer location, with out modifications?
I'm doing an LS Swap and I need to do something to get the Tachometer going. The original Tachometer was driven off of t
he Distributor but the LS3 Engine that i'm installing has an electric Tachometer.
Any input will help Thanks
Old 01-16-2019, 11:36 AM
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BLUE1972
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I did mine, 71, 5 speed ---- 2 summers ago without taking the dash out.

Pulled the seat , dropped the A/C vent and used a few extensions ( one wobble) on my 1/4 " drive Milwaukee Electric Ratchet.

It was a real PIA.

Did my 85 last summer - makes the 71 feel like a walk in the park ….

Last edited by BLUE1972; 01-16-2019 at 11:38 AM.

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