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New price 18000
I have decided to sell my 72 coupe after kicking it around for at least two years. I just don't drive it, its been a little over 1000 miles since a frame off. It is a base with automatic trans., p/s, p/b, am/fm stereo (still works), rear window defroster, sunflower yellow (originally warbonnet yellow), leather deluxe interior, shoulder belts.
It has the original trans. in the car, the engine was lost prior to me getting it and was replaced with a short block, I have the heads that Im pretty sure came with the original engine at least the date codes are correct for the car.
It has a new gm engine I installed with a small cam, I installed a 373 rear gear but still have the 323 gear rear that came in the car in the original center section.
I did the frame off here at my house over six years or so and it has been running for around six years, it has Al Knoch interior I installed koolmat inside the car under the carpet and inside the door panels. Everything was taken out of the car the door skins removed and reinstalled after the door shells were sandblasted and painted, the windshield frame was repaired and also sandblasted and painted, the birdcage was repaired at the rear using parts from a 74, basically the only thing that was not removed/touched during the frame off was the dimmer switch ( I forgot to remove it when it was taken apart). The frame had some rot in it also and it was replaced with parts from the 74 also. I have all the pictures showing what was done and how.
The a/c compressor has not been installed, the a/c condenser has not been installed and the spare tire tub has not been repaired or reinstalled. All the vacuum stuff worked when it was put back together and should still work as far as I know, I go the wiper door back together working correctly then pulled the levers to block off the vacuum and turned the electric switch off to keep the wipers from coming on and have not messed with them since.
A while back the radiator started leaking at the drain **** but stopped and I have not had it out or messed with it since. Im going to post a few pictures if any more are wanted please ask.
To keep scammers at bay I want to do a deal in person and have the money/check drawn from a local bank or go thru someone who handles transactions like this. car is located in Roanoke, Virginia 24012
Last edited by wills670; 08-30-2017 at 06:50 AM.
Reason: Added location
Price lowered to 19500 should make some a very good car at this price and with the reduced price be able to get the a/c going, the spare tire tub back on and a new radiator installed.
Heres a more in-depth history/ my story on the car. Have not really got a lot of hits on the car so I figured I would post what I have done to the car and ask opinions if my pricing was that far off or just get a general idea on the seemly lack of interest in the car.
I purchased this car from a dealer just outside Fort Wayne Indiana in 2004 to repair and drive as I went, well I ended up having a change of plans after I got it here and found a rusted out brake line thats when the decision was made to do a frame off. I took the car apart and found rust in the frame and birdcage. The frame and birdcage was repaired as you can see in the pictures I sand blasted the stuff here, got a 74 vette for a parts car and used the section of fame to repair mine. If you look at the pictures I cut the frame and inserted a sleeve into the ft. section and welded the butt joint and welded it with drilled holes both sections of the frame. At the rear of the frame I saved the section that has the serial number stamped into it. I separated the two frame sections and cut them in two different places on the top section and the bottom section so I could stagger the welds to make a stronger repair. If you note also I cut the section below the rear end housing opening it up and the section behind the rear end cross member also so I could get inside the frame to sandblast it also. I removed the end places at the rear kickup areas on the new section of framing the two supports that hooks up the reared support to the side frame rails (two metal reinforcements the run at about a 45 degree angle) and sandblasted, premiered and painted them. After the frame was complete I took it to a frame shop and had it checked to make sure everything was still straight and it was 3/32 off so that was plenty good.
I sandblasted and painted all the suspension parts, replaced the bushings with poly bushings and fitted them to provide clearance for the metal inserts to float inside the poly bushings and applied the silicone grease for the poly bushings. I installed gulstrand rear toe adjusters as you can see in a couple of the pictures, this takes place of shims for adjusting the toe on the rear. I installed vette brake products adjustable strut rods. I rebuilt the rear trailing arms and used timken bearings. All new fuel and brake lines metal and rubber. The brakes were completely rebuilt/replaced and silicone fluid was used. I used delco parts where I could find them and tried to repl. stuff with the gm stamping/stencling on the hoses and stuff while I was at it. On the body parts chrome door handles, emblems and stuff I purchased gm replacement parts. I figured out early in the game the knockoff parts just did not fit correctly. If you notice on one of the pictures it shows a level/pull handle on the hood hinge this is a quick release hood hinge I found and installed the purpose for this hood hinge is to remove the hood check strap/bracket and get one guy on the other side to help, all the handle and the hood shifts towards the rear and unlatches and simply pull the other side out of the right hinge/hole. All paint on the frame and suspension parts was oil based rustolilem, I do not like powder coating so I choose to use oil based paint. The paint on the car is ppg base coat clear coat. The black on the car is gelcoat and its a pain to work with (just like spay on plastic).
The heater box was taken completely apart and the metal doors and various sections of the heater box were taken apart, sandblasted, repaired if needed and then reinstalled with rivets, the heater core was replaced. All the vacuum hoses were replaced with new. The wiring harness was laid out and inspected from ft. to rear and any place found that needed repair was done and rewrapped with new tape. If you notice in the pictures you can see the t tops shells were taken apart I took them apart and cleaned out the rusted out metal tabs/nut holders fabricated new ones and reinstalled them then rebonded the tops to the frames. I also took the door skins off and repaired see rust on the frames and then sandblasted and painted them and rebounded the skins back to the frames.
As you can see I cut the top of the fenders to get to the windshield frame, inspect, sandblast and repair any places found then repainted it and put the top of the fenders back on. Also the rear of the birdcage/rear body supports were also replaced, sandblasted and painted. The headlight bar was taken out of the car sandblasted and painted then reinstalled, the headlights were completely taken apart and rebuilt. Also the wiper arms were missing when I got the car and I went to the trouble of finding the 68 to 73 models that were correct of the car.The headlight bezels were also replaced with the correct ones, someone had replaced them with fiberglass ones and I found the metal ones to put back on the car, I also figured out you have to do the body work with the metal bezels installed or your body lines goes off. I also figured out you do all body work with all four tires on the ground and never pick up the car on the two post lift to do any body work near where body panels meet with it up in the air. All body work was done with gaskets in place to make sure the gaps did not change after I painted it I put the seals and stuff back on the car. This car has some very clean body lines. It does have two places one on the hood surround a place about 3/4 on an inch with a hairline crack in the paint and one at the passengers door where the door lock is same thing just a very small hairline crack in the paint. You can see where the headlight bar aluminum rivets were corroded on the inside and then sanded down but after time the places showed up in the paint nothing major by any means but its there. The aluminum rivets were replaced with new ones when the headlight bar was out but the damage was already done but the old rivets oxidizing and then making places in the ft. surround. A lot of people look of this as a sign the original ft. end is still on the car. Around 1974 they stopped using the rivets so you don’t see this on anything after 74. The radiators support and the radiator/bumper crossmember were replaced with new ones. The body work was done to the oem bumpers then they were sent off to a chrome shop to be rechromed.
I installed koolmat inside the car and inside the door panels. I used al Knoch interior parts and replaced the seat belts with new after market ones they function the same as oem but the light switches for the fasten seat belt wont work because the new parts did not come with the switches they fit under the seat and look just like oem belts but lack the electric switches that make the fasten safety belt lights function (you can’t get the belts with the switches they are not made at least when the car was done there were not being made).
I rebuilt the trans. and its the original one to the car, I rebuilt two rear axles one 323 gear and one 373 gear the 373 gear is in the car now and it has a heavy duty rear end cover. I replaced the engine with a new one, the old original engine was not in the car, the date correct heads, intake and carb. were with the car. The am/fm stereo radio is still working, the rear window defroster is there and still works, the headlight vacuum system works as it should. I go the wiper door working when I put the car together and then turned off the electric part and the vacuum system to the door so the wipers would not be turned on unless I turned the switches back to the operations position but I have not tried it since getting it working. The wiper doors are very temperamental and the wiper arms and blades are low profile to have the proper clearance for the wiper door so any timing issues could result in tore off wiper arms, metal squirters and possible damage to the wiper door stainless trim on top of the door so I choose not to mess with it. To give you a little more idea on the pains I went thru on this car on an a/c car the rear vents behind the rear glass are open with grill to drain water and in non a/c cars the bottom section of the area is a series of doors and vacuum pots so the “astro ventatlion” would work on a/c cars this section of doors and vacuum pots were eliminated and blocked off with metal plates, well these metal plates rusted out over time and I went to the trouble of looking for over a year for a good set of block off plates from a Texas car to replace the ones that were in the car.
I have not installed the a/c compressor, the a/c condenser or the spare tire tub. The spare tire tub will need to be refurbished before it is put back on the car. I picked a corvette because I always liked the rear bumpers and I figured it would be about the only car I could get my money back out of the purchase price of the car and the parts but I would never recover the hours of labor in the car. I am selling it because it’s just sitting and I have moved onto camping and going on vacations with the wife. I still like the car but I just don’t drive it, i know I will never do another one and I did this car to keep but as I get older I have figured out it’s other things I would rather do than tinker with cars. I am a fleet mechanic for a major utility company and after 18 years I’ve had about enough. I still enjoy doing different things but woking on cars is not on the top of my list, my knees are starting to give trouble and I like to do different things not just work on cars/equipment.
Looks like a lot of hard work was put in, car came out very nice from pics. Very reasonable pricing GLWS
I am not in the market now but would you happen to know about the wheels on car in before pic? Any info appreciated. Thanks.
Greg
Looks like a lot of hard work was put in, car came out very nice from pics. Very reasonable pricing GLWS
I am not in the market now but would you happen to know about the wheels on car in before pic? Any info appreciated. Thanks.
Greg
Thanks for the compliments.
I looked at the wheels today and heres some numbers. They have patent number 3329468 cast into them, they are 15x7.5 and they also have FDI INC. cast into them also. I have all four of them I removed from the car but the center caps were in rough shape I think I still have all four center caps but they aren't much to look at.
Your car is a great car for the price! Ask the moderator to change your title to reflect your new price and I think you will get more action. Not many nicer for under $20.
I've owned two C3 Vettes in the past 21 years......Your price is really good..A lot of people get caught up in these cars over matching numbers...I can see that up to a point.....Maybe the big block cars or the split window or L--88 etc.etc..
But, I have seen basket cases for 15-16K for a standard vette just because it's matching numbers.....Your car is a great value in my opinion.....The motor you have in your car now probably out performs the stock one..
Be patient, I think your asking price is very fair for the condition of it..
Your car is a great car for the price! Ask the moderator to change your title to reflect your new price and I think you will get more action. Not many nicer for under $20.
Thanks for the compliments. And The price and header has been changed.
Wow you cant beat that for the money it costs a fortune to do what you did not to mention all the time!
Sounds like you went over all the "little' stuff that many gloss over this sounds like something a guy could use for yrs and yrs nothing like hopping into a "new" old Vette.
Should sell fast for under 20k
Amazes me how These bring way less money than a pony car
If it was the original warbonnet yellow repaint, I would ****** this up in a heartbeat, miss my WB 72. Excellent work on the car, surprised someone hasn't picked it up already.
If it was the original warbonnet yellow repaint, I would ****** this up in a heartbeat, miss my WB 72. Excellent work on the car, surprised someone hasn't picked it up already.
Thanks.... I am surprised myself but it not eating anything so it will stay around a while longer. A lot of low ball offers but no offers to make me give it up. I built this car to keep for the long run but my interest has faded but not enough to let it go for less.
04-26-2017, 01:42 AM
1972 coupe f/s
